2018/07/17 – Germany – The Mosel through Zell

Tuesday & Wednesday 17  – 18 July

Topped up with gas and food which took a while and along the way we came across the castle (The Schloss Lieser) we saw from the other side of the Mosel.  It is the most striking building in this village and looks very modern with walls of glass and windows facing onto the river.   The village is stunning and is certainly worth a walk around.

Our campsite for two nights: Stellplatz im Moselvorland, Losnich – GPS N49.975140   E7.043320

It is well into the afternoon so our hope of finding a waterfront spot diminish but here there were a few shady spots left on the waterfront and we were within five minutes of grabbing one of the last ones.  We opted to move to the back row where some large trees gave us shade for the rest of the afternoon and we still had views of the river.

Unusual shaped houses in Losnich

Enjoyed a great rump steak and a good red on the Cadac (all from Lidl!) until the sun left the sky at about 10.15pm.

Morning brought with it another beautiful sunny and hot day so found a shady spot at the front and after a long walk through this village relaxed and read for the rest of the day.

Beautiful lines in the vineyards

Quaint village and buildings with lots of Weingut’s offering wine tasting but little else.  The only shop in town (bakery with a couple of other items) was open from 7am to 11am only.  Beautiful view across the river and vineyards enjoyed by a constant line of cyclists heading in all directions – very relaxing.

Thursday & Friday 19 & 20 July

Our campsite for two nights:  Moselvorgelande Enkirch – GPS N49.983631    E7.121740

It is getting hotter by the day and as we have travelled the last 15 months in much cooler weather, we are struggling to stay cool now.  The temperatures are now in the mid thirties so our choice of overnight sites rely mostly on the ability to park in the shade somewhere.

This is a large Stellplatz and while there were a couple of front row riverfront spots, opted to tuck in under some massive trees where we had shade all day.  No biking over these two days as it was just too hot.

We opted for the shade but the Germans are in the 34 degree heat

Not a very interesting village but had a bottle shop which was also the villages supermarket, variety store and post office.   A small bakery and fruit shop uptown filled all the gaps for everything else we needed.

Struggled at first with the hard crusty bread rolls but are now finding we would not go back to the soft ones we have back home.  Look forward to these for lunch each day.  Most stellplatz’s have a daily bread service and it is amusing watching the queues form around the bakers truck each morning. They also have the equivalent of a Mr Whippy – an Italian ice cream vendor – that comes around twice daily and it gets as much attention -if not more – than the bread man.  The Europeans really love their ice cream!

Met Ted and Desley here from Tamborine Mountain in Queensland in the late afternoon and spent some really wonderful hours until late catching up with news of their travels and sharing some of ours.  So refreshing hearing the Aussie accent again as it is not often we run into Aussies particularly so close to our own back yard.

Ted and Desley leaving for Calais on their way home to Australia

Continued the conversation next morning and soon it was lunchtime before we knew it.  The Camping Fuhrer came round to collect the rent so made a quick decision to stay on – the shade was just too good to leave!

Had another BBQ on the Cadac – such a wonderful compact and very versatile friend now.

Saturday 21st July

The stellplatz (motorhomes only) are now filling quite early as it is the summer holidays and we are finding it more difficult to find good spots now.   Many of the camping areas (tents and caravans) are already filled to capacity with little more than room to swing a cat.  The tents are like small houses – so glad we do not have to camp in these sites.

We also have the advantage of not needing electricity so often find good spots in the unpowered areas.  Our solar panels are magic and we cannot understand why so many Mohos do not have them. 

Our campsite for one night:  Moselufer, Reil – GPS N50.026272   E7.14530

Another great spot where we stayed in back in October – so just had to revisit.  One of the best bike rides we have experienced which over 25 kms takes you through vineyards now covered in lush green leaves heavy with bunches of grapes.   We pass by a tractor towing a covered wagon where tourists occupy fresh air (air conditioned) seats and are taken for a vineyard tour and up to the local castle high on the hill. 

Nice architecture in Reil

The bikeway is just wide enough for the tractor so cyclists move to the side to let it pass.  The trail meanders through the hills providing splendid river views.  We passed by several villages including the fairytale village of Briedel and finally ending up at Zell.  

Stopped in a riverfront Weingut (wine bar) and sampled a cool Mosel Reisling before heading back.

Old photos in the Weingut

The local Imbiss (snack bar) at the campsite was in full swing so joined in with the crowd which became more intimate when a storm hit and we all huddled in a small covered area for a couple of hours.  Had intended to eat there but the vendor closed early as we were pretty much water logged with no room to eat.  Watched sodden bike riders pass by, happy not to have been caught in this storm.

Sunday & Monday 22 & 23rd July

Stopped in at Zell Barl where there is a massive commercial shopping area with every conceivable store you would want.  Sent the driver off to buy things on the men’s shopping list while I stocked up on the eats and drinks.

Our campsite for two nights:  An Der Fussgangerbrucke, Zell – GPS N50.029400   E7.177740

We visited this village by bike on the previous day so just had to spend more time here.

The village is on both sides of the river and the campsite was right at the entrance to the pedestrian bridge leading to Old Town on the other side. 

Welcome to Zell – Black Cat Wein

Just an amazing little place where the buildings on the river were mostly privately owned,  colourful three storey Bavarian style homes and tucked away behind these, the Main Street was a market street with numerous restaurants and quaint little shops.   

Street art where we stopped for a Riesling on one of our cycle trips near Zell

Strolled up and down and took in the atmosphere, stopping at an Imbiss on the river for a cool ale.

Laneways produce all sorts of surprises

The stellplatz is on the outskirts of the camping area where the summer crowd were packed in like sardines. 

Zell still had a Maypole standing

Lovely view across to Old Town Zell from the Stellplatz but a long walk to the facilities which were on the far end of the campsite about 800m away.  We were not lucky enough to snag one of the shady spots here so felt the heat of the afternoon sun.