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10/22/2017 Our French Love Affair – Not

Our French Love Affair – NOT

Sunday 22nd & Monday 23rd October

Still have just over a week to go before heading across the English Channel so decided to head for the French Coast.

The French Aires (if not free to park at) are very inexpensive compared to Germany and Austria and most are based on a “user of services only basis” and charge for water and electricity, generally with grey and black water services free.

Stopped at a hardware store to get a short length of food grade hose and fittings – couldn’t find any so asked the shop assistant for help after saying “non Francais” – well she threw her arms up in the air, made some sort of strange noise with her mouth and walked off – had to get help from a customer.

Drove a few klms and stopped in a Carrefour to stock up on groceries and had our second altercation with the French. I went in first to start the shopping and shortly afterwards was told to head for the checkouts. It was only 12.30 on a weekday and I didn’t understand why. Rob tried to come in the entry door about 10 mins later, tried the doors but they were closed. He followed someone through the exit door and was all but man handled by security. He didn’t want to shop but help me at the checkouts. Turns out they close their shops around midday for a period of time. He stood his ground and they let him help me but we could feel all eyes watching us. Not very friendly as we were in their lunch time, apparently.

Camp for tonight: Aire de Camping-Car, St. Valery sur Somme

This is a very touristy town right on the Port with a marina and restaurants galore.

The camp itself is really great. Takes around 100 motorhomes and is perched high on a hill just above the town. Security barrier entrance which is always good and for €10 provides water and electricity at no extra cost. We were needing water and most French Aires are now charging around €4 for. 100 litres. Electricity was a bonus so over the next two rainy days we watched a lot of movies and chilled out.

A short 15 minute downhill walk to town, took us past some really old and run down buildings. Once we reached town we headed for the Port and Marina. We were rugged up with coats and hats as it was really windy and cold. The boardwalk followed the ocean around forever and we passed the huge Marina with so many yachts – though none out today. It is so surprising how dull and drab things look in these conditions, particularly the ocean which was also a dull grey. Interesting town with so many old buildings – many with little or no work done on them for decades.

Picked up some brochures from the tourist bureau and learned of the medieval part of town. It was only about a km away but decided to leave that until next morning when hopefully the weather might improve.

Back up the hill for movie night and on came Clint Eastwood with one of the Dirty Harry movies. We settled in with a few warm toddies and watched a few more movies.

Rained all night and by mid morning the weather cleared enough to hit the medieval part of this town. With the promise of a nice French lunch on the boardwalk (had seen the restaurant we fancied the day before and looked very promising), we eagerly set off for today’s adventures.

The Driver at Joan of Arc Gate in the medieval city

Focus point for the Medieval part is St Martins church, made of sandstone and believed to have been built in the mid 12th century. It was built on the top of a cliff on a flat base supported by a large retaining wall shaped as a curtain wall. It has been damaged a number of times throughout history. Many dates are inscribed on the inner and outer walls dating back to 1338. It is still used as the working church in the area. Took a couple of hours to walk through this unique part of town and found it so interesting.

Next for the long awaited lunch so off to the boardwalk. It was nearly 2pm now on Monday and the restaurant had around 20 people inside. The restaurant was split in two sides at the entry, we quickly noticed a large group with several small children (some of whom were screaming) on the right hand side and no one else so opted to head left where there were two tables of adults well into eating their lunch. The waitress tried to usher us to the right hand side at a table next to the children but we said (in our very best French) “no” and headed left and sat down. The waitress then totally ignored us for about 15 minutes, finally a waiter came to our table. “No” – he didn’t have a menu with English translations – and “no” we couldn’t sit on this side as it was for drinking customers only. Eating customers were to sit on the other side “with the children” – we were not happy with this as the other two tables next to us in this area were all eating. Well – we just got up and left. French experience – number 2 in two days.

Bought a fresh baguette on the way home and had a gourmet lunch with French duck pate, Polish anchovies, Polish pickled red cabbage, jalapenos, avocado, Camembert, Polish pickled gherkins and lots of other goodies and opened our one litre bottle of German white wine which we demolished while watching our Ziggy movies.

This town is about 100klm south of Calais and without patronage from the British would die in a heart beat yet they make no attempt to speak or have signage or restaurant menus in anything but French – we must have been to at least 15 countries by now and this is the only country with that attitude – other countries have the home country language, plus usually English and either German or Dutch.

Tuesday 24th & Wednesday 25th October

Again raining through the night and another overcast day ahead. Had done some washing a couple of days ago so no sign of getting these dry anytime soon.

Next task was to tackle the exit gate from the Aire just after watching an English couple spend at least 10 minutes trying to pay and get out. Couldn’t be that difficult could it? Didn’t want another French experience so went up for a sneak preview while they were getting out. Yes, it would have been difficult so was pleased we checked it out first.

Camp for two nights : Aire de Camping-Car, Stella Plage

An absolute beachfront camp with only a large sand dune between us and the beach. 20 spots for motorhomes and no fee. A dead end street with a resort at the end which has seen better days. Very popular with most spots taken up mid afternoon – supposed to be low season now but still motorhomes everywhere.

Watched kids with toboggans slide down the dunes and dads with sons building sand castles. We were protected from the wind by the sand dunes so happily enjoyed the bleak weather in doors.

Better day next morning so over the sand dunes we went and onto the beach. People were everywhere for miles enjoying a relatively wind free day. Really enjoyed the beach walk though we had the wind behind us. Miles and miles of hard flat sand. (The Driver called them mud flats)

Arrived at what appeared to be the main part of town so off the beach into the town to explore. Looked like a place ready to demolish. This town took no advantage of the seafront – nothing on the seafront except car parks and run down old buildings. Headed away from the seafront and hit “MainStreet” . The longest street you have ever seen – went for miles at right angles to the beach. Lots of apartment buildings all with metal shutters at every window and door. Not sure if it is a security issue or weather issue but very odd.

Highly recommend the camp spot as quiet and seemed very safe. Highly recommend the beach but the town has nothing interesting to offer.

Thursday 26th & Friday 27th October

Got up really late and didn’t head off until lunch time. Only travelled about 30 kms today. Little bit of blue sky with lots of cloud so does not look promising.

Feeling like not much to write home about and has been difficult to get excited about writing the blog. North West France has not been at all inspiring to say the least so excuse the lack of exciting things to write about.

We are only going back to the UK to service and re register Ziggy and then back over to Europe and looking forward to seeing the countries we have not yet been to in our previous visits.

Camp for two nights: Parking Avenue Joseph Lesur, Neufchâtel-Hardelot

We passed by relatively new beachside estates with beautiful homes (which was a nice surprise) with landscaped gardens. Shutters are on these as well, maybe to keep the cold out in winter?

Much more inspiring town. The camp spot again is only a short walk to the beach and town and is in a very quiet location amidst quality homes.

It is overcast but no wind and no rain so headed to town. Just delightful to see well maintained homes and buildings and a town with a sense of pride. Very touristy again, and the restaurants are full and there are signs of life here. First time we have seen restaurants with outside glassed areas and would be a real buzz in the summer season.

Hardelot beachfront – the nicest by far we have seen in this area

We are sharing the camp site with two French and one British motorhome. Look forward to catching up with the Brits tomorrow.

Still windy and cold today but no rain so off to the beach. The sand is firm and a wonderful playground for land yachts. Like wind surfers on wheels, there were 40 – 50 colourful yellow sails flying up and down the beachfront.

Strange to see families wearing Eskimo fur lined jackets and knee high boots building sand castles and playing on the beach. Walked for miles and thoroughly enjoyed the time (though really cold) but looked forward to heading back with the wind behind us. Strolled back into town which was alive and watched the fishermen opening fresh sea scallops shells and mussels and oysters in an open fish market in the middle of town. Prawns are very expensive here and look very glum compared to the ones back home so have not as yet bought any though really hankering for a feed of fresh prawns soon.

Caught up with the Brits on return and spent a couple of hours discussing everything and more including the rude, arrogant French.

10/19/2017 The Somme – Lest We Forget

Thursday 19th October

A really peaceful quiet night though given some of the comments on the Parkings APP we were very surprised. So many times we have found just the most beautiful place but because it is so great, seems that the younger generation love it too and come out to play at night and continue playing till the wee hours.

Fully rested we moved on through the countryside passing again through green fields of potatoes – hundreds of kms of potatoes and when the harvesters come in – these become mountains and mountains of potatoes ready for the trucks to come in and take to market.

Camp for tonight: Aire de Camping-car, Rocroi

Rocoi (Rocroy) is a unique star-shaped fortified town. Our camp spot sits in a grassy and treed area just outside the moated (though now dry) and walled entry to this town. The stronghold was first constructed in the 1660’s during the reign of Henry II and modified several times since then.

It features an inner fortified defence wall with five different bastions projecting from the wall. There is also an outer wall for both protection and attack. On this outer wall are demilunes, projections and angles to the walls. It is a remarkable example of one of the oldest fortified bastion towns in France.

Took most of the afternoon to explore both the outer and inner parts of the town – just truly amazing and really worth visiting.

Friday 20th October

Rain and wind and a very cold morning greeted us – such a surprise given the five days of picture perfect weather we had had.

Passed through Saint Quentin looking for our camp for the night but entrance to the campsite from the bridge was blocked by roadworks and couldn’t find a way around it so stopped for lunch and decided to move on. This large town had no street appeal at all so we were not unhappy to move on.

Back into the countryside now and headed for our first French Passion stay.

Camp for tonight: Les Canards de la Germaine, Sancourt

Not quite a farm stay as it was located just a couple of kms outside of the town. Only has spots for around 5 motorhomes. The entry has a fenced farm yard including a herd of goats, turkeys, chickens and chicks, a pheasant and numerous other farm animals. As the name suggests, they also have a duck farm adjacent and stock lots of duck products which are sold in the shop opposite the camp spot. Very busy during the day with locals coming and going to purchase these goods. They are also happy to provide fresh water if you need it (we didn’t).

There is no cost for camping but they are very happy for you to visit the shop and hopefully buy some produce. We did of course buy fresh farm eggs and some super duck pate which we will no doubt enjoy soon with some fresh baguettes. They also had apples, cheeses and smoked duck etc. They didn’t speak any English so could not understand what the other produce was.

Fed the goats which were no more than a metre away from Ziggy before retiring to a very peaceful and quiet night with only the noise of farm animals in the background.

Saturday 21st October – The Somme – Lest We Forget

Roosters woke us up bright and early so we were keen to get going asap.

Today was going to be a long day as we wanted to see the memorials and cemeteries and pay our respects to the Aussie fallen soldiers in the many WW1 battle grounds in this area – the Somme, which is both a river and an area.

We spent a couple of very sad, moving and depressing days driving around the farmlands and fields of the Somme and in particular the areas of Villers Brettoneux, Amiens and Pozieres.

Just before leaving Australia , our son-in law Glen lent us an excellent book written by the Australian author Peter FitzSimons titled Villers Brettoneux and whilst in Germany our friends Michael and Pam lent us a book written by the Australian author Mat McLachlan titled Walking with the ANZACS.

Both these books gave us some background information on where to go and what to expect but the extent of the slaughter doesn’t really hit home until you drive along the quiet little village roads and come across war cemetery after war cemetery with thousands and thousands of either little white crosses and or headstones marking the graves of known dead and unknown dead.

Entrance to the Australian Memorial at Villers Brettoneux

In the area near Pozieres there are cemeteries every couple of hundred metres – some are communal in that they have graves for Australian, New Zealand, British, Canadian and South African soldiers whereas there are a few dedicated to individual countries.

The Villers Brettoneux Cemetery suffered from gunfire in WW2 as well

The Australian cemeteries are maintained by the War Graves Commission and they are kept in first class order – beautiful green lawns, lovely gardens, headstones well marked and easy to read and not an inch out of position.

The Villers Brettoneux Cemetery is beautifully kept

Each cemetery has a register and a Visitor book.

More than 330,000 Australians served in World War 1 – 61,000 were killed – 46,000 on the Western Front – the dead lie in 523 cemeteries across France and Belgium.

The size of the Cemetery and the number of graves is staggering

Mat McLachlan, the author of Walking with the ANZACS has a tour company – “Battlefield Tours” which organises tours through the battlefield sites – we saw some of his mini vans running around whilst we were there.

The first big Battle of the Somme commenced on July 1, 1916 when the British attacked the Germans across a 30 kilometre front – the British lost 60,000 men either killed or wounded on the first morning alone.

The Australian AIF First Division were introduced to this area at Pozieres on the 23^rd July – this battle was the most costly battle of WW1 for Australia losing more than 23, 000 killed or wounded over a 6 week period – a lot for a young country with a small population.

Krys looking at the main Australian Memorial at Pozieres

More than one million soldiers on both sides were killed or wounded between July 1 and November 1916.

The Australian Cemetery – The Windmill Site near Pozieres – the white crosses are laid out to represent the AIF badge

Aussie Digger Restaurant in the main street of Pozieres

We also visited Thiepval Memorial which is Britain’s main memorial to its missing soldiers in France – it is a very high red brick monument and it bears the names of 73,000 British and South African soldiers who died in the Somme and have no known grave, including 7 VC winners – 55 Aussies who were killed while serving with British Forces are commemorated along with 10 Diggers who are buried there.

The massive Thiepval Memorial near Monquet Farm

We visited most of the sites on a Saturday which was freezing cold, with a strong wind and light rain – sadly there were only half a dozen people at the Aussie sites but at Thiepval there would have been around 10 coaches each holding around 60 people.

We hope to be able to visit some Belgium sites late in 2018

Camp for tonight: Aire de Municipale, Bapaume

Strangely, there were very few camp spots available in this area and as it was getting late took the first available camp spot available.

Only four designated spots one street back from Main Street right next to a large mixed parking place with a skate board park at the end of it. Had reservations about staying here, but it was still drizzling so thought the little skateboard demons might not play tonight. The Police also patrolled the area so felt quite safe particularly with the other motorhomes here.

Took a walk around town looking for a place to eat. Boring town to say the least and not a thing open on a Saturday night except for a kebab shop. Didn’t look good so opted to have dinner in La Ziggy – nothing flash but good enough to get us through to the next day without starving.

The only item we found of interest was the plaque below which was dedicated to about 26 Australian soldiers who were killed by a German booby trap mine which had been hidden in the Bapaume Town Hall – the rest of Bapaume had been either destroyed or set on fire.

Bepaume Town Hall Plaque honouring the Australians

10/17/2017 Multicultural Day

Tuesday 17th October – Multicultural Day

Sadly we are leaving western Germany today and within a couple of hours will be travelling through 4 different countries as follows:-

1 Germany

Population around 85 million

Area – 356970 sq km

Principal language German with English spoken by most people

Currency – Euro

2 Luxembourg

Population around 600,000

Area – 2586 sq km

Principal languages – French, German, Luxembourgish

Currency – Euro

3 Belgium

Population around 11.5 million

Area – 30518 sq km

Principal languages – Dutch, Flemish, French, German

Currency – Euro

4 France

Population around 70 million

Area – 543965 sq km

Principal languages – French, French and more French

Currency – Euro

At least this time we had consistency in the currencies.

Not a sign of any border guards anywhere which surprised us, particularly into France where we had heard of strict border patrols.

Again we found towns near these borders sadly neglected (particularly France) with very little done to them since WWII. Some still with bullet holes as a reminder of the past. Colours disappeared once out of Germany with buildings all now predominantly grey and stained concrete.

One of the better maintained streets near the French Belgium border

It was another day with a cloudless blue sky – the fourth day now in a row and temperatures during the day are just fabulous – even wearing summer shirts for a large part of the day. Nights are still crisp.

Using Mr Google, we polished up on our limited French words as we drove through the countryside. Certainly felt a little uncomfortable again from the lack of knowledge of the language here. Our inter-personal communication experiences on past tours through France were not good but people we have met on our travels have said things in France have improved now.

Once out of the dreary border towns, the rolling hills and lush green countryside were refreshing with agriculture consisting of mostly patchwork coloured fields of potatoes, other crops and grazing cattle. The soil is a rich red which contrasts beautifully with the hues of green.

Perched high on a hill in Montmedy is the amazing Citadel of Montmedy and its museum. The parapet walkway is approx 1 km long and provides a panoramic view of the countryside.

Camp for tonight: Port de Plaisance, Stenay

Only a very small village with not much happening. Some of the towns we travel through look like ghost towns with little or no signs of habitation. Everything happens behind closed doors we have realised and the only way one can find if a business is open is to open a door. Very different to home where everything is so open and visible.

Stenay Harbour??? Our site for the night

The Aire (French campsite) probably was a sports ground on a canal (couldn’t call it a harbour really) where there are still massive overhead lights in the centre – once were probably tennis courts or similar. Now converted to an Aire and spots for nearly 70 motorhomes. The sign at the boom gates request registration and payment with the Harbour master called the “Captainere”. Looked like an old school marm and the office looked like something out of the forties with just her desk and a couple of chairs in a dark dismal room. She didn’t speak any English but we got there in the end and after parting with €8 and receiving the password for the gate happily nestled in. Really beautiful spot on the Meuse River and for our dollars, free electricity, water and Internet (but only at the Captainere’s Office).

Took a walk around the sleepy quiet town and ended up at the Musee Europeen de la Biere. What a fantastic old building that consisted of three floors of beer making memorabilia. The building itself took up a whole block and its architecture of stone walls and floors, worn old timber steps and timber beams that could hold up the Eiffel Tower, was in itself so interesting. Learned a lot about beer making and the art of taking the cloudy look out of the final product. Purchased a cloudy beer from the restaurant at the end of the tour – just horrible, tasted like beer with lemon juice and struggled to get it down quickly.

Came back to Ziggy and had a real Polish beer while watching the local folk play boules on a rink at the far end of the Aire.

Wednesday 18th October

Again another blue cloudless day with the trip through the countryside really beautiful.

Camp for tonight: Aire de Camping-car, Charleville-Mezieres

This is a free Aire and backs up to a Camping Resort now closed for the winter season. We are finding more and more camps closing now and by end of October heaps more closing making it more difficult to find spots coming into Winter.

Again we have spectacular views across the Meuse River and are right on a marina 5 star view and only 7 spots in total.

Our view for the night from the front seat of Ziggy

The twin towns of Charleville Mezieres are only a short 800 meters away along the river into the heart of town. We strolled down the Rue De Moulin – the Main shopping street into the main square. Massive square with the regulation restaurants and bars around each side of the square. The building architecture is all the same – three storey brown brick all butted up. Stopped for the usual beer in the square and people watched until the sun started to disappear.

The Town Square and our venue for a beer and a people watch

Can’t believe the men’s hairstyles – shaved heads leaving only a small tuft of hair on top or shaved except for massive braids tied with rubber bands on top – a few feathers would give them a part in the latest western movie – playing an Apache.

The Winston Churchill Clock??? Doesn’t look much like Winston to me

Tattoos are also very popular with each tattoo parlour full as if the “sale of the century” was inside.

Beautiful clothes, shoes and bags everywhere so zipped the purse tightly on the way back.

Arrived back on dusk to find another boules competition in full swing on the harbour front. Certainly quite an aggressive sport with drives at the winning steel balls causing others to scatter in the head.

10/13/2017 – Zeltingen Germany – 50th Anniversary on the Mosel

Friday 13th and Saturday 14th October

We are now looking for a campsite for two nights. Criteria was it had to be picturesque, along a river, a town with some good restaurants to choose from and of course a good bikeway for this novice to enjoy. Stopped at a few potential spots along the way but being very fussy about choosing a really good one, so moved on a few times until we arrived here.

Our campsite for two nights: Zeltingen/Rachtig

We saw this spot back in March when we were headed for Poland but did not have time to stop here.

Filled all the criteria and again we got the 5 star spot in the front row overlooking the Moselle with the village right across the road. Very pretty little village with lots of character, though no historic buildings.

Here we are in Zeltingen – 1 Aussie Moho and 40 or so German Mohos – Ziggy is in the shade 2nd from bottom on right

It was a warm day though still overcast so the bikes came off and we set off. Travelled to the town of Bernkastel-Kues around 12 kms away and spent a few hours exploring. The hub for river cruises, it was so busy with tourists. Really a great place and would like to have stayed longer but it was now 4pm and was time to head back.

Village of Bernkastel- Kues with vineyards in the background

Cheated on the way back with a little help from my pedal assist electric bike but a real achievement for me. I envy Rob who looks so at ease on his bike.

Woke up to a foggy day, couldn’t see more than a metre or so into the river. Today was our special day – fifty years to the day we met and 45 years married. Our anniversary and the real reason for trying to find somewhere special to celebrate.

Rob and Krys celebrating 50 years together in Zeltingen

Zeltingen has many rose gardens in the Main Street and right outside Ziggy was a rose bush with one red rose in bloom – quickly picked and placed on the table for breakfast.

Or maybe this is Rob and Krys celebrating 50 years in Zeltingen

The fog lifted and the most beautiful blue cloudless sky replaced it. Set off on foot after lunch to explore the town and to find a restaurant with atmosphere for tonight. The twin villages of Zeltingen and Rachtig join at a bridge on the Moselle and both had restaurants to look at. Long story short, after 2 hours of walking, the Spanish restaurant we were keen on closed last year, so good excuse to stop at the replacement and have a pint before returning back to Ziggy.

Couldn’t find one with real atmosphere but had a great meal and some super local wine. The menus here have two pages of food choices and 10 pages of wine selections.

Sunday 15th October

Headed off early next morning, with fog thicker than the day before.

The temperatures have been so much milder over the last few days, we are hoping for more of the same. All the prime places along this river are full of German motorhomes and by midday, most are full to capacity. Bit like at home, where most of the retired people travel before or after school holidays.

Our campsite for tonight Sonninsel, Minheim

Fog still thick when we arrived here, it was difficult to see any view. Within a couple of hours it lifted and again another magnificent cloudless blue sky appeared.

Our front row view of coal barge at Minheim on the Mosel

Again took off on the bikes for hours only stopping along the way for refreshments before heading off again on one of the prettiest stretches of river and villages to date.

Our waterfront watering hole at Piesport on the Mosel with Krys donning bike helmet on the left

Watched a Viking ship full of guests make their way along the river at Piesport.

Lots of walkers, bikers and past a wedding venue where guests strolled along the paths past beautiful riverfront homes, restaurants and vineyards.

Didn’t realise till now how much you wouldn’t see if you didn’t have a bike.

Monday 16th October

Again a foggy day, we headed up the mountain into still heavier fog. Couldn’t see much at all but eager with anticipation of another beautiful day ahead.

Our campsite for tonight: Reisemobilpark, Saarburg

We have left the Moselle River now with the intention of heading west towards England. Ziggy is booked in on 31st October for service and MOT so with only two weeks to go, we need to travel toward France or Belgium soon.

Once leaving the Moselle, we travel through uninteresting large industrial towns until we arrive here on the Saar River. The fog is lifting and we are again blessed with picture perfect blue skies.

Off with the bikes and again after a few kms decide to cross the river into the village of Saarburg. What a surprise – an old town with a castle and waterfalls running through the Main Street.

Our lunch venue in Saalburg on the Saar River

Restaurants on both sides of the waterfalls and all fully packed out on Monday for lunch – would you believe! After locking the bikes, we became part of the scene and enjoyed a super lunch before heading back for a well deserved rest.

Waterfalls through the middle of town and right next to the restaurants

10/08/2017 Bike riding on the Rhine

Sunday, 8th October

Heading towards the Rhine Valley now. Our angels from Waldsee Therme – Rolf and Agnes, highly recommended doing the right side of the Rhine heading toward The Netherlands – most picturesque they said. So we are headed in this direction.

Still drizzling today but from experience, the weather patterns change many times during the day.

Our campsite for tonight: WellMobilPark, Bad Schonborn

Some sort of Roman chariot art work – about the only item we found worthwhile in Bad Schonborn

An interim stop only and apart from the Therme nothing this town has to offer in the form of interest or architecture. Spent a couple of hours wandering around the town with very little open. Had the worst hot chocolate and coffee in a little bakery/cafe where all the locals were eating massive slices of yummy looking but unhealthy cakes and sweets.

Had an argument with the camping fuhrer (everybody is some sort of fuhrer here) such a bad word – conjures up images of Hitler for me. Purchased a 24 hour Internet connection for 1 euro which we thought was great value. Our first mistake was to check on the iPhone to make sure it worked then logged out and tried to connect to the iPad. Fuhrer omitted to tell us that the password worked on one device only and was not interchangeable. Long story short after a heated discussion, they gave us another password and we happily connected to the computer and used massive amounts of Internet for the rest of this miserable rainy day.

Monday 9th October

Definitely needed to find something special today as the last 24 hours we have travelled through a lot of industrial areas with not much to see.

Our campsite for tonight: Reismobilstellplatz, Bacharach am Rhein

One campsite was front row on the Rhine but was packed quite early. Seems like the locals are still out in full force with most motorhomes having German number plates.

Too cold to go riding as again overcast and windy so headed into the small village. Named the Medieval Village, it did not take long to see why.

The buildings were just so unbelievably old (but beautifully restored old). Very busy touristy area but really special and a must to visit. The bricked arches with medieval towers atop were at each entry point to the town.

Behind arches were narrow cobbled streets with amazing old structures and vineyards climbing from there to the steep hills above. The obligatory castle overlooking all of this. Such an amazing place.

Tuesday 10th October

So much to see and so many fairytale towns along both sides of the Rhine. Castle after castle perched high on the hills overlooking these towns and vineyards in between.

Couldn’t get into Koblenz as it was fully packed out. Only a small Stellplatz for 10 motorhomes but ideally located to sightsee Koblenz. Have very fond memories of Koblenz from previous trip and the town has grown substantially. Such a shame we couldn’t get in there.

Our campsite for tonight: Kranchen, Lahnstein/Koblenz

Drove a few kms out of Koblenz and found this great campsite right on the Rhine River. Magic spot with only a bikeway and green lawn down to the river. The view across the Rhine is of a pretty little town which is overlooked by a fairytale castle. The Rhine is busy all day with river cruise boats and barges – the height of activity. The hills adorned with rows and rows of vineyards now changing colour to the Autumn shades. Would have been absolutely wonderful to have some sun but again a dreary overcast day.

Headed for the bikeway and travelled for around 25klms along the river. The bikeways are littered with Autumn leaves and the scenery along the way just so special. Finding it hard to get enough practice on the bikes – too long between rides so I feel like a beginner each time. Doesn’t bother the locals who seem to go out in all conditions. Bike riding is a way of life here and I am so jealous of the confidence these people have on the bikes even riding on busy one lane roads.

Highly recommended spot if you can’t get into Koblenz.

Wednesday 11th October and Thursday 12th October

Travelled along the Rhine forever. Village after village and castle after castle each worthy of several photos. Decided to move away from the Rhine and head toward the Moselle River. There were so many camping spots along the way to choose from and all are directly waterfront with so many priced at a small 7-10 euros. It was difficult to make a choice.

Our campsite for two nights: Moselufer, Reil

Beautiful spot again right on the river. Extremely busy with mostly German motorhomes. It is quite amazing to see other people’s reactions to a motorhome with GB number plates. Sometimes feel like we have two heads the way that they stare at us and we are ignored until they learn we are from Australia – their attitude towards us then seems to change.

We have now been challenged 3 times about Brexit until we tell people we are from Australia not the UK.

Walked through town in the afternoon. Very hilly with narrow cobble stoned streets. Most people in this region are wine makers or associated with them so there are many wine houses or wine stuhbles as they are called here all eager to sell you their wines.

On our bike ride – railway bridge in background and grape pickers van in foreground

The waterfront streets were extremely busy with walkers and bikers and many places to stop and eat or drink or just enjoy the view.

Along came a tractor pulling a passenger cart with about 8 people sitting at white clothed tables sightseeing and wine tasting in the cart as they moved along – couldn’t believe it and just wanted to capture this on film but just too slow.

At the entry to the campsite, there was a small cafe open all hours and was the meeting point for the large number of motorhomers in the camp. Great place to get local knowledge.

A resting place in the vineyards on our bike ride

Took advantage of a reasonable day and headed off on the bikes. The bikeways were excellent and took us through many vineyards and villages – just what we were looking for. Stopped along the way and watched as the grape pickers carried large buckets up and down the steep hills to the sorters who stood on the backs of trucks, separating the grapes from the stems – very labour intensive. Even saw one of their trucks with a porta loo on the back!

Rode for in excess of 25 kms – longest ride yet and can’t describe how super it was – can really understand why everybody here spends so much time riding. Two + hours later came home happy, tired and with sore parts that I never knew I had.

10/04/2017 awash with wine on the German/French border

Wednesday 4th & Thursday 5th October

Weather has not been good for a few days now. Some rain during most days and it is getting colder each day. Can understand why many Stellplatz close at end of September. Maximum does not go above mid teens now and minimum most nights is single figures. Our Doona is really warm and cosy so nights are not yet a problem, though might invest in flannelette sheets soon. Still looking for slippers for Rob.

Gas heating works a charm so the odd blast of hot air is really appreciated from time to time to warm things up quickly.

Our campsite for two nights: Reisemobilpark Turm & Kristelle, Dietingen/Rottweil

With one of the highways closed near our destination, NAVIE took us right through the middle of Rottweil. The centre of town is a real picture. The camera came out and happily snapped whenever we could to capture the wonderfully colourful and restored historic buildings.

Just outside Rottweil stands the 246m high ThyssenKrupp Tower, Germany’s highest observation deck. Currently under refurbishment so could not take the lift to the top.

A typical German user pays terminal which can take 8 power leads – for 50c you get 1 kw 0f power – wake up caravan parks in Australia

Dietingen is only 3 kms away from Rottweil with a wide bikeway between the two towns. The Stellplatz is only a short walk to the small town and houses the mineral and Fossils Museum “World of Crystals” at one end. Really well set up Stellplatz in a rural setting. Museum is only open a couple of days a week and only for a couple of hours.

The Internet speed was excellent (has been hard to find anywhere) so took advantage whilst it was raining. Really quaint little town with well kept large homes, a church and a couple of businesses. Pretty much an outer suburb of Rottweil. It was bitterly cold and the wind was so strong we opted not to do the bike ride into Rottweil.

Friday 6th October & Saturday 7th October

Still wet and cold when we left and drove most of the way through rain squalls.

Traffic was horrendous with roadworks and stop start traffic particularly through the main towns. Should have taken no more than two hours but took more than three.

What a find this place is.

Our campsite for two nights: Weingut/Weinstube Geiger, Dierbach

Just on the outskirts of this little village, set behind a Winery, there are five level terraces with large spots overlooking acres and acres of vineyards. For €10 per night you got a coupon to the value of €4 to spend on wine or food in the restaurant which is only open on Friday and Saturday nights, free electricity and water and grey and black water disposal. Internet is also free but you can only get this on the first and second level terraces which were fully booked out by a group.

Sat in the bar and did some wine tasting during the afternoon. Wine cost was so inexpensive and the quality was excellent. A really good white priced at €3 for a one litre bottle and a little more for a great red. Several to choose from to suit all taste buds.

Though our cellar was really full, we bought 6 of each and a couple of their cream coffee liqueurs for €9.

Just had to have dinner there as well – a real hoot. Restaurant opened at 6pm and was fully booked out by 6.05pm. Best guess around 80 Germans, eating, drinking and singing in their best voices accompanied by two piano accordions. Dinner was traditional German cuisine with most dishes made of pork, roast potatoes and of course sauerkraut. Even The Driver ate the sauerkraut. I think we left around 10pm and the place was still packed.

Ventured into the small town for a walk mid morning. Lots of other places in town offering wine tasting but very little else apart from homes, some accommodation, a town hall and sporting field.

Came back for lunch but soon after the rain came down again so the bike ride through the vineyards was postponed.

Typical German road side honesty box for eggs and other local produce

Took the opportunity to do some long needed washing and housework but enjoyed the tranquility and picturesque view of the long lines of grape vines spreading out over the hills in front and to the side of us.

Had such a good time last night, just had to go back to restaurant again. Walked across at 6.00pm only to see two buses parked outside. You guessed it- not a spare inch inside. Sadly headed back to Ziggy, opened up a bottle of our best white, turned on the iPod and conjured up a good curry – had a great night and thought about going across later to have a glass of wine – the rain came down again so that was the end of that.

Next morning our wine was delivered to our door by a little red truck (Door to door delivery) how good is that! Packed up and left in the rain.

Definitely highly recommended, particularly on weekends – but be in the bar before 6pm to get a seat.

09/30/2017 – Bad Waldsee Germany – the home of Motorhomes

Saturday 30th September

Now slowly heading north west back towards the UK as we are required to be back there before late November for our MOT, our vehicle annual inspection.

Our bike cover is now nearly in tatters and we have been looking for a new cover since we left Poland.

There are not many motorhomes in Poland and it was very difficult to find any motorhome dealers there.

Austria had dealers but most only stocked the Fiamma bike cover which only lasted us a couple of months before the zip failed – very inferior zips and material.

Whilst driving we saw a massive motorhome dealership in the distance and hurrah found the cover we had been trying to find – and there was only one in stock.

The staff could not speak English but assured us it was the one for our bike racks. We were just so happy!!!

Our campsite for the night: Brauhaus Ummendorff

Great little spot in a small town at the back of a boutique brewery and on a waterway with mother duck and the whole family eager to eat some of the bread we were offering. Free campsite with no requirement to have a meal.

One of those rare magic days, so we happily discarded the old bike cover and put it in the bin. The bikes came off and we set off through town to the bikeway and travelled about 16 klm through little villages and lots of farmland. Dark clouds started to appear over the horizon so headed back. The couple of hours biking were wonderful with not too many hills to climb.

Attached to the brewery is the Brauhaus restaurant and bar. Had to reward ourselves with a pint of the local stuff in the beer garden and were entertained by a group of young men (beginning part of a bucks party). The rain made everyone in the beer garden duck for cover.

Some good local brew with the buck’s party in the background on the right

Finished the evening with their homemade goulash soup (mmm very tasty) before making a dash to Ziggy. The christening of the new bike cover would have to wait till morning.

Sunday, Monday & Tuesday 1st – 3rd October

It didn’t take us long to work out that no way was this bike cover going to fit the bikes and the Fiamma bike racks. We did not try to fit it at the shop as we were double parked and too eager to move away – our big mistake. Cost around €50 and was too far to go back now – double ugh!!! Lesson learned now. Packed up the bike cover. Typical problem now – how do you fold something large, neatly and have it fit back in the small box it came in? Took about an hour and eventually looked like it had never been taken out of the box.

Campsite for 3 nights: Waldsee-Therme, Bad Waldsee

Arrived mid afternoon in the home town of Erwin Hymer of Hymer Motorhome fame . Hymers everywhere. We had visited the Hymer showroom on the way in but couldn’t get a park anywhere near it. Decided to visit it tomorrow.

Bad Waldsee was a lovely traditional village

Parked Ziggy in one of the largest pitches we had come across. Enough room for two motorhomes. There were 50 spots but sure you could double that number there was so much room. Really well laid out and very popular. Went off to pay at the parking machine and came back to a grinning, pointing Rob – almost directly across from us, Michael and Pam’s motorhome was parked. Had no idea they were coming here and they were as surprised as we were when they returned from the Bad Waldsee Therme Resort. Another big night ahead, we think.

It was unusual to see 2 Hymers next to each other both with GB plates and Aussie stickers – a little bit of home sickness crept in – just for a second.

Went for a walk into town as we had plans of leaving here in the morning and visiting the Hymer Museum and then the showroom to look at the latest Hymers on the market and then moving on. The town is set between two waterways and again really interesting buildings.

Arrived back and soon joined Michael and Pam for another great night. Discovered we had travelled to many of the same places, so never stopped to draw breath.

They had to leave early next morning, so we said our goodbyes.

Went to the Hymer Museum – really interesting, with three floors of vintage cars, caravans and motorhomes from all around the world. Really well done and for only a few Euros. Spent a couple of hours there and then headed back to the showroom.

Early model Morris Oxford motorhome – painted in Brirish racing green and federation cream

A very upmarket BMW powered motorhome with a mezzanine floor for sun bathing

We bought a new bike cover after taking about two hours and doing a degree in “brochure reading in German” to try to fit it. We have now bought 3 bike covers in 7 months – 1 demolished, 1 that doesn’t fit and one that does fit!

Too late now to head out of town so we go back to the same Stellplatz in Bad Waldsee. Being a long weekend in Germany, the Stellplatz was full as expected. We decided to wait, it was late and we didn’t want to travel at night so we parked at the entry and ate our very, very, late lunch. Other motorhomes came and parked behind us – all with the same thought.

Our angels in disguise, Rolf and Agnes (Germans from near Düsseldorf) came over and told us, that they and their neighbours would move and make room for us – three motorhomes in a space for two – what a lovely gesture. When we settled, we took over a bottle of NZ Marlborough Sav Blanc and then sat and talked for hours. We talked about both of our many adventures and the bike covers and long story short, they had been looking for a cover for their bikes, so we opened our repackaged box and fitted the cover. A perfect fit! They happily bought it and everyone was happy.

They are travelling to Spain early next year so we hope to catch up with them there. Thank you so very much, Rolf and Agnes for helping us out.

It was raining next morning and as it was a public holiday, we decided to stay for another day. So we said our goodbyes and moved Ziggy to another spot. Weather began to clear so we spent another few hours walking and exploring and finishing in the town centre with an ice cream for me and a pint for Rob.

09/27/2017 – To the Top of The Tyrol

GERMANY

Wednesday 27th and Thursday 28th September

We are planning to meet up with fellow Australian travellers, Michael and Pam who are currently in Austria on their fourth trip in their Hymer and so we are now headed towards Innsbruck to find a good overnight site.

Found a campsite in Innsbruck which was very busy but quickly decided we did not want to stay here – prefer the country so set off again after some lunch.

Had planned to get fuel in Innsbruck but forgot and soon we were on the motorway where prices are regularly .3 Euro (45 cents) a litre dearer.

We climbed higher and higher through some unbelievably magnificent scenery but were concerned when the Low Fuel light came on.

Got stuck behind a tractor going uphill for quite a few Kms and felt the pressure mounting as going uphill in Ziggy in second gear chews up fuel quickly.

Finally got to the top and breathed a sigh of relief as we headed downhill topped up with fuel and Ziggy happily continued on.

Our campsite for two nights: Karwendel, Mittenwald – Germany

Crossed the border from Austria in to Germany, though you wouldn’t know it.

Had heard that Germany had stepped up border patrols and were no longer allowing refugees in. No sign of a border patrol on this secondary road here though.

Wow, Mittenwald is the most amazing little village set at the bottom of a mountain with the second highest mountain cable car lift in Germany just a short walk away. The Stellplatz allows for 20 Motorhomes and was quite full with only a couple of spots available.

We had passed through the village on the way to the Stellplatz and couldn’t wait to explore it.

The prettiest village we have come to so far. Difficult to describe. The facades of many of the village houses are decorated with murals dating back to the 18th century. Most of the colourful and artistic frescoes are based on biblical themes. Every house looked new, fresh and colourful.

Dropped into the tourist office and picked up some brochures. There are some fabulous walks at the top of the mountains to explore – maybe tomorrow.

Did our favourite thing after a long walk – stopped in the village, had a beer and watched the passing tourist traffic before heading home for a well deserved rest.

Saved a spot next to Ziggy for Michael and Pam who were arriving lunchtime so took the time to catch up on emails, pay bills and upload some blog info. Internet has been woeful in Austria – so slow – and chewing up the GBs as if they were MBs. Think the Govt here must have shares (or own) the internet companies. A short half hour on the web just sending emails and doing some research took up about 3GBs. Think we might run out of our 10 GBs before the end of the month.

Michael and Pam arrived after lunch and the hours just rushed by with copious glasses of wine consumed, travelling stories exchanged with much laughter and finally a break to show them this most beautiful town.

Back for a BBQ and a bottle of well aged champagne (Pam had been waiting four years to drink this with someone – luckily me) and more wine, liqueurs and finishing with chocolates. Just such a fabulous night with a parting promise to work off the calories tomorrow with some exercise.

No headaches, or hangovers next morning but not an early start!

Friday 29th September

We met with Michael and Pam again in the morning, donned some cold weather gear and hiking boots and headed towards the cable car.

Michael and Pam with us at the top of the Cable Car ride

Where we stayed overnight was only 930 metres above sea level with no snow at this time of the year, however, the top of the cable car is 2244 metres with snow and then on the hiking trails heights of over 2350 metres are reached.

The views from the top are great and get better the further up the hiking trails you climb.

Krys looking back towards the top of the Cable Car

Michael and Pam both had Nordic walking sticks and were able to manage the more difficult sections much better than Krys and I without the sticks so I think we may be purchasing some sticks before future walks.

Michael and Pam with their Nordic walking sticks

We reluctantly descended back to our Hymers, said our goodbyes and headed off in different directions.

We headed off towards Blaichach to catch up with our Dutch friends whom we met at the Polish campsite “Bumerang” in the first four weeks of this trip – Marie-Louise and Robert. They are also regular motorhome travellers and have been communicating regularly with us.

Again the motorways were smooth and easy driving and we look in awe at the colourful Autumn landscapes around every corner. Leaves dropping by the thousands with each gust of wind. The streets and paddocks covered with thousands of leaves of every colour and the trees now becoming barer each day as we head towards winter.

Our campsite for the night: Alpen-Rundblick – Blaichach

Marie-Louise and Rob arrived late afternoon after visiting Oberstdorf nearby to get tickets for the German Ice Skating dance competitions on Saturday and Sunday. Travelling with them were Kazik and Jola who are the co owners of “Bumerang”. They were travelling in Spain when we visited Bumerang and it was great to meet with them this time.

Too much laughter and way too many vodkas (home brew moonshine with raspberries to make it healthy! ). Didn’t realise how strong they were until we stood up and headed back on unsteady feet.

Very popular campsite with the locals but quite expensive as apart from the 17€ per night fee, everything was extra including WC, shower and of course electricity. Lovely views across to the mountains and takes around 50 motorhomes.

Don’t think we would have been very popular with our neighbours as we partied on till around midnight.

It was a very interesting conversation as Marie-Louise and Robert are Dutch but have been living in Poland for quite a few years and Kazik and Jola are Polish but we were all speaking in German with Marie-Louise and Robert helping out with the translations when our German let us down, which seemed to increase the more moonshine we had.

09/22/2017 Austria – Just Beautiful

Friday 22nd September – Our campsite for tonight: Fritzbauer – Saalfelden

Around 25kms from Grossglockner to this little farm Stellplatz. The farmers wife was just delightful and not long after we met the farmer. He certainly was a real character.

Only a small Stellplatz but for €12 it included electricity so again took advantage to give batteries a boost. Parking areas were mainly grass and given the amount of rain we have had over the last week, we were reluctant to park here. The farmer agreed we could park next to the barn on gravel.

The farmer had a typically beautiful Austrian style house

Saturday 23rd September & Sunday 24th September

Woke up to the sounds of cattle mooing, donkey braying, and roosters crowing!!! Didn’t realise that we were parked next to the animal shed – chuckle, chuckle. This was a real farm and upon opening the door got a strong whiff of fresh air strongly perfumed with bovine essence – nothing like country fresh air.

Walked into the shed to have a look and there were at least 15 cows and one very vocal donkey in there. Often wondered why they had such large sheds attached to their very large houses in these villages – now understand that animals need a place to stay during the colder months and at night.

Passed through so many areas where we have skied. So many memories. The beautiful town of Zell Am See- one of our favourite spots. They certainly have grown over the years and are packed even now before the start of the real ski season. Don’t believe there is a low season here as the ski resort camp spots are really expensive compared to the country spots.

We have met many people in our travels and when asked which country is their favourite – 90% say either Austria or Norway. During some of our late at night discussions, we too have agreed that Austria is a place we could happily live in (apart from home that is).

Both our daughters want to come to Europe early next year to see us and we think Austria might be the place to catch up and do some skiing – so many beautiful places, it will be hard to make a final decision.

Our campsite for two nights: Panorama Gasthof Friedburg, Neukirchen am Grossvenediger

Saw this one in the Parkings APP and just had to come here. The view is more than spectacular.

Perched high on the mountain, it overlooks snow capped mountains and beautiful valleys. Saw hang gliders soaring over the mountains – counted 20 at one time. Colourful chutes passing through fluffy white clouds, up and down they went carried by the thermal currents. What a buzz it would be.

Picture does not do the view justice – it was stunning

The Gasthof itself is really quaint with a dining area inside and outside (when weather is warmer) overlooking this beautiful view. The cost is only €8 per night but a discount of €5 is offered if you have dinner in the restaurant.

Ziggy is perched in the front row and in our deck chairs we sit and take in this amazing view until the sun goes over the mountain. Then inside in the front seats with a hot toddy until dinner time where we just had to check out the view from the restaurant. Another free night for the cook.

Rained during the night so our thoughts of staying on and doing some of the mountain walks diminished somewhat. Best wait till morning to make that decision.

Some of the quirky decorations in the Gasthof where we had dinner

Not a good looking day and damp underfoot but rain has stopped. Weather seems to brighten as the days go on so hoped this would be the case. Had a late breakfast/brunch and headed off for the walk early afternoon. Over 3kms – all a steep downhill run – what a breeze!! Passed fields with sheep, goats and cows – with bells on. Sounded like a small orchestra played with cow bells or was it the Hari Krishna – quite cute.

Stopped for a break for coffee and resisted the numerous fabulous cakes begging to be consumed.

The hike uphill took five times as long as the downhill run – should have had the cake – certainly would have worked off all those calories. Dropped two layers on the way up and probably a thousand calories but walking through the forest was so green, fresh and invigorating.

Quiet night I think, and hopefully no aching bones in the morning.

Monday 25th September

No aching bones this morning which was a surprise.

The roads are so wonderful, it is a pleasure driving. With Autumn here now, the forests have changed from emerald green to all the Autumn shades of golden, orange, pink red and brown. We are only travelling short distances now, as there is so much to see here. Every little village is just so beautiful and we stop at many along the way.

Our campsite for the night: Womo Stellplarz Fischergries, Kufstein

Kufstein is on the border between Austria and Germany and we crossed into Germany to do some last minute shopping before parking back in Austria for the night. Dropped into Lidl and have to say this is the cheapest Lidl we have been to for wines and spirits. Our favourite Marlborough Sav Blanc has been around $10 everywhere else but here only $6. Captain Morgan rum 700ml $7.50 – can you believe it. Needless to say we bought heaps of alcohol and a little food 😊.

Yes another castle – there are hundreds around here

The campsite is in a very large carpark attached to a massive sporting complex with sporting fields all around. Only a small area dedicated for motorhomes. There were no spots available at first so we patiently waited until we could squeeze into a spot. The area was well away from the sports complex so had a really enjoyable quiet evening.

Tuesday 26th September

Took a walk across the bridge and along the riverbank to the town centre. A very small old town which we wandered into and enjoyed a cuppa.

Found a pair of slippers in a local shop that did not cost the earth. Not what I would buy at home, but no one is here to laugh at them. None for the driver yet and we were even thinking of getting a larger size like mine but unfortunately did not have any large enough. He looked like one of the three sisters in Cinderella trying to squeeze into the golden slipper!

One of the many lanes where we went shopping

Headed off again mid morning and stopped in Hopfgarten and Soll – two of our favourite skiing towns on past trips. Soll is just so beautiful and the gondola is already operating, though there was no snow on this side of the mountain. The Gasthaus we stayed in at Hopfgarten has been demolished and replaced with a massive apartment complex. Such a shame but that’s progress.

Our campsite for the night: Koenigveldplatz, Schwaz

Again a mixed parking Stellplatz with spaces for around 10 motorhomes. Just across the bridge again from the centre of the village, a very quiet area with views across paddocks to the mountains.

Made some friends with our MoHo neighbours – one from Sweden and the other a local Austrian man on his own. Really enjoyed their company and shared many travel experiences with them. The Austrian chap gave a present – a handmade candle mounted on a marble stone from the local area – what a lovely thought.

Schwaz also has an old town and a beautiful church at the end of it. Set on the side of a hill, we walked up and up and took in the beautiful views before coming back down to Old Town and then back home for another quiet night.

09/19/2017 Gearing up for the Grossglockner High Alpine Road

Tuesday 19th & Wednesday 20th September

Travelled through more rain today so decided to take the motorway. Low cloud at times caused a few issues with visibility. We have been climbing quite rapidly and the scenery continues to be spectacular.

Our camp for 2 nights: Kellerbauer Wohnmobile Site, Altenmarkt Im Pongau

This place is highly rated and only a short km from centre of Altenmarkt. A rural setting with great facilities, though no shower which is not a problem with us as we prefer to shower in Ziggy. Internet was excellent. Decided to stay until the rain cleared as we are keen to put another tick against our bucket list and hit the Grossglockner high alpine road but only on a fine day with good visibility.

Had a huge dump of snow on surrounding mountains overnight so the temperatures came down to single figures. Have not been connected to electricity to fully top up the batteries for over 3 weeks now but the cold snap caused some concern with our batteries so opted to use electricity on night two to give the batteries a good deep charge. Ziggy’s electronics panel gave us a warning and on checking the manual were informed that it is normal to get this type of warning if the batteries have not been fully charged in the last 20 days.

They have lovely fresh farm eggs and wine (either red or white) one of each to choose from so bought a bottle of the house red – 1 ltr for the huge sum of €4. Was very young but no sharp edges. Didn’t buy a second bottle to take with us!!!!!

Still think New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs are some of the best whites anywhere in the world and are finding it difficult to find reds that we really like.

Piggy bumped in to Ziggy and she rocked back and forth

Tried to make friends with the local pet black rabbit (scared as a rabbit) and tried to feed the pet pig – blind in one eye. He ran into Ziggy a couple of times and refused to eat the lettuce and carrot we offered him but he did scare the old lady in the Moho next to us – who ran when he blindly made advances in her direction.

Took time out on day two to visit downtown (took Ziggy for a run as the weather was horrid). Really great little town – bought two pairs of warm outdoor/snow boots – one for driver and one for the navigator. Forgot to pack these in Oz and have been suffering with cold feet for a while now. Still looking for the illusive pair of slippers for indoors – don’t have a KMart or Target here so have not been able to find reasonable pair for under $100. Still angry we didn’t buy these in Poland.

Thursday 21st September

Still raining when we left, however, the long range forecast for Grossglockner was some sun on Friday and Saturday so opted to get as close as possible until the weather cleared.

Bought a new vignette as ours ran out today – another 10 days in Austria – crying shame – just love it here. Arrived in town of Bruck at the northern end of Grossglockner and weather was just clearing. Decided to head towards the toll gates at the start of the road for more information – only a few kms away. There is a huge carpark at the entry where fellow travellers have parked for the night so hoped to stay there for the night.

I have a huge amount of still and video images of the Grossglockner and have published just a few. When I have more time and more Sim Card Data I hope to publish the videos on You Tube and will provide a link for my You Tube Channel

Because of the huge dump of snow the night before, the pass had been closed but reopened just before we got there. With the help and information of the beautiful lady at the info counter, we decided to take a day ticket for€35 and do the road today. The road is only 48kms long and for a day pass you can do it as many times as you want. We left from the northern end with the hope of being able to get to the bottom and return in the same day.

We took advantage of so many places along the way to stop and take photos and extended the trip by going to Franz Josef Glacier along the way – really, really worth the extra mileage.

Words and photos can’t explain the beauty of this region. The numerous hairpin bends left the driver totally focused on getting us around each corner whilst I enjoyed the view though the eye of the camera – absolutely stunning!.

Snow plough on the job in mid September???

So much snow the night before kept the snow ploughs busy and they were still operating on different parts of the pass during our adventure. A white snowy fairy wonderland, mile after mile. The camera just didn’t stop trying to capture every moment.

We didn’t have enough time to do the return trip today, so found a great stop for the night just outside the southern end of the Grossglockner toll gates. A return trip on any consecutive day is only €11 or you can take a monthly pass for €55. They certainly get you for the day pass only but it is really so worth it.

Navigator and Driver – below zero at midday in mid September

Our campsite for the night: Gasthaus Schwaiger – Mortschach

Half way between the toll gates and Lienz, we stopped at this Gasthaus. There is no cost to stay in the carpark which allows for 4 motorhomes. Really great little place so just had to have a night off cooking – great menu at a very reasonable price. So much food, we waddled back to Ziggy and sadly went to bed on a full stomach – very uncomfortable and really bad for the waistline – disappearing quickly now!!!!

Friday 22nd September

Had to fill up on auto gas so continued down to Lienz. Not many spots in Austria to get auto gas and they are hard to find as not available in most service stations.

Straight back up the mountain and back through the toll gates to do a south to north run at Grossglockner.

The beautiful lady at the northern end of the pass informed us of an Oldtimers Car Race being held late afternoon today. A large section of this road would be closed from 3.30 to 5.30 pm so we were eager to find a good viewing area to watch the race before the crowds arrived.

Certainly steeper going up from south to north but both ways were just as spectacular. South to north necessitated a lot of second gear driving whilst north to south required much engine braking to give the brakes a breather.

Perfect blue skies today and we were just so pleased we opted to stay the extra day.

Stopped at the finish line at the top of the pass and parked Ziggy so we had a full view of all the cars coming toward the finish line and a good section of hairpin bends. Massive carpark and restaurant here and it filled up quickly.

There were 65 cars due to start including the following marques :- Bugatti, Lagonda, Alvis, Bentley, Marmon, Veritas, Borgward, MG, and of course my favourite marque – Porsche as well as many others.

There were also 2 Audi Auto Union 2 silver arrows one of which had a 16 cylinders rear mounted engine with dual rear wheels.

16 cylinder, rear engine, dual wheeled Audi Auto Union Silver Arrow

Moved out of Ziggy to get a better viewing point and sat in our deck chairs rugged up in three layers – plus coats, beanies, gloves and rugs – it was so cold out there. The closer to the start of the race, the colder it got as the blue skies disappeared and the clouds came over and then the wind.

Everyone braved the cold to see the race but quickly left when the roads re opened to allow us all to get back down the mountain.