Blogs - Page 9 of 15 - Aussie European Tour

10/30/2017 Back to England

Back to England

Monday 30th October – Thursday 2nd November

Booked the Chunnel last night so looking forward to this new adventure. All the English Channel crossings in the past years have been either by plane or boat.

Left Zonnebeke Belgium in plenty of time to allow for traffic hold ups. Just as well as we struck standstill traffic along the highway which held us up for nearly an hour.

Ready with passports in hand at the Belgium border into France but again no sign of police or customs officers at the border.

The departure terminals were massive but really easy to navigate through. Our Australian Passports were scanned but not stamped at French Customs (which worried us) with no questions asked or no inspection of Ziggy. Next to English Customs and Passports were stamped and the only question asked was how long we were staying in England. Straight through with no inspection and then onto the train.

Hard to believe we were travelling under water – what an engineering feat the Chunnel is. Just over half an hour and we were at Dover and we could stay in the comfort of Ziggy all the way across.

Moving into position on the train for the Chunnel

Took a little while for my trusty driver to get used to driving on the other side of the road again in England having done 25,000 on the other side in Europe, particularly at roundabouts which were really scary with cars darting in and out of lanes to get across to their exits. Nearly collected one that came across two lanes right in front of us.

Our campsite for 4 nights: Leo Bay Campsite, Rushenden

We arrived here a day earlier than booked. Set high on a hill overlooking the bay at Isle of Sheppey, only a small campsite with five designated spots apart from the permanents. Leo Bay was fully booked but our hosts Steve and Sheila found an overflow spot for us for tonight.

Very homey campsite with great showers and toilets and what I would call a self contained flat without bedroom but with full kitchenette, lounge chairs and a fireplace plus a great outdoor deck overlooking gardens and lawn. Bird feeders everywhere – watched birds happily swooping in at feed time.

Steve pre ordered parts we needed for Ziggy. Had to replace the back of one of our side mirrors which we left behind in a tunnel in Norway and rear light cover which found its way around a garden post at a Lidl somewhere in Europe. Had to get these fitted before heading off for our MOT (annual vehicle inspection) which Steve arranged for us for the next morning.

Ziggy passed with flying colours (the mechanic said Ziggy was in excellent condition) – so happy to get the big tick and head back to LeoBay to meet up with Debbie and Michael (soon to move to the Gold Coast) who had also booked in at Leo Bay for an MOT, full service and running repairs. Spent many hours catching up with Debbie and Michael over a good red.

Next day, Steve had booked Ziggy in for a full service in the town of Sheerness nearby so took the opportunity to catch up with some internet at McDonalds whilst the service was done . There was not a great deal to see in Sheerness. Ziggy came through with flying colours with no repairs required during service and once again the mechanic saying that Ziggy was in excellent condition.

Next day Steve went about fixing some niggling but non mechanical repairs for us. Our solar controller had not been working since the start of our trip so he replaced this. Ziggy’s intrusion alarm system was also not working and he fixed this as we were keen to get this done before heading to some of the less safe countries in the next few months and lastly, Steve re positioned our rear view camera so it could be used as a permanent travelling camera and not just provide pictures of our bike rack and covers when in reverse.

Really had some wonderful days and nights with Debbie and Mike including a dinner at the local downtown pub only 20 minutes away. They have a prospective buyer for Normie their motorhome and are heading to Asia for 5 months before heading home to the Gold Coast. Really looking forward to catching up with them when we get home to Oz. They reminded us that we have now dined with them in 3 different countries – at the Currumbin Surf Club in Queensland in February 2 weeks prior to our departure, in Berlin a couple of months ago and now in Kent England.

The 2 Aussie Motorhomes at Leo Bay – Mike and Debbie’s Burstner “Normie” and our Hymer “Ziggy”

Thank you so much Steve and Sheila for looking after us and Ziggy and we can highly recommend your friendly, professional and efficient services to any fellow travellers.

Friday 3rd November

Left early to grocery shop before heading to Dover. No sign of Debbie and Michael being awake so opted not to wake them up so planned a phone call at Dover to say our Good-byes. Caught up with Steve and Sheila for hugs and thanks with the likelihood of seeing them again next year for “bibs and “bobs” to Ziggy.

Arrived in Dover an hour early so were able to get on an earlier ferry today. Again our French Customs experience was uneventful with a stamp and a wave before heading though security with a wave and through English Customs with a stamp. Have used our Australian Passports throughout without any issues despite being in the Schengen area for 8 months rather than the legal 3 months.

Waiting on the dock at Dover with the white cliffs in the background

A great day with blue skies and a sail across a calm ocean as we waved good-bye to the “White Cliffs” and enjoyed the short trip across the Channel back to France.

10/28/2017 – Aussie – Belgian friendships

Saturday 28^th and Sunday 29^th October 2017 – Zonnebeke Belgium

Departed the lovely French seaside resort of Hardelot and had an uneventful drive to Zonnebeke Belgium.

Drove about 150 klms which was further than we wanted to drive but the driving was easy and we really wanted to see the World War 1 memorials in this area where so many Commonwealth soldiers lost their lives.

Arrived at a Café/Inn named De Dreve (also known as the “ANZAC Rest”) or “Home of the Underground War”.

The outside side wall of the ANZAC Rest Inn

Went inside the Inn to check with the owner to see if it would be ok to stay overnight on his property.

As soon as we walked in the door we were just grabbed by the ambience – we felt right at home – the walls were completely covered with Aussie and ANZAC memorabilia – not an inch of space was not decorated (even a Maroon Army Cap).

The owner, Johan Vandewalle, welcomed us and gave the ok to camp on his premises and offered to provide whatever help he could.

Johan has a private museum on the top floor of his Inn and he allowed us to view the memorabilia and some of his films.

Johan has lived in this area all his life and has dedicated much of his time to finding unknown Commonwealth soldiers who were buried somewhere in the fields surrounding his Inn (and he has found many).

The best way to describe Johan would be part time Inn Keeper, war historian, archaeologist, farmer and engineer.

We spent Saturday afternoon talking to Johan whilst his Inn filled up with mainly local elderly Belgium people who were extremely friendly and when they found we couldn’t speak their language switched to another language until we found one we had in common. (German or English).

Johan gave us information including GPS coordinates regarding where to go to see the most important sites such as the Buttes in Polygonwood, Zonnebeke Museum, Tyne Cot Cemetery, Hill 60, Menin Gate, a German Cemetery and Messines Village, Memorial and Visitor Centre.

A wall of recovered shells inside the Zonnebeke Museum

On the Sunday we only had time to see the first three so will be coming back again – can’t stay longer currently as we are booked in for our annual vehicle inspection in GB on 31^st October.

Part of the Trench System at the Zonnebeke Museum

We could have stayed all day just at the Zonnebeke Musuem alone.

We did a standard museum tour and an add on tour through a dugout which is under the church on the Zonnebeke Museum site. This dugout is in its original condition – the only one left and will be closed permanently in a week’s time so we are very fortunate to have this opportunity. The dugout is 10 metres underground and was used as accommodation to rest soldiers from the front line, to treat the injured and to house supplies and armaments – it is in original condition.

One of the corridors in the Dugout in original condition

The strange thing was that all the car parks for the sites were overflowing with cars, 95% of which had Belgium number plates, the balance being mainly GB plates.

Sunday was really cold, wet and windy and yet all these local Belgian people went out to the memorials to pay their respects – they really appreciate what was done for their country.

Late Sunday afternoon we went back to the Inn again and it was packed with local Belgians.

We had a great time sipping on a few Belgian beers and then retired to Ziggy to prepare for the drive to Calais in the morning for the Chunnel journey across to GB.

Johan is trying to raise funds to build a memorial near his Inn but is struggling as Commonwealth officials don’t seem to warm to the idea of a private individual being involved in something of this nature – Johan’s project is called “Brothers -in-Arms Memorial Project” and can be viewed at www.brothersinarmsmemorial.org

The Brothers in Arms sculpture depicting the Hunter Brothers inside the ANZAC Rest Inn

The Brothers -in-Arms Project is based around the Hunter Brothers from Nanango Queensland, who were inseparable and the older brother John was injured in the Battle of Polygonwood in 1917 and died in his younger brother Jim’s arms.

Jim carefully wrapped his brother up in protective garments and buried him along with four other Australian soldiers and promised to return after the war to find his brothers body and send it back to Australia. The five soldiers became known as the “Westhoek Five”

Jim did return and searched in vain but could not find his brother’s body.

Johan was part of a team who uncovered John’s body in 2006 when pipes were about to be laid in the area.

There was an interesting article about Johan and his endeavours written by Greg Callaghan in the Weekend Australian in 2017.

Details regarding Johan’s Inn can be found at www.dedreve.be

10/22/2017 Our French Love Affair – Not

Our French Love Affair – NOT

Sunday 22nd & Monday 23rd October

Still have just over a week to go before heading across the English Channel so decided to head for the French Coast.

The French Aires (if not free to park at) are very inexpensive compared to Germany and Austria and most are based on a “user of services only basis” and charge for water and electricity, generally with grey and black water services free.

Stopped at a hardware store to get a short length of food grade hose and fittings – couldn’t find any so asked the shop assistant for help after saying “non Francais” – well she threw her arms up in the air, made some sort of strange noise with her mouth and walked off – had to get help from a customer.

Drove a few klms and stopped in a Carrefour to stock up on groceries and had our second altercation with the French. I went in first to start the shopping and shortly afterwards was told to head for the checkouts. It was only 12.30 on a weekday and I didn’t understand why. Rob tried to come in the entry door about 10 mins later, tried the doors but they were closed. He followed someone through the exit door and was all but man handled by security. He didn’t want to shop but help me at the checkouts. Turns out they close their shops around midday for a period of time. He stood his ground and they let him help me but we could feel all eyes watching us. Not very friendly as we were in their lunch time, apparently.

Camp for tonight: Aire de Camping-Car, St. Valery sur Somme

This is a very touristy town right on the Port with a marina and restaurants galore.

The camp itself is really great. Takes around 100 motorhomes and is perched high on a hill just above the town. Security barrier entrance which is always good and for €10 provides water and electricity at no extra cost. We were needing water and most French Aires are now charging around €4 for. 100 litres. Electricity was a bonus so over the next two rainy days we watched a lot of movies and chilled out.

A short 15 minute downhill walk to town, took us past some really old and run down buildings. Once we reached town we headed for the Port and Marina. We were rugged up with coats and hats as it was really windy and cold. The boardwalk followed the ocean around forever and we passed the huge Marina with so many yachts – though none out today. It is so surprising how dull and drab things look in these conditions, particularly the ocean which was also a dull grey. Interesting town with so many old buildings – many with little or no work done on them for decades.

Picked up some brochures from the tourist bureau and learned of the medieval part of town. It was only about a km away but decided to leave that until next morning when hopefully the weather might improve.

Back up the hill for movie night and on came Clint Eastwood with one of the Dirty Harry movies. We settled in with a few warm toddies and watched a few more movies.

Rained all night and by mid morning the weather cleared enough to hit the medieval part of this town. With the promise of a nice French lunch on the boardwalk (had seen the restaurant we fancied the day before and looked very promising), we eagerly set off for today’s adventures.

The Driver at Joan of Arc Gate in the medieval city

Focus point for the Medieval part is St Martins church, made of sandstone and believed to have been built in the mid 12th century. It was built on the top of a cliff on a flat base supported by a large retaining wall shaped as a curtain wall. It has been damaged a number of times throughout history. Many dates are inscribed on the inner and outer walls dating back to 1338. It is still used as the working church in the area. Took a couple of hours to walk through this unique part of town and found it so interesting.

Next for the long awaited lunch so off to the boardwalk. It was nearly 2pm now on Monday and the restaurant had around 20 people inside. The restaurant was split in two sides at the entry, we quickly noticed a large group with several small children (some of whom were screaming) on the right hand side and no one else so opted to head left where there were two tables of adults well into eating their lunch. The waitress tried to usher us to the right hand side at a table next to the children but we said (in our very best French) “no” and headed left and sat down. The waitress then totally ignored us for about 15 minutes, finally a waiter came to our table. “No” – he didn’t have a menu with English translations – and “no” we couldn’t sit on this side as it was for drinking customers only. Eating customers were to sit on the other side “with the children” – we were not happy with this as the other two tables next to us in this area were all eating. Well – we just got up and left. French experience – number 2 in two days.

Bought a fresh baguette on the way home and had a gourmet lunch with French duck pate, Polish anchovies, Polish pickled red cabbage, jalapenos, avocado, Camembert, Polish pickled gherkins and lots of other goodies and opened our one litre bottle of German white wine which we demolished while watching our Ziggy movies.

This town is about 100klm south of Calais and without patronage from the British would die in a heart beat yet they make no attempt to speak or have signage or restaurant menus in anything but French – we must have been to at least 15 countries by now and this is the only country with that attitude – other countries have the home country language, plus usually English and either German or Dutch.

Tuesday 24th & Wednesday 25th October

Again raining through the night and another overcast day ahead. Had done some washing a couple of days ago so no sign of getting these dry anytime soon.

Next task was to tackle the exit gate from the Aire just after watching an English couple spend at least 10 minutes trying to pay and get out. Couldn’t be that difficult could it? Didn’t want another French experience so went up for a sneak preview while they were getting out. Yes, it would have been difficult so was pleased we checked it out first.

Camp for two nights : Aire de Camping-Car, Stella Plage

An absolute beachfront camp with only a large sand dune between us and the beach. 20 spots for motorhomes and no fee. A dead end street with a resort at the end which has seen better days. Very popular with most spots taken up mid afternoon – supposed to be low season now but still motorhomes everywhere.

Watched kids with toboggans slide down the dunes and dads with sons building sand castles. We were protected from the wind by the sand dunes so happily enjoyed the bleak weather in doors.

Better day next morning so over the sand dunes we went and onto the beach. People were everywhere for miles enjoying a relatively wind free day. Really enjoyed the beach walk though we had the wind behind us. Miles and miles of hard flat sand. (The Driver called them mud flats)

Arrived at what appeared to be the main part of town so off the beach into the town to explore. Looked like a place ready to demolish. This town took no advantage of the seafront – nothing on the seafront except car parks and run down old buildings. Headed away from the seafront and hit “MainStreet” . The longest street you have ever seen – went for miles at right angles to the beach. Lots of apartment buildings all with metal shutters at every window and door. Not sure if it is a security issue or weather issue but very odd.

Highly recommend the camp spot as quiet and seemed very safe. Highly recommend the beach but the town has nothing interesting to offer.

Thursday 26th & Friday 27th October

Got up really late and didn’t head off until lunch time. Only travelled about 30 kms today. Little bit of blue sky with lots of cloud so does not look promising.

Feeling like not much to write home about and has been difficult to get excited about writing the blog. North West France has not been at all inspiring to say the least so excuse the lack of exciting things to write about.

We are only going back to the UK to service and re register Ziggy and then back over to Europe and looking forward to seeing the countries we have not yet been to in our previous visits.

Camp for two nights: Parking Avenue Joseph Lesur, Neufchâtel-Hardelot

We passed by relatively new beachside estates with beautiful homes (which was a nice surprise) with landscaped gardens. Shutters are on these as well, maybe to keep the cold out in winter?

Much more inspiring town. The camp spot again is only a short walk to the beach and town and is in a very quiet location amidst quality homes.

It is overcast but no wind and no rain so headed to town. Just delightful to see well maintained homes and buildings and a town with a sense of pride. Very touristy again, and the restaurants are full and there are signs of life here. First time we have seen restaurants with outside glassed areas and would be a real buzz in the summer season.

Hardelot beachfront – the nicest by far we have seen in this area

We are sharing the camp site with two French and one British motorhome. Look forward to catching up with the Brits tomorrow.

Still windy and cold today but no rain so off to the beach. The sand is firm and a wonderful playground for land yachts. Like wind surfers on wheels, there were 40 – 50 colourful yellow sails flying up and down the beachfront.

Strange to see families wearing Eskimo fur lined jackets and knee high boots building sand castles and playing on the beach. Walked for miles and thoroughly enjoyed the time (though really cold) but looked forward to heading back with the wind behind us. Strolled back into town which was alive and watched the fishermen opening fresh sea scallops shells and mussels and oysters in an open fish market in the middle of town. Prawns are very expensive here and look very glum compared to the ones back home so have not as yet bought any though really hankering for a feed of fresh prawns soon.

Caught up with the Brits on return and spent a couple of hours discussing everything and more including the rude, arrogant French.

10/19/2017 The Somme – Lest We Forget

Thursday 19th October

A really peaceful quiet night though given some of the comments on the Parkings APP we were very surprised. So many times we have found just the most beautiful place but because it is so great, seems that the younger generation love it too and come out to play at night and continue playing till the wee hours.

Fully rested we moved on through the countryside passing again through green fields of potatoes – hundreds of kms of potatoes and when the harvesters come in – these become mountains and mountains of potatoes ready for the trucks to come in and take to market.

Camp for tonight: Aire de Camping-car, Rocroi

Rocoi (Rocroy) is a unique star-shaped fortified town. Our camp spot sits in a grassy and treed area just outside the moated (though now dry) and walled entry to this town. The stronghold was first constructed in the 1660’s during the reign of Henry II and modified several times since then.

It features an inner fortified defence wall with five different bastions projecting from the wall. There is also an outer wall for both protection and attack. On this outer wall are demilunes, projections and angles to the walls. It is a remarkable example of one of the oldest fortified bastion towns in France.

Took most of the afternoon to explore both the outer and inner parts of the town – just truly amazing and really worth visiting.

Friday 20th October

Rain and wind and a very cold morning greeted us – such a surprise given the five days of picture perfect weather we had had.

Passed through Saint Quentin looking for our camp for the night but entrance to the campsite from the bridge was blocked by roadworks and couldn’t find a way around it so stopped for lunch and decided to move on. This large town had no street appeal at all so we were not unhappy to move on.

Back into the countryside now and headed for our first French Passion stay.

Camp for tonight: Les Canards de la Germaine, Sancourt

Not quite a farm stay as it was located just a couple of kms outside of the town. Only has spots for around 5 motorhomes. The entry has a fenced farm yard including a herd of goats, turkeys, chickens and chicks, a pheasant and numerous other farm animals. As the name suggests, they also have a duck farm adjacent and stock lots of duck products which are sold in the shop opposite the camp spot. Very busy during the day with locals coming and going to purchase these goods. They are also happy to provide fresh water if you need it (we didn’t).

There is no cost for camping but they are very happy for you to visit the shop and hopefully buy some produce. We did of course buy fresh farm eggs and some super duck pate which we will no doubt enjoy soon with some fresh baguettes. They also had apples, cheeses and smoked duck etc. They didn’t speak any English so could not understand what the other produce was.

Fed the goats which were no more than a metre away from Ziggy before retiring to a very peaceful and quiet night with only the noise of farm animals in the background.

Saturday 21st October – The Somme – Lest We Forget

Roosters woke us up bright and early so we were keen to get going asap.

Today was going to be a long day as we wanted to see the memorials and cemeteries and pay our respects to the Aussie fallen soldiers in the many WW1 battle grounds in this area – the Somme, which is both a river and an area.

We spent a couple of very sad, moving and depressing days driving around the farmlands and fields of the Somme and in particular the areas of Villers Brettoneux, Amiens and Pozieres.

Just before leaving Australia , our son-in law Glen lent us an excellent book written by the Australian author Peter FitzSimons titled Villers Brettoneux and whilst in Germany our friends Michael and Pam lent us a book written by the Australian author Mat McLachlan titled Walking with the ANZACS.

Both these books gave us some background information on where to go and what to expect but the extent of the slaughter doesn’t really hit home until you drive along the quiet little village roads and come across war cemetery after war cemetery with thousands and thousands of either little white crosses and or headstones marking the graves of known dead and unknown dead.

Entrance to the Australian Memorial at Villers Brettoneux

In the area near Pozieres there are cemeteries every couple of hundred metres – some are communal in that they have graves for Australian, New Zealand, British, Canadian and South African soldiers whereas there are a few dedicated to individual countries.

The Villers Brettoneux Cemetery suffered from gunfire in WW2 as well

The Australian cemeteries are maintained by the War Graves Commission and they are kept in first class order – beautiful green lawns, lovely gardens, headstones well marked and easy to read and not an inch out of position.

The Villers Brettoneux Cemetery is beautifully kept

Each cemetery has a register and a Visitor book.

More than 330,000 Australians served in World War 1 – 61,000 were killed – 46,000 on the Western Front – the dead lie in 523 cemeteries across France and Belgium.

The size of the Cemetery and the number of graves is staggering

Mat McLachlan, the author of Walking with the ANZACS has a tour company – “Battlefield Tours” which organises tours through the battlefield sites – we saw some of his mini vans running around whilst we were there.

The first big Battle of the Somme commenced on July 1, 1916 when the British attacked the Germans across a 30 kilometre front – the British lost 60,000 men either killed or wounded on the first morning alone.

The Australian AIF First Division were introduced to this area at Pozieres on the 23^rd July – this battle was the most costly battle of WW1 for Australia losing more than 23, 000 killed or wounded over a 6 week period – a lot for a young country with a small population.

Krys looking at the main Australian Memorial at Pozieres

More than one million soldiers on both sides were killed or wounded between July 1 and November 1916.

The Australian Cemetery – The Windmill Site near Pozieres – the white crosses are laid out to represent the AIF badge

Aussie Digger Restaurant in the main street of Pozieres

We also visited Thiepval Memorial which is Britain’s main memorial to its missing soldiers in France – it is a very high red brick monument and it bears the names of 73,000 British and South African soldiers who died in the Somme and have no known grave, including 7 VC winners – 55 Aussies who were killed while serving with British Forces are commemorated along with 10 Diggers who are buried there.

The massive Thiepval Memorial near Monquet Farm

We visited most of the sites on a Saturday which was freezing cold, with a strong wind and light rain – sadly there were only half a dozen people at the Aussie sites but at Thiepval there would have been around 10 coaches each holding around 60 people.

We hope to be able to visit some Belgium sites late in 2018

Camp for tonight: Aire de Municipale, Bapaume

Strangely, there were very few camp spots available in this area and as it was getting late took the first available camp spot available.

Only four designated spots one street back from Main Street right next to a large mixed parking place with a skate board park at the end of it. Had reservations about staying here, but it was still drizzling so thought the little skateboard demons might not play tonight. The Police also patrolled the area so felt quite safe particularly with the other motorhomes here.

Took a walk around town looking for a place to eat. Boring town to say the least and not a thing open on a Saturday night except for a kebab shop. Didn’t look good so opted to have dinner in La Ziggy – nothing flash but good enough to get us through to the next day without starving.

The only item we found of interest was the plaque below which was dedicated to about 26 Australian soldiers who were killed by a German booby trap mine which had been hidden in the Bapaume Town Hall – the rest of Bapaume had been either destroyed or set on fire.

Bepaume Town Hall Plaque honouring the Australians

10/17/2017 Multicultural Day

Tuesday 17th October – Multicultural Day

Sadly we are leaving western Germany today and within a couple of hours will be travelling through 4 different countries as follows:-

1 Germany

Population around 85 million

Area – 356970 sq km

Principal language German with English spoken by most people

Currency – Euro

2 Luxembourg

Population around 600,000

Area – 2586 sq km

Principal languages – French, German, Luxembourgish

Currency – Euro

3 Belgium

Population around 11.5 million

Area – 30518 sq km

Principal languages – Dutch, Flemish, French, German

Currency – Euro

4 France

Population around 70 million

Area – 543965 sq km

Principal languages – French, French and more French

Currency – Euro

At least this time we had consistency in the currencies.

Not a sign of any border guards anywhere which surprised us, particularly into France where we had heard of strict border patrols.

Again we found towns near these borders sadly neglected (particularly France) with very little done to them since WWII. Some still with bullet holes as a reminder of the past. Colours disappeared once out of Germany with buildings all now predominantly grey and stained concrete.

One of the better maintained streets near the French Belgium border

It was another day with a cloudless blue sky – the fourth day now in a row and temperatures during the day are just fabulous – even wearing summer shirts for a large part of the day. Nights are still crisp.

Using Mr Google, we polished up on our limited French words as we drove through the countryside. Certainly felt a little uncomfortable again from the lack of knowledge of the language here. Our inter-personal communication experiences on past tours through France were not good but people we have met on our travels have said things in France have improved now.

Once out of the dreary border towns, the rolling hills and lush green countryside were refreshing with agriculture consisting of mostly patchwork coloured fields of potatoes, other crops and grazing cattle. The soil is a rich red which contrasts beautifully with the hues of green.

Perched high on a hill in Montmedy is the amazing Citadel of Montmedy and its museum. The parapet walkway is approx 1 km long and provides a panoramic view of the countryside.

Camp for tonight: Port de Plaisance, Stenay

Only a very small village with not much happening. Some of the towns we travel through look like ghost towns with little or no signs of habitation. Everything happens behind closed doors we have realised and the only way one can find if a business is open is to open a door. Very different to home where everything is so open and visible.

Stenay Harbour??? Our site for the night

The Aire (French campsite) probably was a sports ground on a canal (couldn’t call it a harbour really) where there are still massive overhead lights in the centre – once were probably tennis courts or similar. Now converted to an Aire and spots for nearly 70 motorhomes. The sign at the boom gates request registration and payment with the Harbour master called the “Captainere”. Looked like an old school marm and the office looked like something out of the forties with just her desk and a couple of chairs in a dark dismal room. She didn’t speak any English but we got there in the end and after parting with €8 and receiving the password for the gate happily nestled in. Really beautiful spot on the Meuse River and for our dollars, free electricity, water and Internet (but only at the Captainere’s Office).

Took a walk around the sleepy quiet town and ended up at the Musee Europeen de la Biere. What a fantastic old building that consisted of three floors of beer making memorabilia. The building itself took up a whole block and its architecture of stone walls and floors, worn old timber steps and timber beams that could hold up the Eiffel Tower, was in itself so interesting. Learned a lot about beer making and the art of taking the cloudy look out of the final product. Purchased a cloudy beer from the restaurant at the end of the tour – just horrible, tasted like beer with lemon juice and struggled to get it down quickly.

Came back to Ziggy and had a real Polish beer while watching the local folk play boules on a rink at the far end of the Aire.

Wednesday 18th October

Again another blue cloudless day with the trip through the countryside really beautiful.

Camp for tonight: Aire de Camping-car, Charleville-Mezieres

This is a free Aire and backs up to a Camping Resort now closed for the winter season. We are finding more and more camps closing now and by end of October heaps more closing making it more difficult to find spots coming into Winter.

Again we have spectacular views across the Meuse River and are right on a marina 5 star view and only 7 spots in total.

Our view for the night from the front seat of Ziggy

The twin towns of Charleville Mezieres are only a short 800 meters away along the river into the heart of town. We strolled down the Rue De Moulin – the Main shopping street into the main square. Massive square with the regulation restaurants and bars around each side of the square. The building architecture is all the same – three storey brown brick all butted up. Stopped for the usual beer in the square and people watched until the sun started to disappear.

The Town Square and our venue for a beer and a people watch

Can’t believe the men’s hairstyles – shaved heads leaving only a small tuft of hair on top or shaved except for massive braids tied with rubber bands on top – a few feathers would give them a part in the latest western movie – playing an Apache.

The Winston Churchill Clock??? Doesn’t look much like Winston to me

Tattoos are also very popular with each tattoo parlour full as if the “sale of the century” was inside.

Beautiful clothes, shoes and bags everywhere so zipped the purse tightly on the way back.

Arrived back on dusk to find another boules competition in full swing on the harbour front. Certainly quite an aggressive sport with drives at the winning steel balls causing others to scatter in the head.

10/13/2017 – Zeltingen Germany – 50th Anniversary on the Mosel

Friday 13th and Saturday 14th October

We are now looking for a campsite for two nights. Criteria was it had to be picturesque, along a river, a town with some good restaurants to choose from and of course a good bikeway for this novice to enjoy. Stopped at a few potential spots along the way but being very fussy about choosing a really good one, so moved on a few times until we arrived here.

Our campsite for two nights: Zeltingen/Rachtig

We saw this spot back in March when we were headed for Poland but did not have time to stop here.

Filled all the criteria and again we got the 5 star spot in the front row overlooking the Moselle with the village right across the road. Very pretty little village with lots of character, though no historic buildings.

Here we are in Zeltingen – 1 Aussie Moho and 40 or so German Mohos – Ziggy is in the shade 2nd from bottom on right

It was a warm day though still overcast so the bikes came off and we set off. Travelled to the town of Bernkastel-Kues around 12 kms away and spent a few hours exploring. The hub for river cruises, it was so busy with tourists. Really a great place and would like to have stayed longer but it was now 4pm and was time to head back.

Village of Bernkastel- Kues with vineyards in the background

Cheated on the way back with a little help from my pedal assist electric bike but a real achievement for me. I envy Rob who looks so at ease on his bike.

Woke up to a foggy day, couldn’t see more than a metre or so into the river. Today was our special day – fifty years to the day we met and 45 years married. Our anniversary and the real reason for trying to find somewhere special to celebrate.

Rob and Krys celebrating 50 years together in Zeltingen

Zeltingen has many rose gardens in the Main Street and right outside Ziggy was a rose bush with one red rose in bloom – quickly picked and placed on the table for breakfast.

Or maybe this is Rob and Krys celebrating 50 years in Zeltingen

The fog lifted and the most beautiful blue cloudless sky replaced it. Set off on foot after lunch to explore the town and to find a restaurant with atmosphere for tonight. The twin villages of Zeltingen and Rachtig join at a bridge on the Moselle and both had restaurants to look at. Long story short, after 2 hours of walking, the Spanish restaurant we were keen on closed last year, so good excuse to stop at the replacement and have a pint before returning back to Ziggy.

Couldn’t find one with real atmosphere but had a great meal and some super local wine. The menus here have two pages of food choices and 10 pages of wine selections.

Sunday 15th October

Headed off early next morning, with fog thicker than the day before.

The temperatures have been so much milder over the last few days, we are hoping for more of the same. All the prime places along this river are full of German motorhomes and by midday, most are full to capacity. Bit like at home, where most of the retired people travel before or after school holidays.

Our campsite for tonight Sonninsel, Minheim

Fog still thick when we arrived here, it was difficult to see any view. Within a couple of hours it lifted and again another magnificent cloudless blue sky appeared.

Our front row view of coal barge at Minheim on the Mosel

Again took off on the bikes for hours only stopping along the way for refreshments before heading off again on one of the prettiest stretches of river and villages to date.

Our waterfront watering hole at Piesport on the Mosel with Krys donning bike helmet on the left

Watched a Viking ship full of guests make their way along the river at Piesport.

Lots of walkers, bikers and past a wedding venue where guests strolled along the paths past beautiful riverfront homes, restaurants and vineyards.

Didn’t realise till now how much you wouldn’t see if you didn’t have a bike.

Monday 16th October

Again a foggy day, we headed up the mountain into still heavier fog. Couldn’t see much at all but eager with anticipation of another beautiful day ahead.

Our campsite for tonight: Reisemobilpark, Saarburg

We have left the Moselle River now with the intention of heading west towards England. Ziggy is booked in on 31st October for service and MOT so with only two weeks to go, we need to travel toward France or Belgium soon.

Once leaving the Moselle, we travel through uninteresting large industrial towns until we arrive here on the Saar River. The fog is lifting and we are again blessed with picture perfect blue skies.

Off with the bikes and again after a few kms decide to cross the river into the village of Saarburg. What a surprise – an old town with a castle and waterfalls running through the Main Street.

Our lunch venue in Saalburg on the Saar River

Restaurants on both sides of the waterfalls and all fully packed out on Monday for lunch – would you believe! After locking the bikes, we became part of the scene and enjoyed a super lunch before heading back for a well deserved rest.

Waterfalls through the middle of town and right next to the restaurants

10/08/2017 Bike riding on the Rhine

Sunday, 8th October

Heading towards the Rhine Valley now. Our angels from Waldsee Therme – Rolf and Agnes, highly recommended doing the right side of the Rhine heading toward The Netherlands – most picturesque they said. So we are headed in this direction.

Still drizzling today but from experience, the weather patterns change many times during the day.

Our campsite for tonight: WellMobilPark, Bad Schonborn

Some sort of Roman chariot art work – about the only item we found worthwhile in Bad Schonborn

An interim stop only and apart from the Therme nothing this town has to offer in the form of interest or architecture. Spent a couple of hours wandering around the town with very little open. Had the worst hot chocolate and coffee in a little bakery/cafe where all the locals were eating massive slices of yummy looking but unhealthy cakes and sweets.

Had an argument with the camping fuhrer (everybody is some sort of fuhrer here) such a bad word – conjures up images of Hitler for me. Purchased a 24 hour Internet connection for 1 euro which we thought was great value. Our first mistake was to check on the iPhone to make sure it worked then logged out and tried to connect to the iPad. Fuhrer omitted to tell us that the password worked on one device only and was not interchangeable. Long story short after a heated discussion, they gave us another password and we happily connected to the computer and used massive amounts of Internet for the rest of this miserable rainy day.

Monday 9th October

Definitely needed to find something special today as the last 24 hours we have travelled through a lot of industrial areas with not much to see.

Our campsite for tonight: Reismobilstellplatz, Bacharach am Rhein

One campsite was front row on the Rhine but was packed quite early. Seems like the locals are still out in full force with most motorhomes having German number plates.

Too cold to go riding as again overcast and windy so headed into the small village. Named the Medieval Village, it did not take long to see why.

The buildings were just so unbelievably old (but beautifully restored old). Very busy touristy area but really special and a must to visit. The bricked arches with medieval towers atop were at each entry point to the town.

Behind arches were narrow cobbled streets with amazing old structures and vineyards climbing from there to the steep hills above. The obligatory castle overlooking all of this. Such an amazing place.

Tuesday 10th October

So much to see and so many fairytale towns along both sides of the Rhine. Castle after castle perched high on the hills overlooking these towns and vineyards in between.

Couldn’t get into Koblenz as it was fully packed out. Only a small Stellplatz for 10 motorhomes but ideally located to sightsee Koblenz. Have very fond memories of Koblenz from previous trip and the town has grown substantially. Such a shame we couldn’t get in there.

Our campsite for tonight: Kranchen, Lahnstein/Koblenz

Drove a few kms out of Koblenz and found this great campsite right on the Rhine River. Magic spot with only a bikeway and green lawn down to the river. The view across the Rhine is of a pretty little town which is overlooked by a fairytale castle. The Rhine is busy all day with river cruise boats and barges – the height of activity. The hills adorned with rows and rows of vineyards now changing colour to the Autumn shades. Would have been absolutely wonderful to have some sun but again a dreary overcast day.

Headed for the bikeway and travelled for around 25klms along the river. The bikeways are littered with Autumn leaves and the scenery along the way just so special. Finding it hard to get enough practice on the bikes – too long between rides so I feel like a beginner each time. Doesn’t bother the locals who seem to go out in all conditions. Bike riding is a way of life here and I am so jealous of the confidence these people have on the bikes even riding on busy one lane roads.

Highly recommended spot if you can’t get into Koblenz.

Wednesday 11th October and Thursday 12th October

Travelled along the Rhine forever. Village after village and castle after castle each worthy of several photos. Decided to move away from the Rhine and head toward the Moselle River. There were so many camping spots along the way to choose from and all are directly waterfront with so many priced at a small 7-10 euros. It was difficult to make a choice.

Our campsite for two nights: Moselufer, Reil

Beautiful spot again right on the river. Extremely busy with mostly German motorhomes. It is quite amazing to see other people’s reactions to a motorhome with GB number plates. Sometimes feel like we have two heads the way that they stare at us and we are ignored until they learn we are from Australia – their attitude towards us then seems to change.

We have now been challenged 3 times about Brexit until we tell people we are from Australia not the UK.

Walked through town in the afternoon. Very hilly with narrow cobble stoned streets. Most people in this region are wine makers or associated with them so there are many wine houses or wine stuhbles as they are called here all eager to sell you their wines.

On our bike ride – railway bridge in background and grape pickers van in foreground

The waterfront streets were extremely busy with walkers and bikers and many places to stop and eat or drink or just enjoy the view.

Along came a tractor pulling a passenger cart with about 8 people sitting at white clothed tables sightseeing and wine tasting in the cart as they moved along – couldn’t believe it and just wanted to capture this on film but just too slow.

At the entry to the campsite, there was a small cafe open all hours and was the meeting point for the large number of motorhomers in the camp. Great place to get local knowledge.

A resting place in the vineyards on our bike ride

Took advantage of a reasonable day and headed off on the bikes. The bikeways were excellent and took us through many vineyards and villages – just what we were looking for. Stopped along the way and watched as the grape pickers carried large buckets up and down the steep hills to the sorters who stood on the backs of trucks, separating the grapes from the stems – very labour intensive. Even saw one of their trucks with a porta loo on the back!

Rode for in excess of 25 kms – longest ride yet and can’t describe how super it was – can really understand why everybody here spends so much time riding. Two + hours later came home happy, tired and with sore parts that I never knew I had.

10/04/2017 awash with wine on the German/French border

Wednesday 4th & Thursday 5th October

Weather has not been good for a few days now. Some rain during most days and it is getting colder each day. Can understand why many Stellplatz close at end of September. Maximum does not go above mid teens now and minimum most nights is single figures. Our Doona is really warm and cosy so nights are not yet a problem, though might invest in flannelette sheets soon. Still looking for slippers for Rob.

Gas heating works a charm so the odd blast of hot air is really appreciated from time to time to warm things up quickly.

Our campsite for two nights: Reisemobilpark Turm & Kristelle, Dietingen/Rottweil

With one of the highways closed near our destination, NAVIE took us right through the middle of Rottweil. The centre of town is a real picture. The camera came out and happily snapped whenever we could to capture the wonderfully colourful and restored historic buildings.

Just outside Rottweil stands the 246m high ThyssenKrupp Tower, Germany’s highest observation deck. Currently under refurbishment so could not take the lift to the top.

A typical German user pays terminal which can take 8 power leads – for 50c you get 1 kw 0f power – wake up caravan parks in Australia

Dietingen is only 3 kms away from Rottweil with a wide bikeway between the two towns. The Stellplatz is only a short walk to the small town and houses the mineral and Fossils Museum “World of Crystals” at one end. Really well set up Stellplatz in a rural setting. Museum is only open a couple of days a week and only for a couple of hours.

The Internet speed was excellent (has been hard to find anywhere) so took advantage whilst it was raining. Really quaint little town with well kept large homes, a church and a couple of businesses. Pretty much an outer suburb of Rottweil. It was bitterly cold and the wind was so strong we opted not to do the bike ride into Rottweil.

Friday 6th October & Saturday 7th October

Still wet and cold when we left and drove most of the way through rain squalls.

Traffic was horrendous with roadworks and stop start traffic particularly through the main towns. Should have taken no more than two hours but took more than three.

What a find this place is.

Our campsite for two nights: Weingut/Weinstube Geiger, Dierbach

Just on the outskirts of this little village, set behind a Winery, there are five level terraces with large spots overlooking acres and acres of vineyards. For €10 per night you got a coupon to the value of €4 to spend on wine or food in the restaurant which is only open on Friday and Saturday nights, free electricity and water and grey and black water disposal. Internet is also free but you can only get this on the first and second level terraces which were fully booked out by a group.

Sat in the bar and did some wine tasting during the afternoon. Wine cost was so inexpensive and the quality was excellent. A really good white priced at €3 for a one litre bottle and a little more for a great red. Several to choose from to suit all taste buds.

Though our cellar was really full, we bought 6 of each and a couple of their cream coffee liqueurs for €9.

Just had to have dinner there as well – a real hoot. Restaurant opened at 6pm and was fully booked out by 6.05pm. Best guess around 80 Germans, eating, drinking and singing in their best voices accompanied by two piano accordions. Dinner was traditional German cuisine with most dishes made of pork, roast potatoes and of course sauerkraut. Even The Driver ate the sauerkraut. I think we left around 10pm and the place was still packed.

Ventured into the small town for a walk mid morning. Lots of other places in town offering wine tasting but very little else apart from homes, some accommodation, a town hall and sporting field.

Came back for lunch but soon after the rain came down again so the bike ride through the vineyards was postponed.

Typical German road side honesty box for eggs and other local produce

Took the opportunity to do some long needed washing and housework but enjoyed the tranquility and picturesque view of the long lines of grape vines spreading out over the hills in front and to the side of us.

Had such a good time last night, just had to go back to restaurant again. Walked across at 6.00pm only to see two buses parked outside. You guessed it- not a spare inch inside. Sadly headed back to Ziggy, opened up a bottle of our best white, turned on the iPod and conjured up a good curry – had a great night and thought about going across later to have a glass of wine – the rain came down again so that was the end of that.

Next morning our wine was delivered to our door by a little red truck (Door to door delivery) how good is that! Packed up and left in the rain.

Definitely highly recommended, particularly on weekends – but be in the bar before 6pm to get a seat.

09/30/2017 – Bad Waldsee Germany – the home of Motorhomes

Saturday 30th September

Now slowly heading north west back towards the UK as we are required to be back there before late November for our MOT, our vehicle annual inspection.

Our bike cover is now nearly in tatters and we have been looking for a new cover since we left Poland.

There are not many motorhomes in Poland and it was very difficult to find any motorhome dealers there.

Austria had dealers but most only stocked the Fiamma bike cover which only lasted us a couple of months before the zip failed – very inferior zips and material.

Whilst driving we saw a massive motorhome dealership in the distance and hurrah found the cover we had been trying to find – and there was only one in stock.

The staff could not speak English but assured us it was the one for our bike racks. We were just so happy!!!

Our campsite for the night: Brauhaus Ummendorff

Great little spot in a small town at the back of a boutique brewery and on a waterway with mother duck and the whole family eager to eat some of the bread we were offering. Free campsite with no requirement to have a meal.

One of those rare magic days, so we happily discarded the old bike cover and put it in the bin. The bikes came off and we set off through town to the bikeway and travelled about 16 klm through little villages and lots of farmland. Dark clouds started to appear over the horizon so headed back. The couple of hours biking were wonderful with not too many hills to climb.

Attached to the brewery is the Brauhaus restaurant and bar. Had to reward ourselves with a pint of the local stuff in the beer garden and were entertained by a group of young men (beginning part of a bucks party). The rain made everyone in the beer garden duck for cover.

Some good local brew with the buck’s party in the background on the right

Finished the evening with their homemade goulash soup (mmm very tasty) before making a dash to Ziggy. The christening of the new bike cover would have to wait till morning.

Sunday, Monday & Tuesday 1st – 3rd October

It didn’t take us long to work out that no way was this bike cover going to fit the bikes and the Fiamma bike racks. We did not try to fit it at the shop as we were double parked and too eager to move away – our big mistake. Cost around €50 and was too far to go back now – double ugh!!! Lesson learned now. Packed up the bike cover. Typical problem now – how do you fold something large, neatly and have it fit back in the small box it came in? Took about an hour and eventually looked like it had never been taken out of the box.

Campsite for 3 nights: Waldsee-Therme, Bad Waldsee

Arrived mid afternoon in the home town of Erwin Hymer of Hymer Motorhome fame . Hymers everywhere. We had visited the Hymer showroom on the way in but couldn’t get a park anywhere near it. Decided to visit it tomorrow.

Bad Waldsee was a lovely traditional village

Parked Ziggy in one of the largest pitches we had come across. Enough room for two motorhomes. There were 50 spots but sure you could double that number there was so much room. Really well laid out and very popular. Went off to pay at the parking machine and came back to a grinning, pointing Rob – almost directly across from us, Michael and Pam’s motorhome was parked. Had no idea they were coming here and they were as surprised as we were when they returned from the Bad Waldsee Therme Resort. Another big night ahead, we think.

It was unusual to see 2 Hymers next to each other both with GB plates and Aussie stickers – a little bit of home sickness crept in – just for a second.

Went for a walk into town as we had plans of leaving here in the morning and visiting the Hymer Museum and then the showroom to look at the latest Hymers on the market and then moving on. The town is set between two waterways and again really interesting buildings.

Arrived back and soon joined Michael and Pam for another great night. Discovered we had travelled to many of the same places, so never stopped to draw breath.

They had to leave early next morning, so we said our goodbyes.

Went to the Hymer Museum – really interesting, with three floors of vintage cars, caravans and motorhomes from all around the world. Really well done and for only a few Euros. Spent a couple of hours there and then headed back to the showroom.

Early model Morris Oxford motorhome – painted in Brirish racing green and federation cream

A very upmarket BMW powered motorhome with a mezzanine floor for sun bathing

We bought a new bike cover after taking about two hours and doing a degree in “brochure reading in German” to try to fit it. We have now bought 3 bike covers in 7 months – 1 demolished, 1 that doesn’t fit and one that does fit!

Too late now to head out of town so we go back to the same Stellplatz in Bad Waldsee. Being a long weekend in Germany, the Stellplatz was full as expected. We decided to wait, it was late and we didn’t want to travel at night so we parked at the entry and ate our very, very, late lunch. Other motorhomes came and parked behind us – all with the same thought.

Our angels in disguise, Rolf and Agnes (Germans from near Düsseldorf) came over and told us, that they and their neighbours would move and make room for us – three motorhomes in a space for two – what a lovely gesture. When we settled, we took over a bottle of NZ Marlborough Sav Blanc and then sat and talked for hours. We talked about both of our many adventures and the bike covers and long story short, they had been looking for a cover for their bikes, so we opened our repackaged box and fitted the cover. A perfect fit! They happily bought it and everyone was happy.

They are travelling to Spain early next year so we hope to catch up with them there. Thank you so very much, Rolf and Agnes for helping us out.

It was raining next morning and as it was a public holiday, we decided to stay for another day. So we said our goodbyes and moved Ziggy to another spot. Weather began to clear so we spent another few hours walking and exploring and finishing in the town centre with an ice cream for me and a pint for Rob.

09/27/2017 – To the Top of The Tyrol

GERMANY

Wednesday 27th and Thursday 28th September

We are planning to meet up with fellow Australian travellers, Michael and Pam who are currently in Austria on their fourth trip in their Hymer and so we are now headed towards Innsbruck to find a good overnight site.

Found a campsite in Innsbruck which was very busy but quickly decided we did not want to stay here – prefer the country so set off again after some lunch.

Had planned to get fuel in Innsbruck but forgot and soon we were on the motorway where prices are regularly .3 Euro (45 cents) a litre dearer.

We climbed higher and higher through some unbelievably magnificent scenery but were concerned when the Low Fuel light came on.

Got stuck behind a tractor going uphill for quite a few Kms and felt the pressure mounting as going uphill in Ziggy in second gear chews up fuel quickly.

Finally got to the top and breathed a sigh of relief as we headed downhill topped up with fuel and Ziggy happily continued on.

Our campsite for two nights: Karwendel, Mittenwald – Germany

Crossed the border from Austria in to Germany, though you wouldn’t know it.

Had heard that Germany had stepped up border patrols and were no longer allowing refugees in. No sign of a border patrol on this secondary road here though.

Wow, Mittenwald is the most amazing little village set at the bottom of a mountain with the second highest mountain cable car lift in Germany just a short walk away. The Stellplatz allows for 20 Motorhomes and was quite full with only a couple of spots available.

We had passed through the village on the way to the Stellplatz and couldn’t wait to explore it.

The prettiest village we have come to so far. Difficult to describe. The facades of many of the village houses are decorated with murals dating back to the 18th century. Most of the colourful and artistic frescoes are based on biblical themes. Every house looked new, fresh and colourful.

Dropped into the tourist office and picked up some brochures. There are some fabulous walks at the top of the mountains to explore – maybe tomorrow.

Did our favourite thing after a long walk – stopped in the village, had a beer and watched the passing tourist traffic before heading home for a well deserved rest.

Saved a spot next to Ziggy for Michael and Pam who were arriving lunchtime so took the time to catch up on emails, pay bills and upload some blog info. Internet has been woeful in Austria – so slow – and chewing up the GBs as if they were MBs. Think the Govt here must have shares (or own) the internet companies. A short half hour on the web just sending emails and doing some research took up about 3GBs. Think we might run out of our 10 GBs before the end of the month.

Michael and Pam arrived after lunch and the hours just rushed by with copious glasses of wine consumed, travelling stories exchanged with much laughter and finally a break to show them this most beautiful town.

Back for a BBQ and a bottle of well aged champagne (Pam had been waiting four years to drink this with someone – luckily me) and more wine, liqueurs and finishing with chocolates. Just such a fabulous night with a parting promise to work off the calories tomorrow with some exercise.

No headaches, or hangovers next morning but not an early start!

Friday 29th September

We met with Michael and Pam again in the morning, donned some cold weather gear and hiking boots and headed towards the cable car.

Michael and Pam with us at the top of the Cable Car ride

Where we stayed overnight was only 930 metres above sea level with no snow at this time of the year, however, the top of the cable car is 2244 metres with snow and then on the hiking trails heights of over 2350 metres are reached.

The views from the top are great and get better the further up the hiking trails you climb.

Krys looking back towards the top of the Cable Car

Michael and Pam both had Nordic walking sticks and were able to manage the more difficult sections much better than Krys and I without the sticks so I think we may be purchasing some sticks before future walks.

Michael and Pam with their Nordic walking sticks

We reluctantly descended back to our Hymers, said our goodbyes and headed off in different directions.

We headed off towards Blaichach to catch up with our Dutch friends whom we met at the Polish campsite “Bumerang” in the first four weeks of this trip – Marie-Louise and Robert. They are also regular motorhome travellers and have been communicating regularly with us.

Again the motorways were smooth and easy driving and we look in awe at the colourful Autumn landscapes around every corner. Leaves dropping by the thousands with each gust of wind. The streets and paddocks covered with thousands of leaves of every colour and the trees now becoming barer each day as we head towards winter.

Our campsite for the night: Alpen-Rundblick – Blaichach

Marie-Louise and Rob arrived late afternoon after visiting Oberstdorf nearby to get tickets for the German Ice Skating dance competitions on Saturday and Sunday. Travelling with them were Kazik and Jola who are the co owners of “Bumerang”. They were travelling in Spain when we visited Bumerang and it was great to meet with them this time.

Too much laughter and way too many vodkas (home brew moonshine with raspberries to make it healthy! ). Didn’t realise how strong they were until we stood up and headed back on unsteady feet.

Very popular campsite with the locals but quite expensive as apart from the 17€ per night fee, everything was extra including WC, shower and of course electricity. Lovely views across to the mountains and takes around 50 motorhomes.

Don’t think we would have been very popular with our neighbours as we partied on till around midnight.

It was a very interesting conversation as Marie-Louise and Robert are Dutch but have been living in Poland for quite a few years and Kazik and Jola are Polish but we were all speaking in German with Marie-Louise and Robert helping out with the translations when our German let us down, which seemed to increase the more moonshine we had.