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Monday 26th June – Bud, Norway

Heard the rain through the night so decided to have a lay in this morning.  Very bleak outside, but the weather forecast said it was going to be otherwise. So ever hopeful for a change, we trundled off after a late breakfast and shower.

Not a lot on the agenda today, so slowly headed towards Bud on the West coast which is the beginning of the famous Atlantic Road.

Today, the weather continually changed from rain to a bright sunny day and then back to rain – a never changing story.  The weather just did not know what it wanted to do.

Roads were excellent so a very peaceful and non stressful day was appreciated by my driver.  Still lots of tunnels, bridges and of course a short ferry ride.   Most of the road tolls in this part of Norway have been lifted but not ferries and at each ride another $30 to $40 is taken from the credit card.  They are the best option by far and we do not begrudge using this service as it saves so much time and fuel if you try to avoid them. 

Bud is a quaint little fishing village and our spot on the marina is just delightful.  We look across at weathered waterfront homes, fishing co ops, restaurants and of course all sorts of fishing boats.  Seagulls swooping happily and many have made nests in the old waterfront sheds. 

Visited the Bud Museum (Romsdalmuseet) and Ergan Coastal Fort.  Many of the bunkers constructed by the Germans in this mountain during WWII are still there overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  They were built between 1941 and 1945.  Didn’t get into the museum itself as it closed at 5pm after we arrived.    We strolled about the hill and saw the many bunkers and underground tunnels built into the mountain.  

We are sitting here and it is nearly 11pm and the sun is still shining.  Really hard to get used to.  Will bring down the blackout shutters soon.  It is really hard to get to sleep when it is still daylight.

Love this little town, love this country, it really is so beautiful.

Tuesday 27th June – Vinjeora, Norway

Yep – guessed it, another mixed weather day.  Tractor started its engines at 7.30 am right next to us and woke up all the motorhomes parked at the marina.  Guess it was going to be an early start today.

Did a big trip today starting with the Atlantic Road.  Scenery is very different to the Fjord’s we have been seeing.   The Atlantic Road begins at Bud and finishes at Kristiansund.  It  goes over eight bridges and connects several islands. 

A parking bay at one of the largest bridges allows for photos to be taken towards the ocean on one side and on the other side, the beautiful mountains and Fjord’s we had been experiencing over the last couple of weeks – a rainbow popped up while we were there.  Needless to say, it was overcast.

Just before Kristiansund we hit a toll tunnel 195NOK later and not long after a ferry from Kanestraum to Halsa set us back another 295NOK.  total for the day around $80.  Quite an expensive day so far.

Had lunch on the Halsa side and watched the ferries (all three of them running simultaneously) take vehicles back and forth.  Believe this ferry service stops at midnight. 

Too early to stop for the night and as it was raining, decided to getter a little closer to Trondheim today. 

Found this magic spot at a little village called Vinjeora right next to a restaurant that was closed for refurbishment – beautiful gardens and once again a magic view down Vinjefjorden.

There have been so many fantastic wild camping spots along the way.

Wednesday 28th June – Steinkjer, Norway

Hat on, sunnies on, sunscreen on and away we go.  Beautiful blue sky with no sign of the “R” word so won’t mention it by name.

We have left the snow capped mountains behind and are now down at sea level and heading a little east.  The roads are great now but after going through Trondheim, we hit a toll road and counted at least three tolls on the same highway E6.  Could have been more that we didn’t see as they are all automatic.   Last count was NOK170 but probably more.

The countryside takes on a new look with lush green fields for grazing and farmland.  Massive hay bales are dressed in white plastic and scattered over every field.  They look like giant sized shiny white marshmellows.  From a long way away they look like sheep grazing in green paddocks.

Didn’t stop in Trondheim as big towns mostly do not interest us.  Roadworks happening everywhere which gave our sat nav a few headaches.  Decided as it was such a glorious day, we would travel further today as we are keen to get to our final destination at Nord Kapp. 

Travelled mostly around countryside that reminded us of Tasmania – mountains, green pastures and magnificent waterways.  Only difference being the rust red painted cottages with A line roofs and attics that dominated the landscape.  Think at least 80% of cottages in the country are either rust red or white.  Looks fabulous against the green backdrop.

We are camped at Paradisbukta, Steinkjer which is right on the beach.  A very popular spot for the locals who flocked to the beach all through the afternoon and until late.  Can’t believe the locals are in summer gear and swimmers and are actually swimming. 

It was 13 degrees this morning and we are in long sleeves and jumpers even though it is a beautiful sunny day.

Friday 23rd June – Oldedalen, Norway

Same same and no different – drizzle drizzle and more drizzle.  Still amazing scenery though most of the time, heavy cloud, mist and rain hampered any opportunity to take photos.   Stunning in bad conditions, we can only imagine how beautiful if we were lucky enough to snag a sunny day.

Passing through Ulvik and around to Olden, there was a lookout roadside (very rare to find) where the scenery was more than spectacular.

We drove to Briksdal Glacier from Olden but had absolutely no view of the glacier on arrival.  Time to chill out and find somewhere with some internet and wait out the rain (if possible).

Our campsite Gryta sits on the Oldevatnet and boasts a rating of 9 out of 10 on Campings.  We are 5 metres from an icy green waterway with views of snow topped mountains, waterfalls and of course Briksdal Glacier (somewhere under the cloud cover).  Sat in our 10 star Ziggy bus and watched for the first opportunity to take a photo.

Internet is excellent here so my producer was able to download photos and catch up on editing and finalising another blog ready to post.

There are so many amazing things to do and see north of here so took the time to research and help with info for my driver for the next leg of our journey.

We have only seen one other motorhome with British number plates since we landed in France over 3 months ago???.

Saturday 24th June – Stryn, Norway

Woke up to a patch (only a small one) of blue sky over Briksdal Glacier so rushed out to take some shots.  Just as well as less than 30 minutes later the dark clouds began to cover the mountain again. 

Weather forecast said overcast only so took a chance and drove the fifteen minute trip up the mountain to view the glacier.

Once parked (50 NOK fee) we headed up the mountain – 3kms uphill pretty much all the way – or you could take the easy way out and catch a troll car for a sum of money.  Excellent track up and so many people opted to take the walk which was great to see.  We certainly needed the exercise as the rain had slowed down our exercise routine for quite a few days.  Certainly not many bike riding opportunities here.

We passed by some stunning waterfalls only a few metres away and with a small breeze blowing, we could not escape getting a little wet from the spray.  Saw a small patch of blue sky occasionally so continued up hoping so much that the rain would stay away.

At every corner the view was getting better and we snapped happily just in case the weather changed.  45 minutes later we were standing in awe right at the bottom of the glacier.  The beautiful pale blue of the ice was astonishing.  The lake of melted ice at the tongue of the glacier being the same colour.   We stood there for a while hoping for some blue sky but didn’t happen so headed back down.

So happy we made the effort – it was so worth it.

Stopped at Kiwi supermarket for some meat and fruit and veg – $200 later and not a lot to show for it!! 

We found a great wild camp spot on the fjord just a few kms past Stryn.    Decided not to continue any further today as the weather forecast for tomorrow looked very promising.  The plan was to get up really early and beat the tourists to the wonderful places we had planned to see tomorrow.

Sunday 25th June – Isfjorden, Norway

Sunshine – yeah!!!!!!

Headed off at 7am without any breakfast (first time we have done that).  Wanted to get going and worry about food later.  We have so much to see today.

It is so amazing how good we felt to see some sunshine for a change – scenery takes on such a fresh look and feel about it.

Our first stop was at Geiranger Skywalk at Mt. Dalsnibba.  One of the most talked about scenic tourist destinations in Norway. And Europe’s highest fjord view from a road.  The toll road Nibbevegen (130 NOK) takes a sharp turn off highway 63 and soon we were climbing steeply.

Lost count at the number of hairpin bends Ziggy negotiated and am sure she was happy to take a rest at the top.  The road up took us past snow a couple of feet deep on the roadside and past a frozen lake.  It is the highest viewing spot in Norway.  Snow capped mountains for as far as you could see and views down to Geirangerfjorden where we could see ships travelling on the waterways.  A truly beautiful place and we had sunshine!

Next we stopped at Flydalsjuvet (juvet translated is canyon).  There are two viewing levels joined by a gangway.  This is one of the most popular photography points in Norway.  The view is of the beautiful tourist town of Geiranger way down in the valley nestled between mountains and fronting Geirangerfjorden.  We can see a massive cruise ship in the harbour. 

My driver took time out and sat in the captains chair overlooking this amazing view.

Next we arrived in Geiranger and watched ferries taking passengers off the cruise ship to shore and transporting them to the dozen or so coaches waiting for them – no doubt their destination would be Geiranger Skywalk.

We were now on the famous Trollstigen Mountain Road which led us to us to viewpoints including Geiranger Panorama. 

Buses, mobile homes, cars, motor bikes took up every spot in the massive car park – tourists were everywhere.   A pathway led tourists through shops and then up to the viewing platforms one being at the top of a magnificent waterfall. 

The view down the valley showed the famous Trollstigen Pass Road claimed on the Internet as being one of the worlds most dangerous roads.  Mostly one lane, the numerous hairpin bends and steep roads are navigated by buses, motor homes and cars by the thousands daily.  From here we watched huge buses navigate corners with little room to spare for themselves let alone another vehicle.  Very scary to watch.

We then ventured down this road ourselves – heart in hand.  My skilful driver and Ziggy took us to the bottom where I had a big sigh of relief.

 

What a truly wonderful two days we have been fortunate enough to experience.

Now settled in at our camp spot at Isfjorden (once again right on the Fjord) we look forward to hopefully a few more days of sunshine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wednesday 21st June – Flam, Norway

Weather was clearing though overcast.   Great highways today with wide roads for a change.  The tunnels we went through were amazing – one of them over 11kms – followed immediately by another over 5 kms long.   Scenery again was spectacular as we travelled through lush green valleys with rapids and waterfalls bordering the road most of the way.

We had set the alarm to get up early as we were heading for Flam and hoped to take the Flam train on a magic trip through the fiords.  We had short bursts of sunlight so everything looked promising.

Flam is a major tourist town and when we arrived, a cruise ship was in port and at least 15 buses were in the car park.  Another destination which not only offers the best and most scenic train ride but also boat trips around Norways longest Fjord Aurlandsfjorden.

Headed to the centre around 10.00 am and the tourist office to book the train trip but was told we couldn’t get on a return trip today – surprise, surprise.   Decided to stay here until tomorrow so have booked the return train trip for tomorrow morning at 9.45 am which will bring us back here at lunchtime.

We are staying in town at the tourist park and have a spot on the top level overlooking the cruise terminal, Sognefjord and snow capped mountains all round.  Most expensive place we have stayed at so far costing around $40, electricity and showers extra.

Took advantage of this and spent the rest of the day doing some much needed laundry (only $20 for two loads) Internet and of course mingling with the cruise and train tourists in town.  There were literally hundreds of people everywhere spending up big.  With beers at $16 a pop in the local tourist pub, we opted to come back to the park and enjoy one of the very few remaining Polish beers at $0.70 a pop (while stocks last).

This park has around 100 spots and we were entertained watching people come in, set up tents, and settle in for the night.

Thursday 22nd June – Fjaerland, Norway

Rained slightly through the night and was overcast and drizzling when the alarm went off at 7.00am.

Had invested $90 each for the Flam train ride and we were feeling a little unhappy at weather conditions this morning.  We looked down to see so many tents being packed up in the rain and thought how lucky we were to be dry and warm.  This area attracts so many hikers and bikers who bring everything with them in backpacks and in saddlebags on their bikes.  Doesn’t seem that long ago when we were in the same boat but on reflection was a hundred years ago (when we were young).

Had purchased a couple of new jackets yesterday so after breakfast decided to test these out and ventured down to the train station. Another big cruise ship had replaced the one from yesterday so we knew we would be competing with the shipload for the best seats on the train.

The mountains were again topped with cotton wool and the snow capped mountains around us blended in with the fog and mist and there was no definitive line between Earth and sky.   As the train departed, the rain stopped for a while and we were treated to some stunning scenery with waterfalls truly hard to describe.  The train was packed with Asians who were busily scurrying from one window to the next to get the best “selfie” photo at every opportunity.

Only one hour to the top at Laerdal and after a short interlude came back down the same way.  We agree that though very short, the trip was unbelievable.

Returned around noon and quickly packed down and set off for the day.

Roads were the best yet and as the drizzle had slowed down considerably we made good time.  We passed through Laerdalstunnelen, the longest tunnel in the world – a staggering 24.5 kms and at each 6km mark the tunnel is widened and the rock chambers are fitted with magnificent coloured lighting.  Just stunning to say the least.

Have fallen in love with this beautiful country (except for some of the roads and that it is so expensive).

We have “wild camped” tonight and sit at the bottom of the Boyabreen Glacier in Fjaerland, in the Jostedalsbreen National Park.

We have met some really lovely people here – mostly Dutch who seem to be travelling in Norway more than any other nationality.  We are in a place just before the national park information centre.  This would normally fit only 5 motorhomes in but at last count there are around 10 with more driving by continuously trying to find a place for the night. 

 

Thursday 15th June – Evadalen, Norway

Travelling again was really enjoyable as we travelled through a spectacular country side.  So beautiful at every corner.  We selected a great camp spot for the night and arrived there just before lunch.  .

Honnevje Rastplass was located beside a river with mountains all round.   Great facilities were provided all overlooking the sparkling water and the little walking bridge across to the other side.  Some brave folk swam in the water but didn’t stay in long.

The mountains here are sheer rock with little or no vegetation.  We are not far away from the ski fields now, so the countryside is beginning to reflect that.  The township of Valle was a short 2 km walk – all downhill.   After lunch, we took our backpacks and computers and walked down the hill and sat at a wifi hot spot for an hour or so and sent our parking ticket complaint to Son Kommune, did some research and then ventured back up the hill.

Rewarded ourselves with a drink (it was after all nearly 5pm).  Strangely all the motorhomes began leaving – we wondered why.   We checked our trusty campsite app and began translating some of the comments from past campers and found out that this site was changed not long ago to a rest place with no overnight parking permitted.  Didn’t want another fine, nor did we want to travel having consumed alcohol so set about trying to find somewhere close by to stay.

Only a few Klms away we found a grassy spot by a bridge and a babbling (or raging brook) just off the road and at the turnoff to Evadarlen – this will do nicely we thought – so toasted the find and relaxed for the evening.

It poured all night, but loved the sound on the roof.

Friday 16th June – Bryne, Norway

An amazing travel day today.  We climbed and climbed forever along some narrow windy roads that were barely wide enough for Ziggy – let alone other cars.  Had our heart in our hands worrying about cars coming from the other direction.  There were regular turnouts to allow for passing but there were times when we saw trucks reversing to a turnout to allow buses through – and then there were the blind corners.

We were lucky enough to travel directly behind a tourist bus so he led the way and we followed very closely behind.  Took a lot of pressure of us.

The scenery was more than spectacular as we passed by our first lot of snow roadside with still lots of snow on the mountains above us.   More mountains and valleys and lakes formed by the melting snow were at every corner.  Took heaps of photos but hard to find any that would do this scenery justice. Sadly another mixed day of rain, overcast and the occasional 10 minutes or so when the sun came out.

Dog tired after a gruelling 100 Klms plus of these sort of roads, we were more than happy to stop for the day and perched at Abobil in Bryne.  No view, but a safe, quiet night amongst a fleet of mobile homes.

Took the time to look at a range of mobile homes that are not available in Australia.  Very few of these cater for two people only and have so little dining and relaxing space.  Ziggy is so spacious and comfortable.

Saturday 17th June –     Lysefjord, Forsand, Norway

The town of Bryne is quite large but just another town much like anywhere else.  We left mid morning after filling up with water – compliments of Abobil, a motorhome dealership in Bryne.  They were absolutely wonderful and helpful and nothing was too much trouble – even provided electricity and grey and black water facilities. 

Plan today was to find Pulpit Rock – one of the major most visited spots in Norway.  Struck an unbelievable amount of roadworks along the way.  We started out looking for LPG gas before heading to these reasonably isolated places but drew a blank a few times which really ate into our day.  First stop, the gas pump did not work and was so antiquated that no one knew how to fix it.  Then in another town, there was a market next door and cars were parked in front of gas outlet. 

In frustration we abandoned the topping up of gas plan and headed toward Pulpit Rock.

Our 2 x 11 kg tanks of Autogas provides around 44 litres, which in the warmer weather should last us around 44 days, however when the weather is colder the time is considerably reduced as we run our gas heater on those days, plus it takes longer to heat up the water for showering.

Norway doesn’t use Autogas for cars anymore and therefore the number of stations stocking the product are getting harder and harder to find so we need to plan ahead to avoid outages.

From what we can find out there is no Autogas inFinland at all so we will need to fill right up before crossing from Norway into Finland, after visiting Nordkapp, of course (one of the areas at the top of our bucket list).

The trip again was slow with narrow winding roads, so took a long time to do a short distance.

We boarded a ferry for a short trip across Lysefjord to Forsand (around $36 AUD) for a five minute trip. A short ferry ride of around 5-10 minutes costs around 77NOK if your vehicle is under 6 metres long, however if it is 6.0 – 7 metres the price increases to around 197 NOK. This price includes the driver and there is a further fee of 33 NOK for each additional passenger – so our trip was 230NOK. If you are over 7 metres then the price increases again.

About 500m from the ferry is where we are parked for the night.  The site allows for 5 motor homes only and we happily took spot 3.  Spots 4 & 5 were taken within 10 minutes of us arriving – lucky us – we needed something good to happen today.

Parking Oanes:  Our site for the night again is “to die for”.  Beautiful grassed area leading to the Fjord’s edge with views to homes on the other side which are scattered over the hills and behind them, mountains as far as you can see.

Relaxing with a book was the plan for this evening as we believe we have a challenging 4 hour return walk to Pulpit Rock.  Lots of rocks to climb over and a very steep climb.   We hope we do not have rain or high winds tomorrow otherwise will have to abandon this plan.

Sunday 18th June – Sand, Norway

Happy Birthday little brother – will be thinking of you today.

Woke up to thick fog and drizzle – ugh!    Decided to stay put until lunchtime at the latest to see if it would clear.  We don’t seem to be having much luck with the weather.

Our Dutch neighbours said that the weather would clear by 2pm.  Nope!!!   Still more drizzle so off we went in disgust – Pulpit Rock will never see the soles of our shoes or the terrified look on my best friend’s face.  He has a fear of heights and was been very apprehensive all last night about the climb today.

We set off in Ziggy and passed through a tunnel 4.8 kms long – and through many more after that.  The roads were a little better today and the scenery again was picture perfect (even though wet and overcast).  We will put in a serious request to the Man upstairs requesting some sunshine soon. 

Waterfalls were cascading down steep rock faces into the Fjord’s.  Mountains on both sides of the Fjord’s wore tufts of cotton wool perched high on the mountain tops.  Ferries busily darted back and forth across the Fjord’s to various islands.

Our journey today is to the little village of Sand, another one of the top places to see in Norway.  We needed to take another ferry across a Fjord and another $36+ dollars was added to the credit card.  Ferries are a necessity here in the land of Fjord’s.

Arrived around 5pm and Lady Luck was on our side as we took the last waterfront spot on the marina.  Front row tickets again!!!

Our next door German neighbour had wiped out the driver side of his $200k-$250k motorhome on an other vehicle on the narrow roads.

All the houses on the road level and waterfront were white planked timber with red roofs.  Almost as if a caveat was placed on building design.

Sand is a town on the junction of Nedstrandfjorden and Hylsfjorden.  This creates a natural maelstrom for salmon though we didn’t even sight the ones John West rejected.  Other travellers have been fortunate enough to watch this spectacle and even catch a salmon or two.  Believe they visited in September.

We took our umbrellas and did a quick walk around town – being Sunday, very little was open.

Monday & Tuesday 19th-20th June – Voss, Norway

Today was a brighter day with the occasional blue peeping through heavy dark clouds – though not for long.

We set off in Ziggy and saw sheep grazing in the green pastures and we even saw some sheep rock hopping through the mountain streams.

Again we were at levels where snow was still about higher up and the melting snow created some absolutely thunderous waterfalls right beside the highway (death defying road).   The spray from the waterfalls drenching some tourists who ventured too close.  We took advantage of one of the very few places provided in Norway where you could actually stop and take a photo.  The scenery is so beautiful here but the only way we could capture it was through Ziggys windscreen which most times was wet.  Some of our shots feature rain drops 🙂

Many of the roads are cut in to the sides of the mountains and therefore there is solid rock on one side and a drop to the water on the other. There aren’t many roads in Norway and therefore they always carry a lot of traffic – roads that are supposed to be “major roads” are in fact single lane roads – I don’t mean 1 lane in each direction, I mean 1 lane in total – so you need to be stopping all the time to move in to a turn out or reverse up in to the last turnout you passed so as the vehicle coming in the other direction can get passed you.

That is not so bad but when you come to blind corners it certainly gets the drivers attention as these roads carry some of the biggest trucks and semi-trailers I have ever seen because of all the road works under way.

The trip from Voss to Bergen is around 100klms and we must have spent nearly half that time in tunnels – some tunnels are good as they are wide and well lit, others are narrower but well lit some are not lit at all and you don’t realise that until you are in the tunnel – really scarey.

When in a tunnel of any length satellite navigation is usually lost and some tunnels have round-abouts in them with 3 or 4 exits whilst still in the tunnel so you only get caught once not knowing which way to go as after that you check out the planned exit prior to entering the tunnel.

Throw in driving in pouring rain and it all makes for a very exhausted driver at the end of the day – not much better for the navigator as she is either looking at a rock wall whizzing past 1 foot away on 1 side or a drop to the water on the other.

We said very little for the hundred or so kms we travelled today both of us feeling the pressure of what was around every corner.

I remember back when our kids were small and we set off on a Sunday afternoon to have a picnic by a babbling brook.  The elusive babbling brook was rarely found.  Here, around every corner there is the best spot you could ever find – only you can’t stop to enjoy it – the roads are so narrow and cut into such steep mountains that unfortunately there is nowhere to pull over to enjoy the scenery.

For the first time in our travels we came across an accident.  We came around one of those blind corners and found a Dutch motorhome off the bitumen with a front and back wheel in a ditch and leaning towards the mountain – no chance of getting back on the road without being towed out – fortunately no one was injured.  They had met a truck coming the other way and moved over too far to let it through and slipped off the edge – the truck kept going.  We offered assistance but they said that the towing service had already been phoned – we passed the tow truck a little further down the mountain.

We navigated through a section where major roadworks was taking place for around 10kms.  One lane only at a time could get through.

We took time out and stopped for lunch in the car park at the ski resort of Roldal.  Not sure if we had much appetite after seeing the accident but the scenery looking across the snow capped mountains was spectacular. The accident made us realise how easily these things can happen.

We passed several motorhomes travelling in the opposite direction that had had their driver side mirrors wiped out – it is a common occurrence.

Didn’t have much luck with our camp spot selected at Granvin as it too was a construction zone so travelled another 25kms to Voss to a little off road cafe which provides spots for motorhomes.  We are right on the fjord again again with views to the snow capped mountains.  Our campsite is Torvhuset/Kavli a few kms out of town.

The end of one of the most stressful driving days we had so far and really happy to sit back and enjoy the rest of the day.

It rained through the night but we were surprised to see a total blue sky above in the morning.  Didn’t last long as within 15 minutes the black clouds came over. And down came the rain. 

We sat and read our emails and found out from some Aussie travellers who are in Norway and a couple of days behind us, that they have been waiting three days for the weather to change at Pulpit Rock.  So glad we didn’t wait for the weather to change.

We headed off to Bergen today to do some sightseeing.  We travelled all the way through constant rain but the motorway was excellent (left yesterday’s roads behind, thank goodness).  About 80% of the time we travelled through tunnels through the mountains (many in excess of 4kms long).   Most were well lit and wide enough but then we came across some really frightening ones with very little and in some cases, no light at all.   Very scary.

We arrived in Bergen around lunchtime and after scoring a park big enough for Ziggy, we filled up the parking meter with all the spare NOK we had and headed for Vetrelidsallmennyngen and Mt Floyen.  It had stopped raining just before we arrived so we were hopeful of getting a couple hours of sightseeing in before Mother Nature decided to open up the heavens again.

Hard to describe, but this area is where the majority of boats leave and take tourists on every conceivable boat trip around the Fjord’s that you could desire.  The harbour was full of massive cruise ships and judging by the number of tourists there, they were all in port eating and drinking and gobbling up all the trinkets you could want as souvenirs- including the Troll.

Set around a massive harbour and surrounded by hills, houses and apartments (true Norwegian style buildings) dotted the landscape for as far as you could see.  The town centre was pretty much one big mall with statues, fountains and interesting buildings.  Sadly, construction everywhere trying to renovate a town that is getting a bit tired. 

Only the main streets on the harbour were beautiful – go back one or two streets, it was a very different story.

We were so lucky that for the time we were in town, it did not rain, however as soon as we got back to Ziggy (and happy there was no infringement notice on the windscreen) it bucketted down again and continued until we got back to Voss.

 

 

Monday 12th June- Son, Norway

Woke up early and checked for webbed feet  – not yet but if the wet conditions last too much longer, nothing would surprise us.

Filled up with fuel and then headed for the Norwegian border.  We were a bit apprehensive about whether our extra alcohol stock would be confiscated.  We were pleasantly surprised to see no barriers and no customs check in point at all – was just like driving down the highway so Ziggy smiled, my best friend smiled and I smiled as we headed for new adventures in a new country with a new language, customs, currency, road rules etc.

We are so taking for granted how lush and green and how beautiful the countryside is.  Everywhere we have been is just amazing.  All the spring wild flowers in purples, pink and white are all along the banks of the highway.

We passed over many high bridges and looked down to rivers dotted with stately country homes.  Can only imagine these homes are owned by the wealthy as they ramble on and on with stables and beautiful chestnut horses roaming in the paddocks.

We left the highway for Son which is a small town halfway between the border and Oslo and stopped in a car park high above the town overlooking once again some magnificent waterways.    This carpark provided 24 hour free parking.  We saw one of the cruise boats we had seen leaving the harbour in Stromstad – now heading back to Sweden.

The sun came out for the first time in weeks- don’t think we saw the sun in Sweden at all.   Time to soak up the sunshine during lunch and then take a long walk to town for supplies and some Norwegian kroner (NOK) and then around the beautiful harbour front.

Only 10 minutes walk down the hill into Son.  A very narrow street ( no way Ziggy could fit).  Centred around a marina, only a few shops, a museum, a Kiwi supermarket a mini bank and restaurants and some houses high on the hill around a really pretty little town.

Discovered so much on the walk.  Thought this town was small but there are so many unbelievable houses tucked away up on the hills taking advantage of the magnificent view.  We also passed through some exquisite spa resorts on the waters edge.  Felt a bit like a “grotty Yachty” amongst these people who obviously are paying premium Norwegian prices for this luxury.  Security didn’t chase us away so we enjoyed our little time with the rich and famous before heading back to our own little nest on wheels.

On returning to Ziggy we were amazed to see a Europark parking infringement ($100AUD) notice on the windscreen.  We checked the parking notice at the entrance to the carpark and translated it again using Google translate and took a photo of it as well.  There was nothing on the notice to indicate what we had done wrong.  We phoned the number for Europark on the infringement notice and was told we had to phone between 10am and 2pm the next day to lodge a complaint.  Not very helpful at all – she told us that we could stay there as there would be no further fines for the next 24 hours.    She gave us no reason for the ticket.

A little more than annoyed at the situation because earlier while we were having lunch , a Europark car had driven into the carpark and out again and didn’t bother to speak to us or indicate there might be a problem – not very tourist friendly at all.

We settled down and tried to enjoy a fabulous wine and delightful chicken curry. 

Went to bed at midnight but not before pulling the shades and to shut out the daylight.  Woke up at 2.30am and it was still daylight so expect that we have reached the end of dark nights and heading towards 24 hour daylight.

Tuesday  13th June – Kongsberg – Norway

Drafted an email objecting to the infringement notice to send to the local town Kommune  (community office) ready to send when we were next in a wifi area and hope they can help us with some answers.  The signage there was not adequate with information, particularly for foreign travellers and the Europark driver should at least have explained any issue to us earlier when he was in the carpark.

Headed for Oslo this morning with the intention of staying for a couple of days.   We passed through some major toll roads on the way to Oslo.  We were armed with a credit card but discovered these were automatic toll roads which means you can’t stop at a booth and pay,.  Not sure how we are going to pay but as soon as we get some internet we will find out – seems like they send invoices for the tolls to our email address???.

We headed to the marina which seemed to be the closest to the centre of Oslo.  We again passed through some toll roads but not really sure how many.   Can’t ever remember seeing so many boats at a marina and such a huge place.  Literally hundreds of boats, probably a couple of thousand, and when we got to the motorhome section, there would have been over 250-300 spaces for motorhomes.  At $50 a night, someone is making a lot of money.

We had tried to connect to the Internet at the marina (included in the $50 fee) only to find it didn’t work most of the time.  Went to see the harbour master about how to organise payment and to get some info on how to get to town and the Internet.   He didn’t have any info, said we needed at least two buses to get there and went into great detail on how unsafe it was in central Oslo and to be very careful particularly with pick pockets (those nasty people from the East)

Long story short, we decided to give Oslo Marina a miss and headed out of the marina.

We headed up the hill in Oslo to the ski jump at Holmenkommen.  Spent quite some time there.  Spectacular views of Oslo was a bonus.   Tourist buses and a full carpark showed how popular this spot is.   Completed in 2010, this is the first ski jump made out of steel and has inbuilt wind protection – it is a very impressive structure.  You can also experience the ski jump through a simulator and for the more adventurous, you can take a ride down a zip line from the top.  (Didn’t take this option).

After lunch at the top, we headed out of Oslo and travelled west to where we really want to be – the Norwegian fiords and wilderness.

Arrived in Kongsberg late afternoon and parked beside the River Numedalslagen which has 3 waterfalls in the town itself. We stayed at the Skiing and Mining Museum, in the centre of town. The river splits this town in half and forms into rapids right at the bridge in town and beside this museum.  Quite a spectacle and a mighty roar.

It was 4pm and the museum was still open until 5pm.  We asked permission to stay the night and then spent an hour looking through this amazing old building showcasing the history of mining in the area and also the history of ski equipment from its beginning. 

Wednesday 14th June –  Kviteseid, Norway

Left mid morning after a very quiet and restful night.  We were able to connect into the museum wifi as guests so took advantage of this to catch up on emails and research.

Headed towards the Telemarkenkanalen (the fairytale waterway) to see some of the lock systems in action.   First stop was at the beautiful little town of Ulefoss which offered a magic picnic spot on the waterway.  We have not found many spots that provide a park and picnic area so took advantage of this and sat in the sunshine admiring the view.  Today was one of the warmest we have had so far so through experience now, you have to stop and enjoy it while you can because there is a 90% chance you won’t see it tomorrow.

We passed over some of the prettiest countryside seen so far with waterways, bridges, mountains and forests everywhere.  Just as we imagined it would be and the words “the fairytale waterway” is a perfect description of it.

Next we went to Vrangfoss locks and parks, the largest and most impressive flight of locks on the canal.  The five lock chambers raise or lower boats over a height differential of 23 metres.   We were lucky enough to arrive as one of the waterway tourist boats was lowered down the five stepped locks. 

Very manual system where two young ladies (one on each side of the lock) used ratchets to open and close the large wooden gates allowing water in and out of the lock one level at a time.  Then ran down to the next level to begin again and then finally once the boat was out of the lock, rushed to their car and drove down to the next lock further down the line.  Very fit young ladies.

Time to bed down for the day (no such thing to bed down for the night as there is no night).  

Our Campsite is Garverigeden.  Right on the waterway at the little township of Kviteseid.  Was just like looking into a mirror, the waterway reflected the hills and quaint Norwegian houses and the ducks and swans swam happily by us.  The mirror only disturbed by the little ripples of the small sea creatures moving about below.  We have two other mobile homes here.  This camp can take up to 10 mobile homes and we are surprised there are only two others camped here with us in such a beautiful place.

It has been difficult to find these places as so many towns have now excluded motorhomes from parking on the waterfronts.  There are many privately owned camp areas that charge exorbitant fees and are grotty and run down so expect these have put pressure on the local Kommunes to prevent free parking.

Sat outside in our chairs and enjoyed the tranquility (and a drink) until late in the evening.  This place is designated as a free camp ground so there is no problem with taking chairs and tables outside.