2018/04/25 – Croatia – Murter to Split to Opuzen

Wednesday 25th Thursday 26th April

Had received some photos from Martina and Ralf about the campsite they are staying in which looked amazing so headed there, though not expecting them to still be there.

Our campsite for two nights:  Camp Slanica, Murter – GPS 43.816830N   15.576950E

Quite a narrow road leading to the campsite but fell in love with it as soon as we arrived.   It is a mid size campsite (some larger sites have around 3000 camping, motorhome, tent and caravan sites) with the motorhomes sites getting prime seafront pitches.

Soon found Martina and Ralf only a few Mohos behind us so continued where we left off in Seline.    Took the bikes off the rack for the first time in months and we all headed to town for dinner.  Martina had discovered this fish restaurant on an earlier bike ride so booked us all in for 7pm.  Had a super night with absolutely delicious fresh fish – though we were surprised at the cost.  Lesson learned – ask the price before ordering the fish. 

Time to head the couple of kms home (in the dark).  Three of the four of us took it easily in their stride, while this little navigator struggled and wobbled all the way home – had not experienced riding in the dark before, even though our lights were excellent, I still struggled and sadly walked my bike home for the last few minutes.  Ended the night in our Moho with a reasonable bottle of New Zealand Sav Blanc and finally got to bed sometime much much later.

Not an early start next morning for any of us and we enjoyed a late breakfast, then lunch just reading, relaxing and finally mid afternoon hitting the bikes again for a couple of hours before dinner.  We caught up with some fishermen who donned wet suits and showed us some interesting sea urchins they had caught and would sell to the markets at around €70/  kg. 

The campsite started filling up quickly after lunch.  The activity on the water intensified with a huge number of sailing boats in full sail passing by us and we watched fishing boats bringing in their nets. 

Dressed for dinner in our best shorts and headed for Chateau de Ralf de Martina for a German BBQ feast.   Had the best meal and was introduced to “sundowners” (champagne and grapefruit syrup) and sheep feta cheese (Scharf Kase) which was wrapped in alfoil with shallots and tomato and secret herbs and the best baked potatoes we have ever tasted. 

Ate like kings and finally waddled home (only  three doors up)  for a late coffee before hitting the hay.

Friday 27th April

Said our goodbyes, though expecting we will run into each other again before leaving Croatia.

Our campsite for tonight Trogir – GPS 43.511560N   16.246774E

Not a huge number of camp sites to choose from and headed for one on the island (Park4nite App) which was just a short downhill walk to the Old Town.   The site was a bit of a shock as it was fully overgrown with grass and the entrance was so narrow and on an uphill hairpin bend.  Didn’t stay there but right next door on the high side is a huge carpark where the boom gates were locked open so we ventured in and looked for a pay station.  Appears that this has not been operational for a while so took advantage, parked  and headed into town.

Magic town set on a fabulous harbour full of yachts and massive cruisers owned no doubt by the rich and famous.  The Old Town though only small is considered to be one of the best preserved Romanesque-Gothic towns in Central Europe (got that straight out of the brochure!) and was a real treat and just so interesting with its old castle and fortress right on the point – another UNESCO site.

Can’t believe how hot it has become so quickly and soon we found a very shady place to sit and have “our must have local beer” and watch the passing parade.  There were many shady outdoor restaurants on the harbourfront to choose from.

Came back to Ziggy which was now in the shade (very grateful for that) and had a calm peaceful night.

Saturday 28th and Sunday 29th April

Our campsite for two nights:  Camping Stobrec, Split – GPS 43.504169N   16.525829E

Wow what a great place.  Has won many awards for being the best set up campsite over many years.  Takes around 150 campers with the pitches being large and shady and some facing directly onto the white pebbled beach – still can’t get used to rocks on the beach but the locals don’t seem to mind and happily sit on towels in the sun.

We are only one spot from the beach and have fabulous water views even though the campsite was full most of the weekend and lots of families with kids. 

Around 100 meters to the bus stop which leaves every 30 minutes to Split Old Town.

The Old Town is called Diocletian’s Palace which is one of the best preserved monuments of Roman architecture – another UNESCO site.    We rate it very highly and put it in our 5 top Old Towns to visit.

The narrow cobbled stone streets weave in and out with multi level stone buildings with little restaurants in every nook and cranny – some built directly into old roman stone  walls.  The boardwalk is a tourist Mecca with stalls selling souvenirs and waterfront restaurants eager to entice the tourist to spend more tourist dollars.  Queues formed around every ice cream shop where the choice of variety of flavours was astounding.

Several churches and cathedrals are found in the central square as are Roman statues and frescoes.    We even saw a wedding party outside the cathedral but not a lot of privacy for them as busloads of Asian tourists mingled with them taking happy snaps (mainly selfies) while they were waiting to enter the cathedral.

Monday 30th April

Had some difficulty finding a campsite that was suitable.  Many are really expensive and a lot insist on cash only (and are reluctant to issue receipots) – bit of a tax rip off we expect, but nice for the pocket.

Our campsite for tonight:  Opuzen – GPS 43.0292N   17.5514E

A little private farm just off the road but lush green well kept grassed pitches set amongst the mandarin orchard.   Limited facilities with electricity and water, one bathroom, one shower and a washing machine included in the €10 per person price – but the friendliest host ever.

Sat in the shade reading when our host arrived with a large plate and filled it with marinated cherries and whipped cream and a nip of the best alcoholic cherry syrup we have ever tasted – 27% proof he told us (included in the camping price).  Also presented us with a litre bottle of fresh mandarin juice.

He sells all kinds of fresh fruit and vegetables and we sampled some of his produce – not cheap – but fresh.

We met a young Dutch couple who arrived on their bikes towing a carriage with two small dogs in it.  We had seen them some miles back going up a large steep hill and commented on the carriage they were towing.

They are biking around the world over a two year period but only to places that allow dogs to campsites.  Ah to be young again – what a wonderful adventure and was very envious of them.