2018/10/17 – Germany – Moselle – Traben Trarbach

Wednesday 17th October

Our campsite for tonight:   Moselufer, St Aldegund – GPS N50.080662.   E7.131390

We have decided as we now only have a little more than a month before heading home that we revisit some of our favourite places on the Moselle.

This is a great winter spot as not many pitches offer shade as we found out on our last visit in summer. Bikeways run along the front of the campground and all pitches have magic waterfront views with a small but lovely village.

Thursday – Sunday 18th – 21st October

Our campsite for 4 nights:  Moselufer Reil – GPS N50.026272.   E7.114530

One of our favourite places again right on the Moselle where barges and river cruise boats meander past every few minutes.

The Moselle at Reil

One of the prettiest and safest bikeways we have ventured on which travel through the vineyards past old stone bridges and a castle to boot.  A little tractor towing a wagon that takes about 10 tourists shares this bikeway and leaves little room to get past.  So many little villages to pass through along the way makes this place a must to stop at and do several biking adventures.

The Village is set on a hillside and surrounded by grapevines.  So many winemakers here in the village and wine sampling is a must.

Reil main street from the river bank

Spent many days here and had such a wonderful time. 

The campsite has a small waterfront Imbiss (cafe) where the campers and locals gather throughout the day and night for food and drink.  The Imbiss closed for the season on Friday night and the big finale was the BBQ with outside bonfire which attracted a huge number of people who partied on until the wee hours of the morning.  Beers were €1 and wine €2 so there were a lot of untidy people.  Last look at our watch was after midnight so time to leave the party animals and indulge in some beauty sleep.

Monday – Tuesday 22nd & 23rd October

Our campsite for two nights:  Wohnmobilplatz, Kinheim – GPS N49.972141.   E7.057040

Haven’t been here before and guess we avoided it when here in summer – no trees here at all but lovely and sunny with the wonderful Moselle/vineyard views forever. 

Not a lot in the village but lots of interesting heritage buildings and a waterfront hotel which was very popular particular with bus groups.

The morning ritual here is a bit daunting with the church bells peeling at 8am, the campsite fuhrer arriving in his tractor at 8.10 am to collect the camp fee and the baker sounding his horn at 8.15 am.  Given the temperatures in the morning are single digits and it is still relatively dark at 8am, there were not a lot of happy campers at this time of morning.  Got to say the campsite fuhrer was not the friendliest.

One of the many interesting laneways in Kinheim – a bit narrow for Ziggy

Lots of little veggie plots border the campsite where veggies grow and the walnut tree on the border of the plots was dropping nuts in abundance.  Lots of campers out with their bags gathering up the nutty pickings.

Great little Stellplatz but the 8am forced start is the only negative.

Wednesday & Thursday 24th & 25th October

Our campsite for two nights:  Moselstellplatz, Traben-Trarbach – GPS N49.957180.   E7.104980

Couldn’t get in here during the summer months as it was packed out but this time round we won the lottery and got the best spot right on the waterfront with only the bikeway between us and the Moselle –   no campers either side as well – just wonderful!

Looking towards Traben from the Iron Bridge which was destroyed in WW2

Can understand now why this spot is so popular.  Our 20 minute walk along the bikeway riverfront track led us into one of the prettiest towns we have visited.  The double city is on opposite sides of the river and after spending two days here, not sure which side is the best.  Traben is the oldest with records dating back to 820 and Trarbach 1142. 

The Navigator taking in the views from the Iron Bridge

The architecture is spectacular on both sides with many old churches, cathedrals and buildings renovated back to their previous glory.   Spent the whole day exploring one side then the other and had to pinch ourselves as we walked through a wonderland – street after street of awe inspiring architecture. 

Old Railway Station in Traben

The main tourist attraction is the Bruckentor (Bridge Gate) on the Trarbach side which is a three storey entry structure on the bridge leading to the Traben side.  Looks like a small castle and is now a wine tavern on the second and third level.

Looking towards Bruckentor from Trarbach

On day one, we saw from the town, the ruins of Grevenburg Castle high on the hill and day two we took the challenge and climbed the mountainside to the top.   Only a few kms uphill, but all the way up a steep hillside left us breathless at the top. 

Looking towards Grevenburg Castle from Trarbach

So worth the effort as the 360 degree views over the Moselle, Traben and hillside vineyards were amazing.  There is a cafe right at the top (a road from the other side of the mountain leads to the ruins). 

View of the Bruckentor from the hiking trail

It was the old commandants quarters refurbished to a rustic cafe with an open fireplace, where we enjoyed a beverage before taking the steep descent back down to the twin towns.

Watching a cruise boat on the Moselle from the castle

Definitely worth a visit to see these twin towns and the Stellplatz was great but very popular even now out of season – it was full by lunchtime.

Ready to make the descent and yes it was cold

Friday & Saturday 26th & 27th October

Our campsite for two nights:  Reisemobilpark Treviris, Trier – GPS N49.750189.  E6.624440

The Stellplatz itself is on the Moselle about 3kms from the Old Town.  No real views as such as the fence and shrubs on the border block out most of the view.  It is well laid out and the best spot to camp because of its proximity to the Old Town.

A nearby regular bus service runs from Monday to Friday but not on weekends.  We arrived late on Friday and still tired from our long treks in Traben-Trarbach yesterday opted to rest and take the challenge in the morning.

The Navigator ordering the Gluhwein (to warm us up) from a bar in the middle of the Old Town Square

It is really cold now with this morning’s temp at 3 degrees with a high of 7 predicted so on with the coats, scarves, gloves and backpacks, we walked the 3 kms along the river, over the Romerbrucke (Roman Bridge) (2nd century) and soon found the Old Town.  

Trier is Germany’s oldest city (over 2000 years) with seven Roman UNESCO heritage sites in the city centre to explore. 

Wow, wow and double wow – what a fabulous Old Town where there is street after street of pedestrian only zones and with a mapped tourist trail to go by, made the exploring without missing anything so easy.

So much to see it took the whole day just walking and enjoying every moment.  Some of the most memorable for us were:

1     Porta Nigra is the world’s best preserved Roman city gate (170 AD) the town’s landmark. Set in the heart of Old Town in the main square, it stands tall and ominous amongst the newer buildings.

Porta Nigra

2     Konstantin Basilica (4th Century)

Konstantin Basilica

3     Kaiserthermen Imperial Baths (4th century) currently being renovated but many parts still visible.


4     Dom St. Peter (4th century) – just amazing.

Dom St Peter

5     Liebfrauen Basilica (13th century) and joins the Dom.

Were a little disappointed with the Amphitheater (100 AD) as it was a long walk out of town and though some of the original gates in the lower level still stand, would not recommend this as we have seen some in Greece that were much better.

Kurf Palace – adjoins Konstantin Basilica

Stopped in the main square for a hot gluhwein and watched some locals joining in for a display of how “The Macarana” is done German Style.

A truly wonderful day ending with a brisk walk home and then “feet up” in front of the heater for the rest of the day.

One thought on “2018/10/17 – Germany – Moselle – Traben Trarbach”

  1. Hello you lucky travelers…..how on earth are you going to settle down to suburbia???? What an interesting time you have had…..just wish we had done half of what you two are doing……. Not a lot to report,,,,,Ramsay still having to visit the eye specialist but not quite as often…..we are planning a cruise for Christmas…hurray….no cooking this year for me,. Keep on enjoying……Cheers, Ramsay & Barb

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