Thursday 15th February
Still drizzling when we left Sounion. Decided to have a few relaxing days on the beach with no mountain climbing, extra long walks or visits to archaeological sites planned – give the sore knees and feet time to recover.
We have found in Greece that the tolls are not based on the total distance travelled like Italy where you get a ticket on entry to a tollway and pay on exit. Here you pay a standard fee from one toll station to the next where distances between each can vary substantially. If you are unlucky enough to choose to get off after a couple of kms, then you pay the same fee.
Found it difficult to get NAVIE to stay away from the toll roads to our next destination but found a route that only required 2kms travelling along the tollway. Took a chance and yes – 1.5kms along we hit a toll station and paid a hefty €8.20 to travel only another 0.5 kms – ugh!
Our campsite for tonight: Porto Rafti GPS 37.8918N – 24.0246E
Just what the doctor ordered, a quiet beachfront parking area with magic views (though still drizzling) with a couple of shops, a bakery and tavernas (none of which are open).
Beside the campsite is a fenced in beach volleyball court, which hasn’t been used in a long time.
Lots of locals came here during the day to just sit and enjoy the views while others braved the cold and rain with some beach walking. The town is only a couple of kms away, but we opted not to explore but sit and read and relax in the warmth of our Ziggy.
The never ending pretty line of lights across the bay during the night showed how populated the seaside villages were.
Friday 16th February
Avoided the tollways today and travelled all the way along the coast line. Roads were really good even though our Collins Map Book showed them as very minor roads.
Our campsite for tonight: Agioi Apostoloi, GPS 38.2944N – 23.8970E
This is a really beautiful little seaside village with lots of tavernas and shops and a great little Marina.
The parking area is well done and well lit with lovely gardens and palm trees lining the boardwalk and the short walk to town. Today is really cold and windy (just managing to get into double figures) with the sun only peeking out very occasionally.
The waves lapping up against the boardwalk today are very agitated and it amazes me to see the locals out swimming in this cold unfriendly washing machine like sea.
A really beautiful village and worth a night or two here.
Saturday 17th February
Again travelling along the coast road, we passed over some beautiful coastal mountainsides with endless views across the sea to more of the islands on the Greek coast.
Sadly we have run out of fresh oranges which were so plentiful on the other coast. Have been spoiled with freshly squeezed orange juice for breakfast each day and then more with the vodka in the evening. Have not seen any roadside stalls for days now and the orange trees are few and far between here.
We have seen so many unfinished concrete two storey dwellings all over Greece. Just the concrete frames and a concrete internal spiral staircase and nothing else. These have been abandoned for a long time with no sign of ever being completed.
Our campsite for tonight: Drosia, 38.4828 – 23.5189
A couple of kms from Drosia, this campsite again is absolute waterfront with a taverna and small fishing fleet in the Marina. We took a walk along the beach and found very little sign of life. Quite a few very large homes on large blocks of sea front land, all with high fences and imposing gates but very few looked occupied. More also of the concrete unfinished structures.
The taverna was packed from lunchtime until dark and the aromas coming from there were mouth- watering. We walked past several times but there was standing room only so left the locals in peace and retreated to Ziggy for some of last night’s leftovers 😋
Sunday 18th February
Sunshine for the first time in days but still a cool 11 degrees (inside Ziggy) when we woke up. Looked outside at 6.30 am to see some locals right in front of us fishing – if it was 11 inside – wonder what it was outside?
Took toll road as couldn’t find easy way to avoid this – cost €9.60 X 2 for approx 40km between toll gates.
Our campsite for tonight: Kaktis – GPS 38.7083N 23.0630E
Didn’t take photos as my driver forgot his camera but the campsite was again a parking area adjacent to a Marina on the waterfront. Very busy little village with lots of waterfront restaurants.
Weather has been overcast with very little sun and again cold. Enjoyed a half hour sitting on the Marina watching the fishing boats come in and then took a long walk along the seafront.
(No photo for Kaktis as the weather was kaktis)
Monday 19th February
Lots of activity this morning as the car park became packed with locals and tables and chairs were being set around us – so thought it was time to move on. Lots of families with kids flying kites everywhere. Thought it must be a special day.
Couldn’t find any way of avoiding the toll roads today. Our first choice of campsite at Almiriou (39.2085. 22.8221) was very remote – beautiful waterfront views, 2 kms of beach and great places to park but no one was anywhere to be seen and it pretty much looked deserted. Decided to move on.
Volos was our next choice where there were three places to choose from. This was an industrial city and soon we wished we had opted to head west and inland instead of this side.
What a nightmare for my driver and Ziggy. Our first stop was in the heart of the city and looked very unsafe so onto our next stop to the other side of the town.
People and families and cars were everywhere and it didn’t take long to guess today was a special holiday. Double and triple parked cars made it impossible for Ziggy to get through so after a few nine point turns we headed out of town. The last spot not far from here was on the beach but again all the tavernas were packed and any chance of parking were impossible.
Our campsite for tonight: Kala Nera, GPS 39.4038N 21.6323E
So happy to be away from here and as it was getting late headed for the next available camp spot.
This part of Greece is not our favourite as it is very industrial but here we finally came to rest at a great little waterfront spot with only a couple of spare spots. It was again raining slightly and our walk only confirmed that today was a holiday as the restaurants were again packed and dads were flying kites on the beach with the kids.
Probably the most boring post we have done – we have had nothing but rain, rain and more rain – not good for photography
I was assured by a local that the weather will improve in10 days – apparently it will feel like a UK summer …. oh that will be more rain then!
We stayed at Porto Rafti on the 20th. In the morning they were playing a form of pad, which is like short tennis with hard bats.
Judging by your lack of enthusiasm for this coast, I think we will head inland when we finally move north.