Blogs - Page 4 of 14 - Aussie European Tour

2018/06/11 – Germany – Glockenspiel, Frauenkirche, Karistor and Isator

Monday 11th June

Needed to get some spare parts for the window struts for Ziggy so Der Freistaat, Sulzemoos, was highly recommended by Gunnar and Anna.

Our campsite for tonight: Der Freistaat, Sulzemoos (near Munich) – GPS 48.281799N 11.261300E

Certainly not tree or sea change but basic parking area for Mohos and caravans for up to three nights gratis. Has services for small change.

This place is huge and has a sales showroom, shop with every conceivable thing you could wish for to deck out your new moho and spare parts. Service areas for several Moho brands including Hymer.

The staff in the shop and service areas were absolutely fabulous and so helpful and spoke excellent English. The service department provided us with two new struts for both the large windows which were becoming increasing difficult to stay open on their hinges. Took about 15 minutes for us to replace both.

Stayed here for the night amongst a full car park of Mohos and again the tropical storm came in right on cue at 4pm. Highly recommended as a stopover to replace parts and service. This place is massive.

Tuesday – Thursday, 12th- 14th June

Our campsite for three nights: Allianz Arena, Munich – GPS 48.221851N 11.624720E

Allianz Arena at night

We had such a great time in Munich during a previous trip, decided to come back again.

What a magic football stadium – the outer circular walls looking like a huge mass of bubbles and at night lit up a spectacular red. Buses come and go all day bringing in eager football fans to do a tour of the stadium.

Great separate facility for motorhomes and each day fully packed out by late evening.

Rained the day we arrived and continued on all day and well into the next day so took advantage of the great wifi and waited for the weather to clear. Did a walk around this great stadium but got a drenching so headed back to dry off.

Set off early next morning to the UBahn station located on the other side of the stadium. Only a 15 minute brisk walk around the stadium or shorter if you cut through the stadium (only possible during opening hours).

Marienplatz – looking towards the New Town Hall & Glockenspiel

Picked up a Tage ticket (day ticket) for around €12.60 for both of us which gave us free travel on several types of transport until 6am following morning. Took the U6 line and 11 short stops later arrived at Marienplatz – right in the heart of Old Town Square.

Another view of the New Town Hall in Marienplatz

The square was abuzz with tourists and there was a queue at the tourist office there to pick up info on things to see and do.

Started with the Glockenspiel (or Carillon which it is now called) in the tower of the New Town Hall which attracted a square jam packed with spectators at 11am, 12 noon and 5pm.

A close up of the Gllockenspiel

The New Gothic Style Town Hall built during 1867-1909 is the most spectacular and is only one amongst so many wonderful structures around the square – Marienplatz rates highly in our top ten squares in Europe.

A view of Karistor

Spent six hours walking the streets. There are so many stunning churches in this part of the world and we thoroughly enjoyed going through the Frauenkirche Cathedral, St Peters Church (stunning interior), St Michaels Church and the Theatiner Church.

Most of the streets in centre of the Old Town are designated Pedestrian Only areas making it easy to get around trouble free – Literally hundreds of shops line these streets.

The two separate entrance Gates to the Old City built in the 14th century – Karistor and Isartor are decorated with colourful frescos and are imposing entrances to a magic Old Town.

So many more places that we visited that should be mentioned but are not as there is not enough room to mention them all.

Could not resist a litre or two of beer and a Weiner Schnitzel at the Hofbrauhas – a real icon and a must do while in Munich.

Looking towards the Hofbrauhaus

The traditional Bavarian band set the scene as waiters dressed in lederhosen and serving maids dressed in traditional German gear served stein after stein of beer (sometimes three steins in each hand) to the hundreds in the beer hall – what a hoot!. We ate lunch here in 1978 and it is still just as impressive, even though a tad expensive.

Nothing like a litre of dunkel Bier in the Hofbrauhaus

The Viktualienmarkt just outside the Old City was a diners delight with street after street offering everything and anything you could want to eat with table and chairs in outside areas set up under shady trees.

The location of the campsite and its proximity to the UBarn made the visit to Munich so easy.

Friday – Saturday, 15-16th June

Our campsite for two nights: Waldbad, Gunzburg – GPS 48.462791N 10.269360E

This is basically a swimming and water park set in acres of forest trees with large expanses of lush green lawn where people lie in the sun after swimming or enjoying the water slides. Beach volleyball courts and areas large enough to kick a football are also within this park. Bit cold for us to swim in but lots of the moho people here took advantage.

Entry gate to Gunzburg

The community has set up this beautiful little spot for several Mohos where there is only a wire fence between us and the Waldbad – such a serene view and so very quiet given the water activities which are quite a way in the distance.

Gunzburg street scene

Gunzburg is only a ten minute walk from the campsite, and also a bike path runs by the campsite and leads into the Old Town which is quite hilly in the town area itself. Had to leave the bikes at the entry to the Mall which is “Pedestrian Only area” and enjoyed the short but beautiful Main Street here – again dotted with restaurants where the locals filled the tables.

Walked the bikes until out of the hilly village and took a path running along the Danube which was not as pretty and mostly gravel so gave up after about an hour and returned back to our lovely setting in the forest. Many of the bikini clad maidens stayed until the sun went down. The driver commented on the wonderful eye candy – bet he was not the only one.

Had two great nights enjoying an outside BBQ using our Cadac, which has been fabulous to use. The sun does not disappear until around 9pm here so there is lots of outside time to be enjoyed sipping wine, eating and listening to our iPod music. The salmon was super delicious – that is something coming from this navigator who is not a real lover of fish. Wrapped in alfoil, coated with a light oil, onion rings and tomato slices and gently cooked and turned for several minutes – yummy!

This place is very popular and was full by early afternoon with extra Mohos parked outside the gates overnight.

Sunday 17th June

The roads and auto barns are super and we pass by those continuing rolling green hills and farm land. It makes every day seem like a trip into the country where you end up feeling on top of the world and refreshed.

Our campsite for tonight: Stadhalle, Riedlingen – GPS 48.151699N 9.478080E

This is just a gratis parking area but right beside the Danube again (smaller tributary though) where there is a bike path again to explore.

Saw lots of people coming from a particular direction so thought it might be markets. We walked right bang smack into a the annual Fish Festival where the Schwabische Altback Musikanten band of 10 or so horn players entertained the crowd while cooks treated the crowd to meals of fresh trout and Zander fillets (was a fish festival after all).

Riedlingen Fire Brigade House

When in Rome – so again this non fish loving navigator had to try the Zander – highly recommended by my driver. Was delicious with the German made potato salad adding the extras.

Riedlingen architecture

Sat with a lovely family of three and engaged in a total German conversation. Here in Germany we rarely come across someone who does not speak English. Most that do speak English want to practice their English on us so we speak German and they speak English – very amusing but it is what makes our trip so worthwhile – the people.

Riedlingen street scene

In this area (Baden Wurttenberg) many people speak Schwabisch which is a special German dialect which other German speakers may not necessarily understand.

Waddled out after a couple of beers and lunch into the Old Town which is a short walk across a small bridge. With each corner we came across another set of delightfully restored three storey Bavarian style buildings. Being Sunday not a lot was open except of course restaurants and ice cream parlours. Everyone was enjoying these sweet treats but lunch left us too full to even contemplate one.

Riedlingen architecture

Back to Ziggy where we chatted with our German neighbour. An old man travelling alone after losing his wife a few years back. Loves the travel and meeting people. Said it was his only option now since losing his wife – how sad for him but he said – better to travel than to just sit and wait for his time to go.

Only had room for a glass of wine before lights out and slept like a baby.

2018/06/01 – The Eagles Nest – Hitlers Summer House

GERMANY

Friday 1st June

Our first camp selection was closed as the Gasthaus had had a serious fire and was cordoned off.

Took another hour and another border crossing to our next stop. Straight through the border with only a sign to indicate we were back in Germany. No vignettes in Germany which is a treat.

Our campsite for tonight: Gotschenalm, Bischofswiesen – GPS 47.648312N 12.936930E

Plan was to find a place close enough to visit The Eagles Nest – Hitlers Summer House.

A great location right next to the ski lifts and a restaurant. The views across and down the valley were fabulous but we were in need of water so spent only one night here. There are no services here except the use of the restaurant and the WC.

Ski lift chairs stacked in the restaurant car park

The chairs from the ski lift had been taken down and were neatly stacked in the carpark ready to reassemble for the winter months. Brought back memories of our skiing days at Saalbach, Hinterglemm, Hopfgarten, Soll, and Obertauren as we looked at the big trail maps and talked for hours about past ski trips. Such wonderful memories.

Ah – dreaming of memories gone by but not to be this trip

Not a great day weather wise with light drizzle and a storm threatening so bunkered down until dinner time. There is a €10 cost plus local mountain tax of €2.60 each to stay here but you do get a voucher for €10 to spend in the restaurant within 24 hours. The driver had an upset tummy but still we ate what was a fabulous meal on the deck overlooking the ski runs.

Our view from the restaurant – empty ski runs

Saturday – Wednesday – 2nd – 6th June

Set off early next morning with my driver still unwell.

Our campsite for several nights: Reisemobilplatz Rasp, Oberau – GPS 47.651711N. 13.070550E

Another highly recommended spot for those wanting to visit the Eagles Nest.

The Stellplatz is high up in the mountains, again with a fabulous mountain and valley view. It has all the services and we quickly filled the water tanks and then spent the next few days waiting for the weather to clear enough to visit the Eagles Nest.

Our view from the campsite down towards Oberau

Met some Swedish Australians (Gunnar and Anna) who were eager to engage in lots of conversation. So interesting to hear their story. They live permanently in two motorhomes – one in Sydney and another which is Swedish registered but they leave in storage in Spain whilst they are in Australia. They spend six months in Australia and six months in Europe with much of their overseas travel spent in Germany – one of their favourite countries.

They have many more Aussie stickers, kangaroos, harbour bridges etc then we have which made us feel a little inadequate, Aussie wise.

Took a few days for the upset tummy to clear (not sure what he ate or drank to cause this) but with the weather predicting lots of storms and bad weather over the coming days, we took advantage of a reasonable day to head off to the Eagles Nest.

Drove Ziggy to the carpark in Obersaltsburg only about 5kms away and then booked the ticket for the buses to take us up to the Eagles Nest. They run every 25 minutes and cost around €33 for the two of us return and cover entry to the Eagles Nest. One cannot go up by car to the top but the very fit can walk it – not for these two little old ducks!

The scenery was more than spectacular as we climbed higher and higher until we were way above the clouds. Think this must be the top of the world, you could see forever in all directions.

On arrival at the entrance, we headed into a foot tunnel through the mountain (so cold) to an amphitheatre where a lift took us for a 42 second ride to the top.

Entrance to the horizontal tunnel which leads to the amphitheatre and lift

Another tick in the “bucket list” box as we explored the Eagles Nest which is now predominately a massive indoor and outdoor restaurant with a few rooms still in their original state.

Part of the outdoor restaurant before the crowds arrived

Driver and Navigator had to get in the scene somewhere

Given it is still not peak season, it was really crowded with people looking like ants scattered in and around the house and hillside adjoining.

A good German meal for the Navigator – roast pork, sauerkraut and dumplings – but not for the sick Driver

Enjoyed a great lunch on the deck overlooking the world!

Headed back to Oberau for the night.

Thursday – Sunday 7th – 10th June

From a tree change to a lake change as we headed for the Chiemsee which is one of the largest lakes in the district.

Our campsite for several nights: Wohnmobilstellplatz Bernau am Chiemsee

It is a new mobile home park that takes around 25 mobile homes only with no caravans or tents allowed. Only 6€ for 24 hours and all services provided with a small cost for showers. No internet unfortunately and don’t need electricity as the solar panels work exceptionally well and fully top up the batteries each day.

Such an excellent location only metres away from the lake where there are sailing boats, paddle boats, and everything that floats on water available for rental. Even have a ferry that does half and full day trips around the lake – it is huge.

Spent 4 fabulous hot days here just relaxing, reading and taking off on the bikes and exploring for a good part of each day. The bike trails go forever and the only thing that brings us back is a large thirst and the need to mingle with the locals. Both were satisfied at one or more of lakefront bars and restaurants.

Great “glasshouse” restaurant on the edge of Chiemsee at Bernau

Have felt like being in the tropics over the last couple of weeks as about 4pm everyday the dark clouds come over the mountains followed by thunder and then torrential rain and then back to sunshine – very odd but very refreshing. We believe we are experiencing a very early summer already.

The camp ground has filled up every night with many mobiles turned away to find somewhere else to park. Don’t think we will be “alone” again and soon will be fighting for a spot ourselves.

Strange also are the number of four footed residents – 90% of Mohos have at least one and most at least 2 or more – all shapes and sizes. Just beautiful to see how they are worshipped here and are taken to dinner in restaurants and even climb aboard buses for sightseeing tours with their owners.

The record for dogs in a motorhome was 5 at Bingen am Rhein.

2018/05/26 – Austria – the smallest villages with the biggest surprises

Saturday 26th May 2018

Every day of travel just brings more beautiful scenery and wonderful little villages. It is not difficult to keep harping on about it and at times, find it difficult to say more than has already been said so many times before. The colours of spring flowers and the green rolling hills continue on forever.

Our campsite for tonight: Festgelande Horn, Horn – GPS 48.672249N 15.6607760E

Arrived on what appeared to be the beginning of a festival so after a short half hour walk we came across some entertainers on stilts, singing and playing some very interesting instruments.

Interesting entertainers – each with an amplifier and speaker on their hips

Lots of young families enjoying the entertainment. Thought we were in for a real treat in town but soon found there was nothing else happening.

There is a castle in town but not open for public viewing, however the park surrounding it was just beautiful so enjoyed the stroll through.

Temperatures are mid to high twenties during the day now so the walks are becoming restricted to early or later in the afternoons. Liquid refreshments of course a necessity often and dieting is out of the question until we come home.

The campsite itself is set in a large greenfield which is also used for festivals as the name suggests and has a soccer field at the other end. Locals walk their dogs, grandmas walk their grandkids – it is really lovely and cool with large shady trees.

Being a Stellplatz it offers services on a user pay basis with a small camping fee – though could not find anywhere to pay this.

Sunday, Monday & Tuesday 27th – 29th May

We travelled through the mountainside today where the forests of massive pine trees bordered the road km after km.

In the middle of nowhere, we stumbled across a field where a museum of stick objects made out of metal was on display for a short time as part of an upcoming festival. Literally hundreds of them some being a couple of metres tall. Abstract versions of everything possible including animals, people, trees, machines etc.

A few kms further on we came across the biggest flea market you have ever seen – right in the middle of a forest. There were cars parked on both sides of the street for miles. We found this very strange as it was nowhere near any village or town.

Our campsite for three nights: Badesee, Waldhausen im Strudengau – GPS 48.284199N 14.958830E

Another gem in the middle of nowhere and certainly highly recommended.

It is set amidst farm land with sheep grazing only a few metres away. A huge lake is only a few steps away where locals swam and the younger set played beach volleyball on the sand court beside the lake.

The local community has provided this area for its locals and allow about 7 Mohos to enjoy for a donation of 3€ per day.

We spent three beautiful days here where we did the various nature walks through the surrounding hills.

Two are only short walks of about an hour each but the third was a real challenge taking over 4 hours over 13kms. The trails are generally well marked but had to toss a coin a few times – left or right? Most times we guessed well but we did manage to get lost once but were rescued with the help of our Pocket Earth App.

A view from our hike through the hills – looking back at the village of Waldhausen where we started

The walks to the village take you through the countryside with stately Austrian homes and gardens along the way. The small village is just delightful and the Waldhausen Abbey we rate among the best we have seen on our entire trip. The outside is deceiving but once you enter you are gob smacked.

The high vaulted ceilings are white stucco decorated with frescos. So light bright and airy compared to many of the darker rich timbered interiors of most cathedrals. The inside is predominately white black and gold and is more than stunning.

Wednesday & Thursday 30th – 31st May

Stopped at a couple of potential spots along the way but having being spoiled by Waldhausen, found it difficult to find one that was appealing.

We have headed back to the Danube again as we are keen to hit the bike trails.

Our campsite for two nights: Stellplatz Schach, Aschach am Der Donau – GPS 48.374130N 14.028160E

Found the wanted spot here with only 4 spots set right on the river. It is a Stellplatz and as expected, the camping spots are more expensive for the privilege of being next to the river.

The last day of May – Corpus Christie – is celebrated here. The locals dress up in traditional costume and celebrations take to the river where two boats – one decorated with trees and coloured flags take the dignitaries for a short cruise along the river and the other taking the Austrian band in full costume behind it. Not sure but think it is a public holiday as the river front was alive with spectators.

The river boardwalk is lined with outside restaurants all separated with a metre high hedge – about 15 in all, providing a large selection of eats and drinks. Very cool, green and inviting, these restaurants were packed with spectators.

Headed off on the bikes along the Donau trail. Pretty much you can go forever along these trails and today, they were totally crowded with bikers. We were of course the slowest on the trail (the navigator holding up the driver) but we were not trying to win any race but merely out to enjoy the view and the day. Have learnt to ride more confidently on the roads now but was a little less confident when the two lane road ended up being one lane wide only. A bit daunting when you know there is a car behind you and no room to pass until you find a spot to move over. Fortunately the drivers here have lived with the bikes all their lives and are very patient.

Thoroughly enjoyed the few hours riding and rewarded ourselves with a great Danube lunch before heading home and passing out for the rest of the day.

2018/05/21 – Austria – More of the Danube (Donau)

Monday 21st May

Today is a public holiday and everything except restaurants and tourist related operators are closed.

Had to wait until 10am to check out as the Heuriger restaurant (with the office) did not open until then, and saw lots of the Mohos leave much much earlier and wonder if they actually paid their fees? They don’t seem to keep a record here of registration plates or names because none were taken on arrival and on departure, they only asked for the number of days we stayed.

First sunny day in a few days so only travelled a short distance further into the countryside.

Our campsite for tonight: Stellplatz 55+, Deutsch Jahrndorf – GPS 48.007858N 17.110861E

What a delight this little village and the Stellplatz is. The wide pitches are set amongst beautiful trees and well maintained grass and gardens. There is no listed fee but a donation box is beside the service point and “garcon” arrives on his bike late afternoon to collect the donations.

After lunch, we took off on the bikes through the small village where nothing seemed to be open and then followed the bike trail along the Hungarian border to the village of Pama about 10kms away. We passed by a trail called “the iron curtain trail” but kept to the Austrian side today. Our German neighbours in the Stellplatz were taking this trail to Bratislava which was a round trip of about 60kms so expect we wouldn’t see them until early evening.

Saw a Gasthof with cars and bikes outside so ventured in where there was a group celebrating a 60th birthday. Saw the band arriving half an hour later to set up but we left well before the music began. Such wonderfully traditional little pubs here with Austrian artefacts gracing each spare spot on the walls.

Thoroughly enjoyed the ride past other little communities with only vineyards and crops for most of the way.

Sat and enjoyed the peaceful surroundings for the rest of the day and watched horses and bikes pass by. The trees and gardens are home to so many different birds who sang happily throughout the afternoon. Even saw a rabbit scurrying across the field below.

Tuesday 22nd May

We are back in the country of wind turbines and one area we passed through today had hundreds for as far as you could see.

Our campsite for tonight: Parking Donaupromenade, Bad Deutsch, Altenburg – GPS 48.140739. 16.900530

This is a huge gratis parking area right on the Danube. We had travelled through several villages and towns along the Danube last year (though not this town) so watching the river cruise boats and dredges brought back memories. The river flows very fast and some vessels found it hard beating against the tide.

Slipway on the Danube next to our campsite

There is a huge park adjacent to the campsite that goes forever along the Danube but bikes were not permitted here (pedestrian access only) so decided to walk through the beautiful park and into the small town. Not a huge amount of activity whilst we strolled through.

Lots of locals come to the river to sit and enjoy the view but all were well behaved.

Adjacent is a boat slipping area for small boats where there were about five sets of rails that took the smaller boats down to the River.

We had tried to visit the tourist bureau but like so many places here, they were only open for a few hours in the morning with a two to three hour break in the middle of the day and then open again for a couple of hours mid to late afternoon.

Watched the lights of the cruise boats float bye until late in the evening. Like all cruise ships, they sightsee during the day and travel at night.

Wednesday 23rd May

Only a few short kms away, we found this little gem, again with a Danube riverfront location.

Our campsite for tonight: Hainburg an der Donau – GPS 48.150900 N 16.944400 E

Within a few minutes walk, we were in the heart of town and on the way saw many buildings of many years gone by with stone water towers, arched stone bridges and a fortress wall surrounding this quaint little town.

Nice touch – carved in to the side of the building

Passed a shopping centre with all the larger shops you could wish for and lots of smaller shops in the heart including an ice cream parlour (had to do as the locals do – taste the lemon and mango combination -yum!).

Ziggy only just got through – she is 3.3 metres

This area is part of a national park with lots of caves and a castle to explore. There are walking and bike trails everywhere and it is great to see people using them. I am sure that the Europeans were born on bikes and riding is such a natural way of life here.

Ziggy in the background at our overnight campsite

We watched many groups of teenagers (high school age) go on canoe adventures starting from the little cove in front of us. Down stream only as there would be no possibility to paddle against this tide. Once they hit the main river it took them miles away in only a short time – what a buzz!

Finished another great day with dinner in the local Heuriger. Enjoyed a really great local Chardonnay and a shared mixed plate of local wursts, cheeses, pickled vegetables and some of the best tasting bread (the Europeans really know how to make it). Good to see my driver become more adventurous with trying some of these local foods.

Thursday 24th May

We are heading into new territory for us in Northern Austria now and leaving the Danube behind.

Three out of every four places we pass by end in “dorf” meaning “village” and each has its own special characteristics. We love these places off the beaten track and are keen to spend time here and explore as many as possible.

Our campsite for tonight: Schloss Wilfersdorf, Wilfersdorf – GPS 48.585999 N 16.645140 E

This is just the smallest village where we are parked in the grounds of this castle, Liechtenstein Schloss. Very different from the ones we have seen perched high on hills with the only way up on the back of a mountain goat! This is a low set two storey building set on huge level grounds.

Our campsite for the night – Schloss Wilfersdorf

Check in is at the castle desk where a small fee of €4 is requested and all services are included. They are just so lovely here and provide tourist maps of numerous walks and bike trails and nothing is a problem. Only three Mohos are permitted and we were lucky enough to be number two – though by the end of the evening we managed to squeeze four in.

Here there are four villages within a few kms of each other including Bullendorf, Hobersdorf and a little further to Ebersdorf an Der Zaya. The walking and bike trails through these villages are only a few kms apart so not a huge effort on day one to visit these.

With thunder and lightning on the horizon, we headed back quickly, eager to try part of the longer Liechtenstein Trail tomorrow. This trail covers around 60kms each way ending in the Czech Republic but we have plans to do only a small part of it tomorrow.

Dropped in at the local pub just in time for dinner (goulash and a half pint to wash it down with – yum!). Our friends at the next table kept us entertained during the evening while a very large St Bernhard and its owner sat at another table – man’s best friend is not limited to where they can go and dinner in a restaurant is no exception.

Friday 25th May

Poured with rain all night and all hopes of a bike ride were dashed right up until mid morning. Made a few phone calls home, did some research and writing and waited for the weather to clear – not today it seems.

Made a decision to move on by early afternoon and our planned route was closed for road works so the deviation took us to the Czech border. Didn’t want to go there today so promptly turned around and backtracked a few kms and found an alternate road leading to our planned destination.

Rain had eased leaving the valleys so green and fresh looking and driving through these back blocks now took us through so many beautiful places. I am sure the locals have never seen a Moho with Australian stickers before and each person we talk to is amazed we have travelled so far. Their reaction is always the same – big smiles, eyebrows raised and then the words “Australia – so far away”.

Arrived at the Thayatal National Park Campsite to find it a little more than overgrown and needing lots of tender loving care to be ready for the summer vacation period. The forest itself was wonderful, with walking and biking trails everywhere and kids play areas and a restaurant ready to take hundreds a day – but not today!

Drove on a little further to Austria’s smallest town – Hardegg. It has its own fairytale castle set high atop of a rock overlooking the Thayal River which is the official border between Austria and Czech.

Beautiful setting – the Austrian Czech border

Really lovely little town and worth a visit. The river front areas were set up as a great picnic area and especially inviting with lovely trees and gardens and of course a couple of restaurants.

Decided not to stay in the national park Stellplatz so moved on 30kms or so.

Our campsite for tonight: Eggenburg Stellplatz – GPS 48.645600N 15.817200E

The local shire has provided three similar motorhome dedicated campsites along this small stretch – Ratz, Pulkau and Eggenburg. All are in close proximity to the centre of town but the best in our opinion is Eggenburg which is set in a quiet location with lovely trees and grassed areas surrounding it.

It is a self check in where you fill in a card, put your 4€ in an envelope and place it in a box at the building at the entry to the car park. Maps and tourist information is provided so no need to look for the sometimes illusive tourist bureau.

Spent the evening enjoying the surroundings with only one other motorhome and the birds to share it with.

Saturday 26th May

Took off after breakfast up and over the hill and spent four hours in town. Today was market and artistic skills day, so we watched all sorts of activities including potters in action, glass blowing, wood turning etc etc. In the market square, we saw two young girls sitting in a bath enjoying an authentic mud bath.

St Stephans church was a real delight and whilst there, we watched a christening. Just so beautiful with acoustic guitarist and female soloist adding something special to the event.

Nothing like a mud bath in the middle of the town square

The town is surrounded by a fortress wall and the old buildings in the central town square have been restored magnificently.

Had planned to stay another night but the festivities concluded at lunchtime and once all the stalls packed down, very few people remained. What was the height of activity only hours before now turned into almost a ghost town.

Time to move on again.

2018/05/13 – Austria – Lakes, vineyards, bike trails and Heurigers

AUSTRIA – Lakes, vineyards, bike trails and Heurigers

Sunday 13th May

Bit wet this morning so took a while to get motivated to make a move. Always like to lay in on a wet day!

We were only a short distance from the border and on arrival the guard waved us through without checking our passports.

Similar scenery to Slovenia, just so green. We are in spring now and the wild flowers are in full bloom – small purple and yellow flowers with patches of bright red wild poppies are everywhere.

Our campsite for tonight: Olmuhle Sixt, Eichfeld – GPS 46.738152N 15.745750E

This is at a farmhouse which used to have a working Oil manufacturing business (pumpkin seed we think). They have set up part of it as a Stellplatz now with spaces for about 10 Mohos.

Sadly they no longer make the oil here but the buildings are still there as is the original waterwheel – such a pretty setting. The owners did not speak English but my driver comfortably carried on a conversation with them. I just love to listen and only help out when asked!

Took advantage of a break in the weather late afternoon and set up our Cadac BBQ, tables and chairs and enjoyed a great meal until the black storm clouds reappeared. Quickly packed up and were in just in time before the heavens opened up and the heaviest rain we have experienced for a long time prevailed until the morning.

Quite interesting hearing the rain beating down on the roof (so close to our heads in the upper bed) and at times so loud we couldn’t hear ourselves speaking.

(No photos – too much rain)

Monday 14th & Tuesday 15th May

It was still raining quite heavily so decided to go only a short distance.

Our campsite for tonight: Rosenhalle, St Stefan im Rosenthal – GPS 46.905438N 15.715455E

The co ordinates listed in NKC are not quite correct but we soon found the campsite only a couple of streets away. The campsite has lots of lovely trees and scenery and is set beside a small tributary. Last nights heavy evening rain had caused it to overflow into the adjoining paddocks and the local streets around it were flooded.

Sirens sounded warning the locals of the river flooding and many locals were out and about checking the levels. We were encouraged to move away from the river to a nearby carpark and stayed there until the levels in the river dropped some hours later.

Still rained throughout the remainder of the day and night but only a drizzle.

Stayed on for another day hoping the weather might clear even though rainy weather is now predicted for the rest of May.

Lots of bike and walking trails in this area but decided a walk was best option for now. Found a man’s store in town where my driver happily walked around selecting lots of little bibs and bobs that he likes to keep as spares in case he may need them – assorted screws, hose clamps etc. – think it is a hangover from our boating and vanning days in Australia.

Again a really great gratis Stellplatz with water and electricity available at a low cost.

Wednesday 16th May

Our Autogas gas tanks were getting low and to our amazement we could not find any LPG in service stations in these little off the beat villages. Seems the bigger towns only supply LPG in Austria. Our two large tanks hold enough for about a month in the summer months.

After several kms and passing about 20 service stations with no luck, we stopped and checked out the mylpg.eu site and headed for the closest station – 92kms away – ugh!

Getting late now and once we were filled up with LPG headed for the nearest Moho stop for the night.

Our campsite for tonight: Cselley Muhle, Oslip – GPS 47.840969N 16.625120E

A couple kms outside the town of Eisenstadt, this spot is peaceful and quiet and set in a treed area with vineyards all around and the only building within sight, a beautiful restaurant and accommodation place. There are no facilities here but was just wonderful with only the birds keeping us company.

Thursday – Sunday, 17th – 20th May

Our campsite for four nights: Weingut Slaboda, Podersdorf am See – GPS 47.850151N 16.831011E

We are at the crossroads now where we need to make some major decisions on our planned route over the next few months – only six months left now in Europe as we have booked flights for Dubai at the end of November – didn’t want to spend another winter travelling in Europe though we have to admit we successfully avoided most of the really cold weather and snow by going to Portugal, Spain and Greece.

We might change the dates and the destination for our flight bookings as we are having such a great time in Ziggy in Europe but we need to go back to the UK before the end of November anyhow to get the annual MOT and registration for Ziggy – maybe we should put Ziggy back in to storage in the UK for a few months and come back again for the next northern summer.

It’s a long weekend in Austria so decided to find a spot where there are lots of bike trails and things to do. This is a small campsite taking only 14 Mohos. It has been full pretty much the whole weekend. As soon as one leaves it is replaced with another shortly after. It is set at a vineyard only a few minutes walk from town and a massive lake (Neusiedler See in Burgenland) where windsurfers and kite surfers happily fly about in a blaze of colour.

The Navigator choosing a Heuriger after a bike ride

Weather is still not great with very little sunshine and lots of cloud and wind but this did not stop everyone from hitting the huge number of bike trails around here. There were bikes of all sorts many with small trailers carrying children and dogs along for the ride.

Neusiedler See beachfront with electric boats for hire

Over the four days we attempted the B10 bikeway which runs for 120 kms around the lake – didn’t make it all the way round 😅 and had to stop many times at one of the many local Heuriger’s (wine bars that serve wine only and antipasto type meals – no beer, no coffee).

The bikeways are very flat so no hard hills to climb thank goodness.

One of the bird watching towers on a bike way round Neusiedler See

The centre of town is on the lake with a small red and white striped lighthouse being the feature. Lots of restaurants and ice cream shops which were well frequented on this holiday weekend.

Vineyards are everywhere and of course lots of wineries to try out.

Had a super relaxing four days though there are parts of my body that I am sure will hurt for a few days to come.

2018/05/09 – Slovenia – Beer Fountain in a Town Square

SLOVENIA – Beer fountain in a town square

Wednesday 9th May 2018

The trip across the border again was seamless, however the border guard coming into Slovenia did take quite a long time meticulously going through our passports. Still no issues with overstaying our Schengen time limit.

The countryside is again a patchwork quilt of greens, greys and browns blanketing the rolling hills and in between were dotted with stately Bavarian style homes – a breath of fresh air.

Though we thoroughly enjoyed Croatia with its magnificent scenery, in our opinion, it has been thoroughly spoiled by tourism and is now so expensive. Every nook and cranny has been set up as a camping place and/or restaurant and the service and food in most of those we experienced, has been woeful.

Our campsite for tonight: Mali Raj, Dolenjske Toplice – GPS 45.771141N 15.050690E

Just across the border, we settled into this wonderful little camping spot set along the banks of the Krka River. We sit and watch the swans lazily fishing in the river and flocks of cranes fly happily above then settle down on the river banks to feed.

The river here is wide and fast flowing and so clear. This is a naturalist camp but some sections are for people like us who like to keep our clothes on.

There is only one other motorhome here – a Dutch couple who don’t like clothes (quite refreshing to be pretty much alone again).

Very friendly owners, however they did try to charge us much more than the APP price but quickly agreed to the listed price when we stood our ground and showed them their listing on our iPad. Found out from the other motorhomers that they were quoted the APP price not the over inflated price we were asked to pay. Suggest one should confirm price of every campsite before entering.

Thursday 10th May

First priority was to stock up, so Lidl banked some of our hard earned dollars in exchange for giving us wine and replenishing our drink supplies and of course the freezer and fridge look much healthier again.

Our NAVIE took us on a Cook’s tour up and down dale through some quaint little hillside villages and lush tree lined roads which were very windy and narrow so were relieved not to strike a car coming the other way.

Our campsite for tonight: Kostanjevica na Krki – GPS 45.849491N 15.418850E

Discovered there was a much more direct road NAVIE should have taken us on but our scenic drive was really worth it.

There is obviously a wood worker in this town who has created some woodwork masterpieces out of tree trunks. These are really interesting and are scattered at the entry to the town and in other places.

The local council has provided five motorhome spaces exclusively for motorhomes – gratis. They are overlooking a sloping treed parkland and then the Krki river. We also have views over two sand volleyball courts where a group of 10 young people happily played volleyball from 5pm until dark.

Didn’t take long to take a walk around the small town where we see the first signs of brightly coloured flowers in window boxes. Chose a pub on the riverfront for a quiet ale before heading back to Ziggy to watch our free sports entertainment only metres away.

Friday 11th May

Quite interesting this morning watching tractor after tractor slowly meandering along the highway not far from our campsite. Counted at least 30 of these, all different shapes and sizes. Thought there must be a tractor convention and soon after leaving our campsite came across all of these lined up like soldiers on the highway. Found out later from a service station that today was Tractor Registration day -the only day of the year allocated to registration.

Beautiful scenery as we followed the Krka river to our lunch spot set high on the hill overlooking the town of Sevnica. We have followed this river through many villages for a few days now. Not sure how long the river is but it is a beautiful blue green colour and is crystal clear.

Passed through the town of Lasko where the brewery for the best Slovenian beer is made. This whole region is a massive hops plantation and km after km of hops are growing for as far as you can see.

Our lunch spot: PZA Castle Sevnica – GPS 46.008820N 15.314930E

The municipality here has provided gratis motorhome parking with full facilities including electricity and only asks that you spend some money in the township in return.

Great work by the local authority – even signage in 4 languages – with free overnight, electricity, WiFi etc – wake up Australian local authorities

Only about 100 metres from the castle, it has views across the town, valley and beautiful river below and would be an ideal place to stay for one or more nights.

Visited the castle which rests in the heart of some amazing grounds of gigantic trees and flowering shrubs whilst down the hillside there are tiered grape vines. The entry area has a bar cafe and tourist office with many maps of the district available. The centre courtyard is a mass of colour with the three level walls of the castle surrounding the courtyard.

Our campsite for tonight: Parking Vrbje, Vrbje – GPS 46.240849N 15.154000E

Another wonderful venture by the local municipality where there are 4 free parking dedicated motorhome spots with full facilities to be used on a “user pay basis” – for next to nothing.

The setting is adjacent to parkland and at the entrance to a nature reserve which is a forest surrounding a Lake fed by the Savinja River. There are magic walking tracks and bike tracks around the lake and is a very popular spot for the locals to walk and ride.

We found some more unusual tree trunk art along the way – some of it just so clever. Really worth the walk or ride around as it is so green and peaceful with only the sounds of the river and birds keeping us company.

Met a British couple who told us about a bistro and cafe bar not far away so as it was the drivers turn to cook, headed in that direction only to find that the meaning of bistro is not the same as at home and served only drinks.

Returned back to Ziggy to find the four spots available taken up with five motorhomes. Two Slovenian, one French and one Brit and ourselves. Quickly befriended the two Slovenian motorhomers who bought over their pear brandy to try – wow, certainly took the breath away but was so good.

After receiving a bit of local knowledge, Davorin, Mojca, Darko and Veruska and their little white fluffy dog Lunar, took us for a 2 km walk into the town of Zalec. In the centre of town they have built a square with the feature being a beer fountain which is open until 9pm.

Zalec beer fountain with our wonderful hosts Davorin, Mojca, Darko and Veruska

You purchase a special designer beer glass designed by Oscar Kogoj and then start a beer tasting of 6 local boutique beers. Our friends would not let us purchase the glasses and wanted us to have a souvenir of Slovenia and something to remember them by – how wonderful was that.

There are seven fountain dispensers, one for glass cleaning and the other six for the beers. We arrived at 8.30pm so only had half an hour to complete the task. Just enough time as we had just filled the last glass when the fountains automatically shut down and disappeared below the surface. There is a stick on labelled code at the bottom of the glass which counts the number of samples you have had.

Another 2kms back home and then the party began. More of that clear pear brandy brew came out as well as beers and a few platters of snacks (inc some which were raw meat)- guess the driver owes me another meal.

Saturday 12th May

The Driver was a little worse for wear as he tried to keep up with our Slovenian friends while the navigator changed to coffee on return from the beer fountain.

Such lovely young people. We had so much fun yesterday (shame the French and British couple did not want to join us) but now it was time to say another goodbye to some more people who have made our trip so special and will always be remembered.

All other Mohos left early but we stayed on until after lunch.

Our campsite for tonight: Gostilna Koblarjev Zaliv, Maribor. – GPS 46.565559N 15.619740E

Didn’t realise until we arrived, that we had spent a night here in April on our way down toward Croatia but as we had such a great meal and night last time, we stayed again.

This peaceful and quiet campsite is at a tavern set on a lake with bike and walking trails going for miles.

We were lucky enough to join in on a Slovenian wedding at the tavern which lasted well into the evening. The food again was so great and inexpensive and the band played some traditional and modern music (though it was interesting listening to a Slovenian version of “Let’s twist again – like we did last summer”.

What a way to finish our last night in Slovenia.

Great country, great people, great food and drink – would definitely visit a third time

2018/05/07 – Goodbye Croatia & Plitvicka Nat Park

Monday 7th and Tuesday 8th May

Time to say farewell to Martina and Ralf again, though this time we are heading in different directions so expect this time it really is farewell. Never say never!

We continue to agree that some of the most memorable moments of our trip have been with total strangers who have become friends.

We headed inland away from the coast and after a very long drive today we arrived at our campsite.

Our campsite for two nights: Camping Bear Plitvicki, Rakovica – GPS 44.947762N 15.637490E

Only a small campsite with about 30 places, though over the two days it swelled to lots more as campers arrived on bikes and cars and set up tents in every spare spot. Our site which we thought was ours exclusively ended up with two tents at the back of us – no problem though.

Very quirky little family farm with makeshift buildings for tent campers to sit and eat. Lots of trees and greenery giving it a very country feel (complete with sheep roaming about in the paddock beside the campsite).

At one time, two young French ladies arrived in a car and began setting up a portable fence around their camp space. Out came 4 dogs – all different makes and kinds with three very large and one small playing about in this area – didn’t think there was room for a tent as well but they proved me wrong. Not sure where the dogs slept as they were still roaming about well after we went to bed.

Rebooked our spot for the night with management and put two chairs in our space to reserve this and then headed off in Ziggy early to get a good start at Plitvicka National Park and Falls.

Arrived at around 8.30 am, parked in the huge car park adjacent, took a parking ticket and walked across the road to the entry where there was already a queue.

Another 150 kunas ($34 $AUD) entrance fee each and everything they say about this magic kingdom is more than true. The national park extends over a surface area of 294 square kms and is the largest in Croatia. Again another UNESCO world heritage site. The paths and boardwalks take you through rich green forests and over and around lakes, waterfalls and steams. 16 lakes tumble into each other via a series of waterfalls and cascades. There are over 18kms of wooden footbridges and pathways that take you around the three sections of the park.

It took us nearly six hours in total and that was making use of the parks complimentary shuttle buses and the small river boats which travel between sections 2 and 3. Doesn’t say in the brochure, however you can only take one boat ride (your ticket is stamped) but unlimited bus rides.

Had just the most wonderful day with numerous waterfalls large and small along the way – even saw a rainbow at the big waterfall. The scenery is spectacular, the numerous cascading waterfalls just so picturesque and the lakes and forests just so beautiful.

Unfortunately pictures do not do the scenery justice

This is a “must see” in Croatia and really well done however the signage throughout the park is woeful and very confusing. We asked questions at the tourist information office several times as did so many other people and have to say these people should not have a job as they were totally rude to so many confused people.

Left with so many memories here and lots of pictures – none doing justice to some of the magic sights.

By the time we left late afternoon, the park was totally crowded with tour groups and school kids – so glad we started early.

The parking price was a surprise to us as cars are charged at 7 kunas per hour but motorhomes get slugged with a one off charge of 70 kunas ($16 $AUD) regardless of how short or long the stay – till 11pm only – no overnight parking.

Navigator and Driver exhausted but happy

Arrived back at Camping Bear to find a tent in the middle of our reserved site. The man was not very pleasant and it took a few very harsh words from my driver (and the threat that Ziggy might make the tent look a little dishevelled if he didn’t move) before he slowly moved to another location. The manager had told us he had asked him to move earlier.

Settled in for another quiet night and watched as this little farm swelled with tents and campers – hate to think what it would be like in July and August. All cash money too – what a rip off as I am sure very few of these camp spots would declare total income inc the 25% GST or VAT they are supposedly collecting.

Left next morning very refreshed and ready to leave Croatia to continue our adventures in Slovenia again.

Croatia summary

Absolutely stunning scenery along the coastline.

In the hinterland the countryside is fairly boring with not much farming land and mostly a shale rock landscape except for the beautiful national parks, lakes and waterfalls.

Croatia appears to be almost totally dependant on tourism for its economy.

Croatia has become quite expensive to tour, compared to most other countries in Europe – diesel over $2 AUD/ litre, no wild camping, Stellplatz or Aires so forced to stay in camp grounds which are expensive even in the off season and triple in price in summer to over 70 Euros or in excess of $100 AUD/night – when you are self-contained in a motorhome and don’t need all the facilities provided by camp grounds it is a bit annoying to have to pay for facilities you don’t need.

Eating out at Restaurants is very expensive and we had some of the smallest serves and worst quality food we have experienced whilst in Europe.

Some of the campsites are not open according to their advertised dates which can be quite inconvenient when touring, arriving late afternoon to find closed gates and then having to move on to another site.

Dubrovnik has one of the best walled old towns we have seen, however when there are cruise boats visiting it is better to stay away and time your visit for another time – there are free Apps available which provide the shore dates of all cruise boats world wide – a very handy App to have.

2018/05/01 Croatia – Dubrovnik and Omis

Tuesday 1st and Wednesday 2nd May 2018

Camping Kate, Mlini (near Dubrovnik). GPS 42.624809N 18.208349E

Located approximately 7kms from Dubrovnik, this small campsite was suggested by Ralf and Martina and was selected as it is a short water taxi ride right into the centre of Dubrovnik’s Old Town.

Met with Ralf & Martina mid afternoon and headed down the 180 steps to the waterfront to check out the timetable for tomorrow’s visit. Very beautiful waterfront area with lots of bars, restaurants and accommodation. Sampled one of these bars and sat under a thatched roof right above the waterline. Again, it was a fabulous sunny day so soaked up the atmosphere before hiking back up the 180 steps again.

Waiting for drinks at the Mlini waterfront bar

Set off around 9.30 am to catch the 10am taxi. Such a pleasant way to go instead of the bus and thoroughly enjoyed the cool breeze and water views along the way. The water taxi ride costs 100 kunas/person return which is around $22 and really worth it.

Soon we approached the harbour and were in awe of the magnificence of this town.

Wrapped up and surrounded by the ancient fortress walls, this town is awesome. We entered Pile Gate into the main square and were greeted with marble streets and baroque buildings.

Arriving in the Old Town harbour by water taxi

Entertainers were in the main square and the Old Town was alive with tourists from every nation. There were three large cruise ships in the harbour and we were inundated with British and Asian groups led by pushy tour leaders.

Street entertainment in the Old Town square

We were inspired by the walk along the fortress walls, quoted as being the finest in the world, where at every corner there were spectacular views across to the Adriatic Sea and surrounding islands.

Looming above the city is Mt Srd which is connected to Dubrovnik by cable car. The fortress wall walk is really worth the 150 kunas/person ($34 AUD) and after 3 hours and over 1000 steps offered 360 degree views of the Old Town (and for this navigator some very sore knees).

Headed away from the Main Street and the crowds to find one of the many interesting little restaurants which can be found in abundance in every narrow cobbled stone street and found it hard to choose one because of the huge variety.

Roof top view in the walled city – note the restaurant with 4 air con units

Another hike uphill where we found one of our choosing and sat and enjoyed a very long and well deserved rest.

Found our way back to the harbour after some more sightseeing of some amazing cathedrals and churches and caught the 4.30 pm water taxi back. Another 180 steps to climb that ended a truly wonderful fun day. Don’t think any of us moved from our chairs for what was left of this day. A “must do” on the bucket list for Croatia as it would be high on our list of top 5 Old Towns to visit. Calculated we had done around 1500 steps today apart from all the normal walking!

Thursday 3rd and Friday 4th May

Renee, Shannon and Glen visited Hvar Island around 2006 and recommended we visit there.

We planned to go to Hvar for a couple of days in late April on the way south to Dubrovnik but the campsites were not due to open until the first week of May. There were parking areas available but we dared not risk these – have heard horror stories of fines for wild camping in Croatia.

On the way back from Dubrovnik heading north we found out that the campsites on Hvar were full of Polish students on their Spring break so we decided not to go there, unfortunately.

So we moved on to meet up with Ralf and Martina in Kamp Galeb in Omis but that campsite was also full of Polish students and we were advised if we wanted a quiet night, then Camp Galeb was not the place to be. Phoned our friends who had arrived here before us and decided to move on to Autocamp Sirena instead.

Our campsite for two nights: Autocamp Sirena, Omis – GPS 43.407261N 16.776859E

Only a few kms away from Kamp Galeb, this is very much a motorhome site only with steep windy roads within the campsite to pitches etched out of the hillside giving most a panorama view across the Adriatic Sea.

We were lucky enough to get one of the prime positions as we arrived just as this one became vacant. With Martina and Ralf only a couple of motorhomes behind us, we had another super two days of relaxing and doing not much of anything apart from laughing, drinking and eating while having this five star view.

Only downside for me was the bathrooms were on level one at the top and we were three levels down. Certainly knew I had knees on day one here but better on day two.

Saturday 5th May & Sunday 6th May

Our campsite for two nights: Kamp Galeb, Omis – GPS 43.441719N 16.682159E

Arrived here to find Polish students still packing down after a long week of festivities. Rubbish and bottles were still everywhere and old tents (obviously no longer functioning, left behind). Looked like a battle scene with many of the soldiers still wandering around in a drunken stupor.

Think they had a lot of fun as the staff looked absolutely exhausted as they tried to handle the hundreds still waiting in line to check out.

Ralf & Martina had already found a site for both of us, so check in was easy and soon with deck chairs and awnings out, we settled into another two days of relaxation.

This is a huge beachfront resort site with cabins, beach deck chairs (a little worse for wear after the onslaught of students) beach volley ball courts and beachfront restaurant.

The mountains rising high above the town looked like they had been painted – so steep and different shades of grey and green.

Ventured into town where the harbour was abuzz with boats and people. Only very small but lots of tourist character with souvenir shops, bars and restaurants along the main strip.

The four of us were very disappointed with the pizza restaurant where staff looked like they did not want to be there. The menu was only in Croatian and they did not want to give us the time of day to do a translation. The mixed salad turned out to be lettuce leaves only and the filling on the pizzas was more like a paste rather than filling – we complained and the salad was replaced with something that did look like a mixed salad, eventually.

Both nights, a huge red German registered Rollende Hotel bus arrived around 4pm carrying 26 passengers, tour leader and driver. The front of the bus had seats for its passengers while the back of the bus was three levels high with 28 beds. We described it like three tiered coffins with bedside lamps. There would be just enough room to get into the bed.

Under these beds and seats, cargo doors opened where huge kitchens with gas topped burners appeared and the driver began the task of cooking dinner for the group. Chairs and tables plates and cutlery came out and soon the group lined up to get a spoonful of what was in the huge pots? Must have been tasty as some came back for seconds.

Very disappointed to see huge pots of leftovers of rice and meat dregs swilled with water and thrown recklessly under a camp tree. Ralf complained to the tour leader and soon the group began picking up their waste and doing the right thing with it.

Had two lovely relaxing days and on our last night with our German (maybe in Ralf’s case American as his English sounds American) friends coming to an end – very sad – so relaxed I forgot to take any photos

We are heading away from the coast tomorrow while they are still wanting the sunshine for the remainder of their 10 days holiday.

2018/04/25 – Croatia – Murter to Split to Opuzen

Wednesday 25th Thursday 26th April

Had received some photos from Martina and Ralf about the campsite they are staying in which looked amazing so headed there, though not expecting them to still be there.

Our campsite for two nights: Camp Slanica, Murter – GPS 43.816830N 15.576950E

Quite a narrow road leading to the campsite but fell in love with it as soon as we arrived. It is a mid size campsite (some larger sites have around 3000 camping, motorhome, tent and caravan sites) with the motorhomes sites getting prime seafront pitches.

Soon found Martina and Ralf only a few Mohos behind us so continued where we left off in Seline. Took the bikes off the rack for the first time in months and we all headed to town for dinner. Martina had discovered this fish restaurant on an earlier bike ride so booked us all in for 7pm. Had a super night with absolutely delicious fresh fish – though we were surprised at the cost. Lesson learned – ask the price before ordering the fish.

Time to head the couple of kms home (in the dark). Three of the four of us took it easily in their stride, while this little navigator struggled and wobbled all the way home – had not experienced riding in the dark before, even though our lights were excellent, I still struggled and sadly walked my bike home for the last few minutes. Ended the night in our Moho with a reasonable bottle of New Zealand Sav Blanc and finally got to bed sometime much much later.

Martina, Ralf and the Navigator ordering the fish

Not an early start next morning for any of us and we enjoyed a late breakfast, then lunch just reading, relaxing and finally mid afternoon hitting the bikes again for a couple of hours before dinner. We caught up with some fishermen who donned wet suits and showed us some interesting sea urchins they had caught and would sell to the markets at around €70/ kg.

The campsite started filling up quickly after lunch. The activity on the water intensified with a huge number of sailing boats in full sail passing by us and we watched fishing boats bringing in their nets.

Dressed for dinner in our best shorts and headed for Chateau de Ralf de Martina for a German BBQ feast. Had the best meal and was introduced to “sundowners” (champagne and grapefruit syrup) and sheep feta cheese (Scharf Kase) which was wrapped in alfoil with shallots and tomato and secret herbs and the best baked potatoes we have ever tasted.

After that great meal we bought some Schafskase and Semmelknodel

Ate like kings and finally waddled home (only three doors up) for a late coffee before hitting the hay.

Martina, Ralf and the Navigator at our waterfront campsite

Friday 27th April

Said our goodbyes, though expecting we will run into each other again before leaving Croatia.

Our campsite for tonight Trogir – GPS 43.511560N 16.246774E

Not a huge number of camp sites to choose from and headed for one on the island (Park4nite App) which was just a short downhill walk to the Old Town. The site was a bit of a shock as it was fully overgrown with grass and the entrance was so narrow and on an uphill hairpin bend. Didn’t stay there but right next door on the high side is a huge carpark where the boom gates were locked open so we ventured in and looked for a pay station. Appears that this has not been operational for a while so took advantage, parked and headed into town.

Magic town set on a fabulous harbour full of yachts and massive cruisers owned no doubt by the rich and famous. The Old Town though only small is considered to be one of the best preserved Romanesque-Gothic towns in Central Europe (got that straight out of the brochure!) and was a real treat and just so interesting with its old castle and fortress right on the point – another UNESCO site.

Can’t believe how hot it has become so quickly and soon we found a very shady place to sit and have “our must have local beer” and watch the passing parade. There were many shady outdoor restaurants on the harbourfront to choose from.

Came back to Ziggy which was now in the shade (very grateful for that) and had a calm peaceful night.

Saturday 28th and Sunday 29th April

Our campsite for two nights: Camping Stobrec, Split – GPS 43.504169N 16.525829E

Wow what a great place. Has won many awards for being the best set up campsite over many years. Takes around 150 campers with the pitches being large and shady and some facing directly onto the white pebbled beach – still can’t get used to rocks on the beach but the locals don’t seem to mind and happily sit on towels in the sun.

We are only one spot from the beach and have fabulous water views even though the campsite was full most of the weekend and lots of families with kids.

Around 100 meters to the bus stop which leaves every 30 minutes to Split Old Town.

The Old Town is called Diocletian’s Palace which is one of the best preserved monuments of Roman architecture – another UNESCO site. We rate it very highly and put it in our 5 top Old Towns to visit.

The narrow cobbled stone streets weave in and out with multi level stone buildings with little restaurants in every nook and cranny – some built directly into old roman stone walls. The boardwalk is a tourist Mecca with stalls selling souvenirs and waterfront restaurants eager to entice the tourist to spend more tourist dollars. Queues formed around every ice cream shop where the choice of variety of flavours was astounding.

Several churches and cathedrals are found in the central square as are Roman statues and frescoes. We even saw a wedding party outside the cathedral but not a lot of privacy for them as busloads of Asian tourists mingled with them taking happy snaps (mainly selfies) while they were waiting to enter the cathedral.

Monday 30th April

Had some difficulty finding a campsite that was suitable. Many are really expensive and a lot insist on cash only (and are reluctant to issue receipots) – bit of a tax rip off we expect, but nice for the pocket.

Our campsite for tonight: Opuzen – GPS 43.0292N 17.5514E

A little private farm just off the road but lush green well kept grassed pitches set amongst the mandarin orchard. Limited facilities with electricity and water, one bathroom, one shower and a washing machine included in the €10 per person price – but the friendliest host ever.

Sat in the shade reading when our host arrived with a large plate and filled it with marinated cherries and whipped cream and a nip of the best alcoholic cherry syrup we have ever tasted – 27% proof he told us (included in the camping price). Also presented us with a litre bottle of fresh mandarin juice.

He sells all kinds of fresh fruit and vegetables and we sampled some of his produce – not cheap – but fresh.

All the fresh produce available at our campsite

We met a young Dutch couple who arrived on their bikes towing a carriage with two small dogs in it. We had seen them some miles back going up a large steep hill and commented on the carriage they were towing.

They are biking around the world over a two year period but only to places that allow dogs to campsites. Ah to be young again – what a wonderful adventure and was very envious of them.

2018/04/19 – Croatia

CROATIA

Croatia has a land mass of 56,538 km2, a population of around 4.5 million and has 1244 islands along the Adriatic coastline.

The capital is Zagreb, the currency is Kuna and the official language is Croatian.

There are currently around 4.67 Kuna to the Aussie Dollar.

We are quite excited as we approach Croatia as we have heard so much about this country from family and friends.

It is a beautiful day and we are in shorts and summer clothes for pretty much the first time or maybe the second time in our fourteen months away with most of these months being equivalent to and mostly colder than home. The sunshine and warmth is a welcome relief. The daytime temperature is a wonderful 25 degrees.

We have no issues at the border as we pass firstly from Slovenia with a stamp and then into Croatia with another stamp – a little surprised at the 2 passport checks as both are Schengen countries and therefore supposedly no boundary – apparently the Syrian illegal immigrants have been accessing central and northern Europe through Croatia so maybe that explains the checks.

There are no vignettes required to be purchased here and within a couple of kms, we reached our first toll booth. Much more civilised here where you take a ticket on entering the motorway and only pay for the distance you travel.

Wild camping is not allowed in Croatia and we have heard differing reports about what is acceptable. We have opted to take the safe way out and stay in campsites and live the Life of Riley while we are in this beautiful country.

There are campsites around every corner – obviously the tourist industry is the major industry here and campsites are quite expensive compared to other countries we have travelled through. Even private home owners and restaurants have joined the band wagon and advertise rates to park in their yards and car parks. Restaurants offer free parking in exchange for a meal (usually at inflated prices).

Thursday 19th & Friday 20th April

We have moved from a tree to sea change and are relishing the change and so enjoying seeing the sea again.

Our camp for two nights: Autokemp Bor, Krk – GPS 45.022885N 14.560945E

Our next toll is to cross the bridge to the Island of Krk – only around $10 and no toll on the way back.

We travelled through the town and up a hill for about a km to this camping spot. Still not many motorhomes about, but we can feel the tension as the holiday season is just around the corner. This campsite is gearing up to be double its size before July. It is perched on a hill with limited views across to the sea.

Wandered down at dinner time to the village which is really quaint with many restaurants along the harbourfront. They even have two red submarines in the harbour (can be hired for sea trips) and some very unusual statues set in a garden that is now blooming with spring flowers.

After some exploring, settled down for dinner in a waterfront fish restaurant and tried out their seafood risotto – very good!

Most campsites take euros so as we had not had time to change money, the campsite and the restaurant happily took our euros until we found an ATM.

The bathrooms in the campsite are the best we have experienced but the electricity which is included in the price is about 50 metres away and water not much closer. The staff were very helpful and provided long extension cords but we found a drop off in power because of it.

Great little spot nonetheless and we enjoyed the two days spent here.

Saturday 21st April

All parking in towns is by prepaid parking tickets and even some supermarkets charge parking. Outside of the town there are lots of free magic places to stop for a break and take some great snapshots.

Our camp for tonight: Restaurant Martina, Senj

Decided to try the restaurant option – meal in exchange for parking. This restaurant was perched high on a hill with nothing short of breathtaking views across the sea.

Booked in for dinner with front row seats on a balcony in a really beautiful restaurant, with a spectacular sunset. We were disappointed at the quantity served (not much bigger than a child’s serve) and the price was ridiculous – very tasty otherwise. Decided there and then in future, to choose our campsite and then chose where we wanted to eat.

Sunday 22nd & Monday 23rd April

More perfect weather and from the future forecasts we were in for at least a week of sunny skies, no cloud and early summer temperatures.

The first two campsites we selected were closed until further notice – very frustrating to say the least as much time is wasted driving there only to find they are closed.

Our campsite for two nights: Autocamp Pisak, Seline – GPS 44.272888N 15.477690E

This is a lovely treed campsite right on the Adriatic Sea with all facilities and Internet for only €18.

The beaches here are small pebbles only with no sand but again the views across the sea, like home, are amazing. Went for a long walk on the beach then to a boardwalk and small Marina and passed by many restaurants that were not open for the season as yet. Nearly every property on the beachfront offered some kind of caravan or boat storage or motorhome parking.

Ralf and Martina from Germany parked in behind us and soon Rob went over to say hello. Ralf has an amazing American accent and we were not sure if he was an American pretending to be German or a German pretending to be American. We spent many wonderful hours chatting and laughing and not sure if we should speak English or German – we spoke both.

The Navigator with Ralf and Martina – our lovely neighbours from Germany

Decided to stay on another day and did much the same on day 2. It is just so wonderful to be in shorts and we felt hot for the first time since leaving home 14 months ago.

Tuesday 24th April

Left around midday with the promise of trying to catch up again with Martina and Ralf somewhere in Croatia or back in Germany where we have an offer to spend time at their home near the Black Forrest and with a reciprocal to them to visit us in Australia.

We travelled back on the A1 again today with another toll but again only cost a few dollars.

Wanted to stay on the outskirts of Zadar and travel in from there to see the town, but the campsite we wanted was situated next to a cement factory (we had just had two magnificent days on the beach) so moved on into town in a free parking area only – GPS 44.113201N 15.236500E Great parking spot occupied by buses and ambulances and a few cars and only a 15-20 minute walk to the Old Town (Stari Grad).

Looking from Old Town Zadar across to New Town Zadar

Well worth the visit as the Old Town included many great old buildings, quaint narrow cobble stoned streets with open air restaurants and much of the architecture having a Roman influence.

The boardwalk around the harbour passed by some beautiful parklands with spring flowers in gardens now in full bloom.

At the end of the boardwalk, many tourist buses were parked and Asian and British tourists were everywhere. The feature at the end of the boardwalk is a sea organ, where the waves hitting the concrete boardwalk walls pass through various size pipes and create different sounds much like an organ. We waited until a tour boat went past and the sounds were intensified by the wake caused by the boats.

Tourists sitting and listening to the pipes of the sea organ

Couldn’t resist an ice cream from one of the shops in Old Town before heading back to Ziggy and moving on to camp somewhere for the night.

Our campsite for tonight: Camping Kozarica, Pakostane – GPS 43.911011N 15.499630E

Quite a large campsite with great ratings. We arrived at 5pm after rejecting some other spots and asked if we could just have a park for the night without all the trimmings as we intended to leave early next morning. Reception offered us a park just outside the main gates, where we could stay, have electricity (which we didn’t need ) Internet and use of the camp bathrooms for €6. Perfect and we could go for a stroll on the beach as well in the morning – who could ask for more!