Blogs

2018/08/06 – Getting closer to the Pied Piper – but not there yet

Monday 6th August 2018:

Wanted to stay at the Stellplatz in Wilhelmshohe but it was closed with the whole parking area now under re construction.   Using our NAVIE we found a carpark a little further up the hill which was almost directly opposite the entrance to Bergpark Wilhelmshohe, home to Schloss Wilhelmshohe a late 18th century palace. 

The Schloss

This is a huge park of rainforests, castles and ruins, fountains and grottoes, statues and water features.   We spent a really wonderful couple of hours exploring this park. 

There are tours offered to visit the palace where several buildings have been turned into museums of fine art.  It is not open everyday (closed today of course) but the gardens and whole park is open and free to just wander through at any time.  From the castle you get a fine view of the statue of Hercules high on the hill a few kms away.  We ventured about halfway there but as it was so hot, decided to go back to Ziggy to see if we could get closer by car.

Looking from the Schloss up to the statue of Hercules on top of the Pyramid

There is a huge car park there and soon we found our way to the statue.  A small entry fee of around €3 takes you through and up a million steps through the castle ruins to a terrace just below the statue offering a spectacular view to the city of Kassel.  Another steep narrow spiral staircase takes you to the bottom of the statue.

View from inside the Hercules Pyramid looking back towards the Schloss

Really a must do in the area, as the Bergpark Castle and gardens and the Hercules statue were truly amazing.

Our campsite for tonight:  Wohnmobil Stellplatz Am Wesertein, Hann. Munden – GPS N51.420368. E648620

What a surprise package this town was. 

The Stellplatz is part of a huge carpark on the edge of the Weser River with an area in the middle dedicated for Mohos.  This area was in full sun so like many other Mohos, we found a spot under shady trees designated for cars. 

View of the Old Town from the foot bridge

An old pedestrian bridge took us to the Aldstadt (The Old Town) just across the river where we were treated to street after cobbled stoned street of Fachwerk (half timber) houses all freshly painted in different colours and beautifully restored. 

Old Town street

The Main Street again offering numerous restaurants and Italian Eis cream cafes where for around €7 you could indulge in an ice cream masterpiece.  Have been tempted – but the problem I have is deciding which to have!

Oops – watch out – here comes another bicycle tour group

The Weser River is no match for it’s big sisters Mosel and Rhine but through this town it cascades over small waterfalls and we watched many canoeists and swimmers enjoying the cool water.

Tuesday 7th August

Our campsite for tonight:  Badeparadies Eisweise, Gottingen – GPS N51.523151.   E9.930640

A small but busy Stellplatz that filled very quickly by lunchtime.  It is set right beside the indoor and outdoor swimming complex where we literally watched hundreds upon hundreds of people coming in all day.  Even under the shady trees the temperature was in the mid to high thirties.

Ganseliesel

Couldn’t get any energy up to attempt a walk into town so just sat and tried to stay cool.   There is a great Greek restaurant right at the entrance to the swimming complex and an Italian only 100 metres away but neither of us could even think about food.  Even by bedtime around 11pm  it was still in the mid thirties so a good peaceful night’s sleep didn’t happen.

Typical Gottingen architecture

Wednesday & Thursday 8th & 9th August

Really wanted to see this renowned University town as early as possible so walked the km+ walk into town.

Three great churches in the centre but couldn’t get the right distance to take pictures.  Visited the Ganseliesel (little goose statue), the symbol of this town located in the Markt square.  She is hailed locally as the most kissed woman in the world. 

Lots of interesting Fachwerk houses were scattered throughout the centre but we found it didn’t have the same feel as some of the smaller villages we have visited.

Still really hot so sauntered back to Ziggy and moved on.

Our campsite for two nights:  Landhotel Zum Anker, Wahlsburg – GPS N51.624432.   E9.552230

Lovely shady spot on the Weser river.  Long lines of huge trees offered shade for nearly everyone though some Mohos still sat out in the searing heat.

The hotel was a treat with large outside shaded areas where we enjoyed a fabulous meal.  We watched the little ferry taking the local cars and bikes across the river.  There are many of these along this river with very few vehicular bridges in between.  No one seems to pay when they board so guess it is provided gratis by the community.

All types of vehicles can be seen around here like this one which even has a mezzanine floor

We are in the country now and apart from the river and the small village behind, there are fields of crops and farms with horses, geese and even llama that come right to the fence line.

There are some really great bikeways along the Weser so decided to take off the bikes and explore some of the nearby villages.  Sat at every opportunity for some iced water and shade until late afternoon when the dark clouds appeared and then with the sound of thunder shortly thereafter, turned on the batteries and scooted the 10kms back home at a much faster rate than normal.

The rain was cooling but the lack of wiper blades on the glasses, didn’t help the visibility.   Got back just as the really heavy rain started.

One of the many ferry crossings linking villages

The temperature dropped from 32 degrees when we got home to a cool 25 degrees in less than an hour and remained at that for the rest of the night – so wonderful to be cool after about 4 weeks of sweltering conditions.

Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday  10th-13th August

Our campsite for two nights:  Flossplatz Hoxter – GPS N51.773689.   E9.387150

Again on the Weser with the village just across a small bridge.

Just when we thought we had seen it all – the village square is just a picture.  Some of the best Fachwerk houses are located along the Main Street and the Cathedral with the twin spires is awesome.

Hoxter architecture

The temperatures have stayed in the low to mid twenties and we are relishing the cool conditions.  We even put on a jacket to sit outside and enjoy our steak on the BBQ with a good red until the sun disappeared.

So lovely to wake up to a cool day and not having to be mindful to select a campsite in the shade.  Decided to stay here another night or two.

More Hoxter architecture – just love it

Headed off on the bikes after breakfast to explore Schloss Welterbe Corvey only a few kms away.  The bikeway was wide and easy and picturesque.  Today part of the Schloss was set up with a floral and art display and as we arrived at the entrance we were greeted with hundreds of cars and bikes parked in the large grounds.

Entrance to Schloss Welterbe Corvey

Another UNESCO world heritage site, this castle is similar to Wilhelmshohe – a low three storey structure spread over acres with its own dual spired church and stables and outhouses set in beautifully manicured lawns and gardens.

Had a race with a horse and carriage on the way back.  They let us pass and soon they were hot on our heels – it was fun to hear the horses hooves so close clattering along the roadway and we could almost feel the hot breath from the horses as they were so close.

Back through the town and then followed the river to a series of canals where every spare space on the waters edge was taken up with campsites.

The ride was really enjoyable today in the cooler temperatures  so took our time exploring before heading back to another well cooked BBQ by my driver  (chef extraordinaire).

Felt a bit adventurous this morning so cycled down through Boffzen, Furstenberg and stopped for refreshments in Wehrden.

2018/08/01 – Along the Fairytale Road – Germany

Wednesday 1st August

Our campsite for tonight:  Am Burggarten, Hachenburg – GPS N50.662720.   E7.827220

Small carpark with 8 shady spaces allotted for Mohos.  Set beside a beautiful treed park which is part of the castle grounds called Burggarten .

Lovely little village with a small Old Town of cobbled stone streets and narrow alleys.  The castle was disappointing.  Three levels set in two quadrants, an inner and outer with courtyard in the middle.  Is now a functioning university.  Certainly looks more like a university not a castle.

Hachenburg Town Square

A band was setting up in the small square which apparently happens every Thursday night in the summer months. 

Opted not to stay the Thursday night as some comments in our APP referred to young people using this carpark as a gathering point in the evenings.  Did not experience this on our first night so did not want to chance our luck for a second night.

Thursday 2nd and Friday 3rd August

Our campsite for two nights:  Ederberglandhalle, Frankenberg – GPS N51.056519.   E8.802170

This is a really great little Stellplatz with huge pitches and trees and walls of high shrubs everywhere – very private and cool and quiet. 

Met up with a great German couple, Hermann and Waltraud, from Urmitz – we stayed in Urmitz only a few nights ago while visiting Koblenz.   Frankenberg was Hermann & Waltraud’s home town many years ago so they were able to give us a run down on the village.  They also have a brother living in Mt Tamborine in Queensland, Australia, which is probably only about 50 km from where we live.

Frankenburg House

There was a 60’s band scheduled to play in the new part of town in the evening so we ambled down and joined in the festivities.    Interesting concept where you purchased a glass (wine or beer which actually was plastic) for €5 each and then €2 coupons to use for eats and drinks.  You couldn’t get a drink without the purchased glass.  Food and drink stations were set up and you used your coupons to purchase these.  The purchase of the glasses was an entry charge to cover the cost of the band.

Different building materials

Band was great (though we did not know any of the songs which were certainly not from the 60’s and were all sung in German).  Would say around 1000 people crowded the square.

Really enjoyed the Old Town next day.  The Rathaus (town hall)  in Old Town was one of the best we have seen – we seem to keep saying that with every new Rathaus we see.  Looks like a small fairytale medieval castle.   Cobbled stoned streets and quaint little shops and again the wonderful three storey houses (Fachwerk)were a treat. 

Frankenberg Rathaus

The Old Town is at the top of a hill and surrounding the old cathedral, beautiful parks and gardens offer a magnificent view of the town below.  It was a steep climb to the Old Town and the area is very hilly but well worth the effort.

A closeup of the finer work in the Rathaus

The Stellplatz is gratis and also has bonus free wifi which works throughout the old and new towns.  Certainly appreciated having the wi fi as we had quite a long on line chat with Qantas when they advised our return flights had changed – leaving us with 37 hours on planes and in airports on the way home – not happy Jan!  Quite a saga but finally managed to get an earlier flight which gets us home 12 hours earlier than original flight- hope there are no other changes!!

Saturday 4th August

Arrived at our first choice of campsites in Fritzlar to find a circus tent erected opposite the Stellplatz and absolutely no shade whatsoever.  No way was this suitable but as we really wanted to see this village we found a shaded spot nearby the swimming pool.   On with the walking shoes (third pair for me now) and trekked uphill to the old town.

One of the many Turm on the 2.5 km walled town in Fritzlar

Another wonderful Old Town and St Peters Cathedral where again they were setting up a stage abutting the Cathedral for an evening concert.  This week is one of the two – three busiest weeks of the summer season and nearly every place we have visited during this time is “partying” big time.  The town is encircled with a 2.5 km fortified wall where there are at least a dozen Turms (towers) guarding the city.

In the Town Square

Just outside the walled gates we came across a parking area for Mohos and out of 6 – there were two spots left (we couldn’t believe our luck).  We hurried back down the hill and returned ASAP to find we were in still in luck – still two spots left. What a win as this was only 100 metres from the centre of Old Town.

Unusual architecture in Fritzlar

Our campsite for tonight:  Parking Fritzlar – N51.132210.  E9.269740

Still amazingly hot well into the late afternoon so after a few cool drinks we headed into the square for dinner (great pizza) and then to the concert.  Great night but at 10.30 pm the temp was still in the mid thirties!

Sunday 5th August

We have been on the German Fairytale Road over the last few days now.  Named as such because the Brothers Grimm lived here and it is where the fairy tales were written.

Our campsite for tonight:  Wohnmobil Stellplatz, Baunatal -GPS N51.256340.   E9.398870

This is a huge stadium parking area where there are avenues of trees shading the parking places (for cars) and right next door is the Stellplatz – out in the open – without a tree to be seen.   It amazes us that most of the Moho owners in Germany are not bothered by the sun and have no issues with frying in the full sun in their sauna boxes.  TV reception is their first priority and electricity is second – most do not seem to have solar panels.

We parked in the shady car spots for the rest of the day and moved into the Stellplatz in the evening.  Did not venture out of the shade today so cannot report on this town.

 

2018/07/24 Germany – from the Mosel to the Rhein

Tuesday 24th July 2018

Our campsite for one night:  Moselvorgelande, Neef  – GPS N50.095051    E7.137050

We are suffering from the constant heat now and there is no sign of it letting up.  Strange how we were so looking forward to some warmer weather – now we say “bring back the cool”.  It appears from the news that a lot of Europe and Britain is suffering from the unusually hotter weather.

We sight a beautiful shady Stellplatz on the other side of the river and soon we are parked under some huge trees.   Lot long after we discover why there are lots of spare spots.

The train line runs about 50 metres behind and immediately above the Stellplatz with regular passenger and freight trains running.  The train noise is just bearable however they are expanding the train tunnel so the noise from the earthmoving equipment – not to mention the blasting first thing in the morning and last thing at night – was a little harder to accept.  Decision time – shade or noise?  Shade won hands down so we hopped on the bikes to do some exploring.

The 1132 Church in the vineyards on the Mosel on the bike ride between Neef and Bremm

Not a lot to see in the village but the ride through the vineyards led us to the ruins of an old cathedral dating back to the year 1132 and just below this,  a small beach on the river bend.  We wondered why there were so many cars here in the middle of nowhere but soon saw the kids and the blow up canoes occupying every spare inch of the three metre wide beach!

The bike trail became harder as tarmac gave way to stones so turned back.

Trees and shade provided some relief from the heat but the temperature inside Ziggy remained at 32 degrees well into the night.

Wednesday 25th – Friday 27th July

Travelled a fair distance up and down the Mosel river looking for another shady spot to beat the heat.

Our campsite for three nights:  Moselufer Sankt Aldegund – GPS N50.080662.   E7.131390

Bingo!  The best spot here had just become available so we grabbed this quickly.  The only spot right on the rivers edge, where the tree was large enough to give us shade morning and afternoon.  We were the envy of many around us.

A barge on the Mosel at St Aldegund

The riverside bike trails were excellent and we headed back to Zell, this time another 20km round trip from south to north passing by quite a few great little villages.    It was just so hot so stopped a few times along the way for refreshments.

Street art in St Aldegund (the original wine maker)

Couldn’t wait to get out of the sun, so turned the bike batteries on and peddled hard and fast back to our shady spot under the trees.   It is still mid thirties under the trees and the breeze is hot, so not much relief expected over the next few days.

Nice architecture in St Aldegund

Nicholas, Lisa and their white Swiss German shepherd Carly (from near Dortmund, Germany) camped next to us.   We watched as they played with Carly and swam in the Mosel river. 

Nicolas and Lisa joined us for the WeinFest – Carly the dog was the only one under the table

So many of the campers here swam in the river and though it was very tempting, we could not.  Hot as we were, we did not venture in as the river is so murky and barges come within metres of where we were camped.

The barges are massive with most being between 110 and 178 metres long and they pass by every few minutes. 

A road separated our Stellplatz and the village and there on the edge of the road, large Marques were being erected for a Weinfest on the weekend.

Went to the opening night of the Weinfest on Friday night where the “wine queen” for the region was chosen and we sampled 10 X 100 ml shots of local wines as part of the festivities.  We received a special embossed wine glass (to take home) as well.

The band “California Dreams” played so many of the songs we know well (in English) as well as many German Folk Songs.  Nicholas, Lisa and Carly joined us at long trestle tables and together we all finished the one litre of white wine sampling over five hours and danced the night away.

Happily staggered across the road to Ziggy where we had more nightcaps and watched as the party continued on until 2am.

We were all a bit slow getting up next morning so after a large breakfast and lunch we headed off again.  The Weinfest was running for another three nights and we had no plans to stay on while the Weinfest partied until 2am each day!

We also met and befriended a lovely older couple Wilhelm & Greet from Holland.  Wilhelm’s son is a Hymer specialist in Holland and we are seriously considering a visit to his workshop to get Ziggy serviced before heading to the UK for our last couple of weeks.  Wilhelm helped my driver replace a front light globe – how good is that!

Saturday 28th July

Our campsite for one night:  Wohnmobilstellplatz, Alken – GPS N50.250931   E7.445730

Only a very small Stellplatz with five squeezy (or four comfortable places) but situated on the Mosel right next to this great little village.  It is a tourist stopover with buses bringing in loads of tourists.  Also a day stop over for cruise boats so the restaurants and tourist shops are rally busy when the boats are in.

Burg Thurant (a castle) stands high on the hill overlooking the town and is a popular tourist stop.

Burg Thurant

Great place to visit and the views across the river are great but suggest, if you intend to stay in Alken, to leave early in the morning (before business hours) as the car parking that runs parallel to the Stellplatz makes it very tight for Mohos turning onto the street when leaving.

Alken viewed from Burg Thurant

Sunday 29th & Monday 30th July

Sadly we left the Mosel and headed for the Rhine.  Have had a few great weeks of touring along the Mosel and have seen so many wonderful villages.

Our campsite for two nights:  Am Rhein, Urmitz (just north of Koblenz)- GPS N50.418449.   E7.524550

Wilhelm suggested this Stellplatz as a great place to camp to visit Koblenz.

With the train station only a five minute walk away and Koblenz three stops or 10 minutes ride – this is a great spot for visiting Koblenz.

Only downside are the pitches are tight – narrow at the front and wider at the back so very little room to put out sun awnings.  It was as hot as Hades and we were in full sun until 9pm at night.  Felt like being in a sauna.   Sat under the trees for the afternoon and watched the millions of heavily laden barges go by.  So much more river traffic on the Rhine than the Mosel.

Another really hot and sunny day forecast for day two so were tempted to leave here and park somewhere else in the shade for the day while visiting Koblenz.  Just as we were ready to drive out, a Moho was leaving the only shady spot in this Stellplatz.  Collected my deck chair and headed for the spot, sat down in the middle of it and waited for my driver to come over – no one was going to take this spot away from me!

Happy to be in the shade now, we headed for the train station.

Had many fond memories of Koblenz when we spent some time here in 1978 and went in search of our favourite restaurant in Old Town.  Sadly the old area on the junction of the Mosel and Rhine had been replaced by new and modern apartment buildings so the restaurant was no longer there.

Nice architecture in Koblenz

We walked for hours around the Old Town which is pretty much all mall area now with hundreds of shops and restaurants with only a handful of the older buildings still standing.  The Deutsches Ecke (German corner) was as stunning as ever with the huge statue of stallion and rider guarding the entry to the two great rivers.   Seilbahn’s took you high above the river to the castle on the other side – the scenery is just amazing.

The Navigator (the one in the middle) with some statues at Deutsches Ecke

Beautiful tree lined streets through parks offered lots of shade as we walked back toward the centre of Old Town.

Stopped for lunch in one of the many street restaurants and enjoyed one of the best meals we have had in a restaurant since the beginning of our trip (Turkey breast in pepper sauce). 

The statue at Deutsches Ecke at the junction of the Mosel and Rhein rivers

Time to return to our shady spot in Urmitz so back to the Bahnhof for what was the hottest and most stifling ride ever.  The train was not air-conditioned and all the windows were fixed so could not open them to get fresh air.  It must have been 40 degrees inside and the ten minutes in there waiting for the train to leave the station and the ten minute ride home left us exhausted and dripping wet.  Everyone is complaining about how unusually hot it has been in Germany this summer.

Back to Ziggy in full shade, and on the river, was still uncomfortable.  Even after our shower with taps set to full on cold – provided little relief.  Sat on the riverbank until the sun went down at 10pm.  Fortunately the nights cool down and soon we were back to the mid twenties around midnight.

Tuesday 31st July

Made the decision to leave the rivers as there seems to be little shade on offer and no cooling breezes and head for the high country.

Our campsite for tonight:  Freizeitpark An Der Rheinaue, Bonn – GPS N50.709862.   E7.138890

Priority was to find shade and cooler temperatures.  We stopped in a Forest for lunch and a cool break for a few hours before heading off again.

We are heading north now away from the mighty and beautiful, but busy Mosel and Rhine rivers.  Too many holiday makers in this area and after more than a year where we have been pretty much alone, it is hard to get used to wall to wall campers though we have not had any troublesome neighbours.

Where every second vehicle we passed on the riverside roads was a motorhome, they are becoming scarcer as we travel higher into the mountains on side roads.

It feels like autumn already as the trees are changing colour and millions of leaves are already littering the ground – Lack of water and the heat here probably causing this.

This Stellplatz in southern Bonn is gratis and solely for motorhomes.  Giant trees on both sides gave us all day shade and right next door is the most magnificent park.  Only downside is that it is close to a four lane road which was a little noisy, but no problems during the night, even with the windows open.

We heard in the distance, what sounded like a band setting up.  Soon cars started filling the carpark on the other side and once this was full, they parked in the spare Moho spots around us.  It is so frustrating that we are not allowed to park in carparks but cars do not have a problem with taking up the limited “Moho only parking spots”.

Justice was served as the local council car pulled up and started booking the cars in the Moho area  – first time we have seen this.  We had a particularly irate parking offender, question us on the ticket issue and not satisfied with our answer (in German) checked out the tickets given to the other cars.

Concert finished around 11pm and we slept like babies.

 

2018/07/17 – Germany – The Mosel through Zell

Tuesday & Wednesday 17  – 18 July

Topped up with gas and food which took a while and along the way we came across the castle (The Schloss Lieser) we saw from the other side of the Mosel.  It is the most striking building in this village and looks very modern with walls of glass and windows facing onto the river.   The village is stunning and is certainly worth a walk around.

Our campsite for two nights: Stellplatz im Moselvorland, Losnich – GPS N49.975140   E7.043320

It is well into the afternoon so our hope of finding a waterfront spot diminish but here there were a few shady spots left on the waterfront and we were within five minutes of grabbing one of the last ones.  We opted to move to the back row where some large trees gave us shade for the rest of the afternoon and we still had views of the river.

Unusual shaped houses in Losnich

Enjoyed a great rump steak and a good red on the Cadac (all from Lidl!) until the sun left the sky at about 10.15pm.

Morning brought with it another beautiful sunny and hot day so found a shady spot at the front and after a long walk through this village relaxed and read for the rest of the day.

Beautiful lines in the vineyards

Quaint village and buildings with lots of Weingut’s offering wine tasting but little else.  The only shop in town (bakery with a couple of other items) was open from 7am to 11am only.  Beautiful view across the river and vineyards enjoyed by a constant line of cyclists heading in all directions – very relaxing.

Thursday & Friday 19 & 20 July

Our campsite for two nights:  Moselvorgelande Enkirch – GPS N49.983631    E7.121740

It is getting hotter by the day and as we have travelled the last 15 months in much cooler weather, we are struggling to stay cool now.  The temperatures are now in the mid thirties so our choice of overnight sites rely mostly on the ability to park in the shade somewhere.

This is a large Stellplatz and while there were a couple of front row riverfront spots, opted to tuck in under some massive trees where we had shade all day.  No biking over these two days as it was just too hot.

We opted for the shade but the Germans are in the 34 degree heat

Not a very interesting village but had a bottle shop which was also the villages supermarket, variety store and post office.   A small bakery and fruit shop uptown filled all the gaps for everything else we needed.

Struggled at first with the hard crusty bread rolls but are now finding we would not go back to the soft ones we have back home.  Look forward to these for lunch each day.  Most stellplatz’s have a daily bread service and it is amusing watching the queues form around the bakers truck each morning. They also have the equivalent of a Mr Whippy – an Italian ice cream vendor – that comes around twice daily and it gets as much attention -if not more – than the bread man.  The Europeans really love their ice cream!

Met Ted and Desley here from Tamborine Mountain in Queensland in the late afternoon and spent some really wonderful hours until late catching up with news of their travels and sharing some of ours.  So refreshing hearing the Aussie accent again as it is not often we run into Aussies particularly so close to our own back yard.

Ted and Desley leaving for Calais on their way home to Australia

Continued the conversation next morning and soon it was lunchtime before we knew it.  The Camping Fuhrer came round to collect the rent so made a quick decision to stay on – the shade was just too good to leave!

Had another BBQ on the Cadac – such a wonderful compact and very versatile friend now.

Saturday 21st July

The stellplatz (motorhomes only) are now filling quite early as it is the summer holidays and we are finding it more difficult to find good spots now.   Many of the camping areas (tents and caravans) are already filled to capacity with little more than room to swing a cat.  The tents are like small houses – so glad we do not have to camp in these sites.

We also have the advantage of not needing electricity so often find good spots in the unpowered areas.  Our solar panels are magic and we cannot understand why so many Mohos do not have them. 

Our campsite for one night:  Moselufer, Reil – GPS N50.026272   E7.14530

Another great spot where we stayed in back in October – so just had to revisit.  One of the best bike rides we have experienced which over 25 kms takes you through vineyards now covered in lush green leaves heavy with bunches of grapes.   We pass by a tractor towing a covered wagon where tourists occupy fresh air (air conditioned) seats and are taken for a vineyard tour and up to the local castle high on the hill. 

Nice architecture in Reil

The bikeway is just wide enough for the tractor so cyclists move to the side to let it pass.  The trail meanders through the hills providing splendid river views.  We passed by several villages including the fairytale village of Briedel and finally ending up at Zell.  

Stopped in a riverfront Weingut (wine bar) and sampled a cool Mosel Reisling before heading back.

Old photos in the Weingut

The local Imbiss (snack bar) at the campsite was in full swing so joined in with the crowd which became more intimate when a storm hit and we all huddled in a small covered area for a couple of hours.  Had intended to eat there but the vendor closed early as we were pretty much water logged with no room to eat.  Watched sodden bike riders pass by, happy not to have been caught in this storm.

Sunday & Monday 22 & 23rd July

Stopped in at Zell Barl where there is a massive commercial shopping area with every conceivable store you would want.  Sent the driver off to buy things on the men’s shopping list while I stocked up on the eats and drinks.

Our campsite for two nights:  An Der Fussgangerbrucke, Zell – GPS N50.029400   E7.177740

We visited this village by bike on the previous day so just had to spend more time here.

The village is on both sides of the river and the campsite was right at the entrance to the pedestrian bridge leading to Old Town on the other side. 

Welcome to Zell – Black Cat Wein

Just an amazing little place where the buildings on the river were mostly privately owned,  colourful three storey Bavarian style homes and tucked away behind these, the Main Street was a market street with numerous restaurants and quaint little shops.   

Street art where we stopped for a Riesling on one of our cycle trips near Zell

Strolled up and down and took in the atmosphere, stopping at an Imbiss on the river for a cool ale.

Laneways produce all sorts of surprises

The stellplatz is on the outskirts of the camping area where the summer crowd were packed in like sardines. 

Zell still had a Maypole standing

Lovely view across to Old Town Zell from the Stellplatz but a long walk to the facilities which were on the far end of the campsite about 800m away.  We were not lucky enough to snag one of the shady spots here so felt the heat of the afternoon sun.

 

2018/07/06 – Germany – Down the Mosel – from South to North

GERMANY

We are back in Germany again and still think constantly about how lucky we have been to meet such wonderful people everywhere in our travels.  Starting way back in April last year with my family in Poland – Barbara, Piotr, Kornelia and Kamil who welcomed us into their home and hearts.

We enjoy writing to our new Polish family and our new European friends including Michael and Anne, Ralf and Martina, Marie-Louise and Robert, Michael and Pam, Debbie and Mike and Linda and David and thank you for making our journey so special. ❤️

Thank you also to our family and friends in Australia for keeping us up to date with local information and scuttlebutt.  We do miss you all.❤️

Friday 6th and Saturday 7th July

Crossed the bridge at Echternach in Luxembourg and we were back in Germany again.  We crossed borders between the two countries a couple of times as we moved towards our next destination.

Our campsite for two nights:  Am Den Zwei Pappeln, Ensch – GPS N49.827332   E6.835630

Back on the Mosel again, this campsite is set amongst vineyards and the Mosel.  Very shady with large nearly level pitches and lots of grass and shrubs in between.

Great biking here so took off through the vineyards and visited two small villages along the way before heading home.   Every man and his dog uses the bikeways and there is always people to meet and things to see along the way.

Directly opposite the campsite is the little village of Ensch which has a pedestrian and bike pass way to it that runs under the highway.  Everywhere we go, even though it is summertime, it is difficult to find people walking around the streets and most of these little villages look like ghost towns.  Only places you see people are in outdoor restaurants or on the bikeways.

There is a Hoffest (courtyard festival) advertised here for the weekend, so we are keen to join in the fun after dinner. 

This is only a very small village with only a little shop but the campsite is peaceful and quiet and just a great place to relax, read, bike ride and talk with the locals. 

The Driver at the Hofffest talking to the locals

The Hoffest was a hoot with all the locals here (about 80) as well as many from the campsite.  Only about five tents with long trestle tables and bench seats (beautifully decorated with flowers) which made for great communication.  The bar of course being the most popular with the food stall selling wursts  and other German delicacies for dinner, coming a quick second.  The two piece band started at 8pm and the tiny tots (about 4 years old) started the dancing).

This is one of the many things we enjoy the most – seeing their little villages and enjoying the local people who are so hospitable and friendly.

Could have stayed here forever but as the saying goes “life is too short” so we are keen to move on though at a much lesser pace and with no more long distances to travel planned.  Short is sweet!

Sunday 8th and Monday 9th July

Our campsite for two nights:  Reisemobilplatz Trittenheim – GPS N49.824310  E6.902990

It just gets better.  There are so many stellplatz’s along the Mosel to choose from and they get such high ratings and comments. It is difficult to choose and most are only a few kms apart.

Trittenheim is one of the larger villages and is in such a beautiful setting.  We sit on the edge of the Mosel and watch the pleasure craft go by.  Dredges taking goods up and down the river and cruise boats taking passengers to wherever.  Swans peacefully glide along the river and come up on the bank just in front of us. 

Nice architecture in Trittenheim

Across the river, the vineyards cascade down the mountainside for as far as you can see and in front of these, bikers can take the river bike way for hundreds of kms.

Took to the bikes and visited little villages along the river stopping at a Yachthaven at Neumagen Dhron (though no yachts only powered pleasure craft here) for a shandy.

Our view of the vineyards

Has been ideal weather over the last few days so have had the Aussie BBQ “German Style” most nights – though not sure how much longer my driver will be able to stomach the spiced meats 😱.

Tuesday – Saturday 10-14 July

Our campsite for four nights:  Sonneninsel Minheim, Minheim – GPS N49.865929   E6.941790

Such a breeze only travelling short distances as we travel along the Mosel.  Which Stellplatz today I ask?

We had such a wonderful time in Minheim in October, couldn’t go past this Stellplatz again.  Only a bike track separating Ziggy to the banks of the Mosel and again vineyards hugging the hills on the other side.   Grapevines are in full bloom now with young grape bunches starting to develop – certainly prettier now than in October where it was the end of the season.

It is now officially the silly season here (summer holidays) but so far we have still been able to get front row seats to the views though the number of Mohos in campgrounds and on the road has increased dramatically.  Think the secret is to arrive between 10.30 and 12.30 because after 2pm front row seats are rare.

Bike trails hug the river on both sides so spent the four days riding between villages on both sides.   Only a short distance away, crossing the bridge takes you to the really great village of Piesport.   There are a couple of Stellplatz’s closer where you can walk to the village but we opted for the quieter, shadier and greener spot at Minheim. 

Cycling over the bridge between Minheim and Piesport

We spent some wonderful hours last time at Piesport, sitting at the Moselblick Restaurant right on the banks and watching the boats go by.  Boat traffic was a little quieter this time as it was not the weekend.

Stopped here for  a beer whilst cycling near Neumagen

Biked a few more kms and landed back in Neumagan-Dhron.  We had biked there from Trittenheim the day before but entered the village from the other direction this time.  Again stopped at the Yachthaven for a beer before returning the 10kms back to Minheim.

Tourist traffic on the Mosel

Four great days of sunshine (though it is getting hotter by the day) and lots of biking left us exhausted but happy at the end of each day.

A really great Stellplatz and comes highly recommended.

Sunday – Tuesday 15-16 July

We are searching for shady spots now (would you believe it!). After spending more than 15 months of colder temps we are now searching for some shade as we are not accustomed to the sun any longer.

Our campsite for two nights:  Mosel Stellplatz Wintrich, Wintrich – GPS N49.883629   6.948370

This Stellplatz fit the bill nicely with row upon row of majestic tall trees along the riverfront and we found a spot that kept us in the shade for most of the day.

Wintrich village

Biked into Bernkastel-Kues around 12 kms away.  We visited here in October but were limited by time so could not do the village justice. 

Bernkastel Kues

This time we arrived before lunch and spent the afternoon here.  It is a tourist Mecca with larger river cruise boats using it as a stopover. 

Tourist boats getting ready to go at Bernkastel Kues

The old town on one side of the river is spectacular and was alive with tourists.  Such fairytale buildings with flower boxes In full bloom were in and around the town square.

Bernkastel Kues

Th main residential part is on the other side but again some great sights along the riverfront.

Villages pop up everywhere and it so enjoyable exploring them.

Stopped on the riverbank when we saw the most amazing castle on the riverfront on the other side.  Most castles are high on hills but this one was waterfront.

What a castle

Thankful to arrive back at Ziggy to find her still in the shade and crashed on the chairs for a well deserved rest.

Another highly recommended Stellplatz particularly if you want to visit  Bernkastel-Kues, though there is a day parking spot for Mohos within a short walk to the old town.

 

2018/07/04 – Luxembourg

LUXEMBOURG

Wednesday 4th July

The capital of Luxembourg is Luxembourg and the official languages are French, German and Luxembourgish and the currency is Euro.

Luxembourg has a population of around 600,000 people and a land mass of 2586 sq km.

Wild camping is prohibited in Luxembourg.

We passed into Luxembourg with no border gates to cross.

The countryside is lush and green with forests on both sides for miles.  Heading along the motorway we see bridges running across the motorway that are full of flora only and are specifically made to allow fauna to cross the freeway from one side to the other.  Road signs show stick pictures of deer bounding across the nature bridges.

Diesel is around 30 cents a litre cheaper than in Germany but have not stopped to restock groceries as yet.  Have heard they are also cheaper – yet to be confirmed.

Our campsite for tonight:  Parking Redange, Redange – GPS 49.769199N    5.894790E

A small camper stop for about 10 Mohos set beside a wellness park.  Locals coming and going to use the indoor swimming pool during the afternoon and although there are heaps of car spots, they take the Mohos spots as well.

A very small village with not a huge amount to offer in interest apart from a large Cactus store – bit like Woolies at home.  Purchased a couple of new wine glasses – ours were too small and took numerous trips to the fridge to refill glasses 😄.

Rain clouds were brewing overhead so our walk was short lived and we scurried back to Ziggy as we had left the overhead hatches open.  Got back with only minutes to spare before the storm hit and continued on for several hours.

Great facilities all gratis including electricity but not a lot to see (we think as our walk was cut short).

Thursday 5th July

Our campsite for tonight:  Camperplaats Martbusch, Berdorf – GPS 49.825958N    6.343800E

Separate Moho area adjacent to a camping ground.  It is very well set up with huge pitches and grass and trees between each. 

It is a beautiful clean modern village with new homes similar to ours at home – really pretty treed streets and lovely gardens.

This is the start of a large 110 km walk with many smaller walks and circuits in and around this village.

Shoulder width paths through the Gorge

We ventured along the B2 5km nature walk through gorges and forests with sometimes not much more than shoulder width access down steep stoned steps through the gorges. 

Stopped and watched several rock climbers ascending the steep flat vertical rocks – some more than 100 metres high. 

A really great village to use as a base for these walks.

Friday 6th July

Didn’t get a chance to do any shopping in Luxembourg but I have been lead to believe that food – especially items like coffee are really cheap and lots of Germans cross the border to stock up on these items.

We visited the town of Echternach before crossing the border again into Germany.

Didn’t stay overnight but found a great Moho day stop just outside of town GPS N49.809601   E6.42856.  About 6 places and from the look of those Mohos parked – they did stay overnight and even had awnings and deck chairs out!  Sign clearly says no overnight parking.

Many hiking trails start from the town hall here and also lead through gorges and fantastic forests like we tackled yesterday.  The town itself is quoted as being the oldest town in Luxembourg and we sighted Roman excavations along the short walk into town.  

Certainly the old neo Romanesque basilica and abbey (now converted to a tech school) were amazing.  The main square, though very small was bordered by restaurants and lots of picture opportunities for the great buildings around it.

On our return journey we heard in the distance music and like the Pied Piper traced the music to a park.  “Skippy the Bush Kangaroo” followed by The Australian National Anthem was what we heard so we moved quickly.  Strange how out of place to hear our Aussie songs here and did leave a lump in the throat.

The “Australian Aboriginal Team”

Reminded us of when we were staying with Ralf and Martina in Stelzenberg and their friends Petra and Walter gave us some gifts which included a jar of Aussie Vegemite, which apparently she ordered online, a crazy card and a copy of the Vegemite jingle – how good is that? – Petra also had a playlist on her Iphone of Aussie songs – sure brings a tear to your eye when you have been away from home for so long – Ralf and Martina are very fortunate to have such kind and thoughtful friends as Petra and Walter.

The park was alive with young people who were dressed in the traditional costumes of 8 different countries.  There was a competition on and judging took place on dance and costume.  We stayed a while and watched the end of the Australian group who were in shorts only, a bandana and of course some “not so good” aboriginal body paint.  They were doing aboriginal dance and finished off with hopping off on bouncing balls (a skippy impersonation).  They did get good points but they were not as good as the Russian Cossacks who followed them.

Part of the walled city in Echternach

Had to leave as time was marching on and had to find a place to camp.

 

2018/06/27 – Stelzenberg Germany with Ralf and Martina

Wednesday 27th – Saturday 30th June

Our home for four wonderful days and nights:  STELZENBERG with Martina and Ralf

Caught up with Martina and Ralf in their lovely home.  It was only a few weeks ago in Croatia where we shared some great places and experiences together yet it seemed like a lifetime ago.  We had so much to catch up on so we rambled on about our adventures for the whole day and late into the night.  Met their lovely friends Petra and Walter that evening and enjoyed a wonderful BBQ “German Style” on the back deck.  It is summer here now so it is still light well after 10 pm.

A fire and a BBQ on Ralf and Martina’s back deck with Petra getting ready to eat

The schnapps came out at the end and it was evident no one wanted to go to bed.  Ziggy was parked on a pad at the front of the house so did not have far to stagger home.

Did so many things and saw so much of this lovely part of Germany over the four days.  No driving for my driver as Martina expertly drove us from village to village and my driver became a passive passenger!

First off to the Schlossberg Caves in Homburg.   Originally in the 17th century the sand extracted from here was used to make glass. 

The underground bunker system in the caves

During World War II they served as protection against bombing raids.

Martina, Ralf, Navigator and Driver in the Caves

They have recently been extensively reconstructed and now are a tourist attraction where some of the caverns are just amazing and accentuated by colourful lighting.

Great scenes in the Caves

Sitting high on the hill and on top of the caves are the remains of the ruins of the Fortress of Homburg built in the late 16th century during the Renaissance era.  

Our turn to cook dinner tonight so the Tennis Club in Kaiserslautern was the venue where Petra joined the four of us.   There was a tennis camp on so we sat and watched the future tennis champs in action.  Had the best and biggest Parmy ever and needed both Ralf and my driver to help me out to finish it.

After brekky on went the walking shoes and we headed to the forest which backs on to their home for a leisurely four hour walk through the Pfalzer Forest to Trippstadt.   The walking track is well used by the locals and even though it was a work day, we passed many walkers.  It was so breathtakingly beautiful with the track taking us through huge forests and by and over clear mountain streams. 

Beautiful scenery on the hike through the Valley

Surprisingly did not see any fauna except for a few frogs croaking away in the streams. 

Stopped three quarters of the way in this 13+ mile hike at a camping ground for coffee and cake and didn’t realise until we resumed our hike, how far we had come and how much further we needed to go.  An amazing walk, the longest by far I think we have made so far.  Think we were all tired at the end of it.

Big day on the road next day where we visited the very touristy village of St Martin.   A must visit village – one of those magic little places where everything is a picture worth capturing.  It is set amongst vineyards for as far as you can see and every second place is a Weingut offering wine tasting and/or accommodation and meals or both.

Beautiful scenery in St Martin

Stopped in at the Consulat des Weins for wine tasting.  Highly recommended by Ralf and Martina as being one of the better Weingut’s in the area.   Beautifully set out with as many wines as you wanted to taste.  Just take a glass and help yourself to whatever you wanted.   MMmm???  one could get quite plastered if not careful.  Tried a couple of really delicious wines – sparkling for Martina and myself while Rob savoured the still whites.

The wine buffs checking out the menu

Onward through a number of quaint villages to Bad Durkheim where we were shown the worlds largest wine barrel which is in fact a restaurant with no windows.

The unusual wine barrel restaurant in Bad Durkheim

Finished this wonderful day at Weisenheim am Berg in a trendy restaurant named Solo.  The entry doors leading into the courtyard are large enough to fit the front of a castle and once past these you enter the courtyard which has a poolside setting in the middle of a lush green garden.  Bean bags are everywhere and every place setting around the pool is different.  No two tables are the same.  Guests were sitting around the pool on bean bags sipping their coffees and dangling their feet in the cool water.  The place was packed but we were lucky enough to get the best seat in the house as it was vacated just as we arrived.

Martina, Ralf and the Navigator overlooking the pool

Thank you so much Ralf and Martina for sharing your home, your friends and your family with us and for the special friendship we have shared and hope we can continue when you visit us in Australia.

Ralf and Martina both work at the Kaiserslautern Hospital and were able to provide advice and drops for the Driver’s eye problems. The eyes are much better and we thank them for their expertise,  time and trouble in this matter.

Sunday 1st July

Our campsite for tonight:  Mettlacher Abtei-Brau, Mettlach – GPS 49.498161N    6.596750E

Small uninteresting but well situated Stellplatz in the carpark for the Abtei- Brau (brewery).  Right on the outskirts of Mettlach with only a few minutes walk to the centre where there are numerous factory outlet shops.  Very pretty Main Street with outdoor restaurants on both sides.

The walk into town passes by the former Benedictine abbey which is now the Head Office of Villeroy & Boch.  A massive park sits behind the building where there is an interesting 20 metre tree covered in foliage and shaped to a human figure with a bird’s head.

The Mettlach Birdman and the map of Australia

Monday 2nd July and Tuesday 3rd July

Took a 1.5 hour boat ride on the Saar River which took us through a Lock system and then past a wonderland of forest trees and around the famous Saar River Loop (Saarschleife) – a very important tourist attraction in this part of the country.  Very peaceful and enjoyable trip but 20 minutes x 2 was taken up going through the lock system twice so did not leave much time n the river.  There is a good view of “The Cloef” viewing platform from the boat. Cool shady bikeways run along both sides of the river and would have been a better option.

Looking up at “The Cloef” from the boat cruise

Left the Stellplatz and headed a few kms to Orscholz where we ventured across the Treetop Walk Saarschleife – Cleof Atrium.   It is a 1250 m long wooden platform stretching high above the treetops and ending at the tower high on the hill. 

The view of “The Cloef” from the boardwalk

A walk around the circular five storey boardwalk of the Cleof Atrium takes you to the top platform with the most unbelievable views of the river loop and the countryside in Germany, France and Luxembourg and mountains and villages in the distance.  Really worth the €10.

The view from “The Cloef” over 3 countries and the river loop

Our campsite for two nights:  Reisemobilpark Saarburg – GPS 49.601131N    6.596750E

Didn’t realise until we arrived here that we visited this village last October. 

The Stellplatz is one of the better ones with really wide pitches and some bordering the river under shady trees – you have to get in early to get one of these and I think you can book ahead.  It is about a 2km walk along the river to one of the prettiest villages we have stayed in. 

The walk along the river to town gives you a panoramic view of the Old Town cascading down the hill on the other side with row upon row of beautiful three storey Bavarian homes, a large cathedral, the Town Hall and the castle with the highest vantage point, providing a stunning picture.

Across the bridge you follow the cobbled stone streets up into the centre where a thunderous cascading waterfall splits the Main Street. Little bridges take you from one side to the other where each spare spot is taken up with outdoor restaurants.     Flower pots are full of coloured flowers which makes for stunning photos.

Waterfall and restaurants

After lunch we walked back along the river took off the bikes and rode for the rest of the afternoon visiting quaint little villages along the way.  The bikeways here go forever on both sides of the river.  I am just so thrilled at being able to have this biking experience but again sad that I didn’t learn much earlier in life.

Hot and thirsty we returned and sat in the little garden at the Stellplatz where they offer drinks, cakes and coffee until around 6.30pm – really a great Stellplatz.

Took off on the bikes again straight after breakfast but in the opposite direction and on the other side of the river.  Heavy dark clouds appeared on the horizon so after stopping for coffee and cake at a small waterfront clubhouse peddled home in light rain.  Very refreshing.

 

2018/06/22 – Germany – Stuttgart, Porsche and more

Friday 22nd June, Saturday 23rd June, Sunday 24th June

On the bucket list was a visit to Stuttgart to visit the Porsche Museum.  Found an ideal spot in Park 4 Night only a short walk away but the five spots there were already taken by cars.   This whole area is a motorhome nightmare with very few places to even turn around, let alone park.

We stopped in frustration and phoned Porsche directly.   Normally you have to phone ahead or go online to book a place in the Moho area.   We received directions on the phone to this area which is chained and with a password number to enter.

In the main street outside the Porsche Museum

The street name we were given took us down a one way single lane road beside a railway line.  On one side, cars were parked nose to tail the whole way leaving just enough room for one car to get by.   The bad news was that there was a half metre drop off on the opposite side beside the railway line.  We couldn’t turn around so had an extremely nervous ride where we were only cms between the parked cars on one side and the half metre drop on the other side.

Outside the Porsche Museum

Got to the end with no sign of the chained fence we needed.  Asked a few people who really didn’t help much so no tick in the box for this  bucket list item.  Not sure where we went wrong but the scary drive was enough  to make us move on.   Didn’t go back the same way!!! 

The Driver phoned the Porsche Sales Department and cancelled his order for the 911 Careera Turbot

Very impressive buildings as we drove by and took a couple of photos.  Hundreds of people everywhere and traffic was at a standstill even in the middle of a working day.

Ended up being a very long drive today so were extremely happy to find a place and settle down for a while.

Our campsite for three nights:  An Der Carnot’schen Mauer, Germersheim – GPS 49.219959N   8.377730E

Had three wonderful relaxing days here in this super little town.

The campsite is about five minutes walk to town in one direction and the same to the mighty Rhine river in the other.    Very pretty spot with great big beautiful shady trees and a credit to this town for supplying such a great spot.

Visited the tourist office first thing and armed with maps headed into town. This old garrison town is surrounded by a fortified wall with two impressive moated entry structures on two sides of the town.  It has its own military jail, garrison hospital and commandant’s headquarters still standing but now used for many other purposes.  Not a very large central town area but some beautiful parks.

One of the gates in the fortified wall

This area is famous for several bike ways, the most picturesque is the Veloroute which runs for 110 Kms with much of it along the Rhine.  The most scenic is the stretch from this town south to Worth.

Germersheim streetscape

Our longest bike ride took us from Germersheim to Leimersheim – a return distance of about 30kms. 

Our drink/food stop while cycling near Germersheim

We took a wrong turn which added a few extra kms to the ride.  Rewarded ourselves with a long stop at a small restaurant on the Rhine near the Ziegelei Museum where the Navigator was introduced to a Radler – like our shandy in a bottle.  Just what the doctor ordered – may never have a straight beer again 😄

Did several rides over these days each time finishing with the 10 km ride back to this restaurant where you could sit and watch the boats go by.

Sunday was festival day where the local African people set up a stage on the waterfront and entertained the crowd with some of their local music and dancing.  Quite a large contingent of Africans here.

African group performing on the Rhine

Highly recommended for cyclists (even the less experienced like the navigator).

Monday 25th & Tuesday 26th June

Happy birthday Chris.  Good to see you have a great friend in to create a feast for a King (and queen) on your special day.  Hi Eli – my you are growing up so quickly and talking so well now.

Did not travel very far today and after leaving the Black Forest and all its beautiful scenery we are now bordering the Pfalzer Forest which is renowned for its vineyards.

There are tons of Weingut’s (vineyards) to choose from to stay and it was difficult making a final choice. 

Our campsite for two nights:  Wengut Eberle, Burrweiler – GPS 49.246712N   8.080760E

This site only has three spots but the area set aside for Mohos includes tables and chairs in a beautiful fruit tree garden setting overlooking acres and acres of vineyards and little villages dotted everywhere in the distance. 

Grapes, grapes and more grapes at Burrweiler

The village a short walk away is very small but quaint and has only a couple of small shops.  Think Monday is their “ruhig day” (closed rest day) as we did not sight a person anywhere.   The family here were very helpful and just lovely.  Electricity is included in the small cost (though we do not use it as our solar panels more than fill our batteries without it each day).  No other services except Internet which is super fast and a real bonus for the Driver.    I become an Internet widow when on the odd occasion we get a good internet service.

Ziggy is happy again as she had a super spring clean on the inside.  Fortunately she is really only one room – but a very well used room.

Lots of reading, internet and taking in the magic scenery for most of the two very relaxing days.

 

2018/06/18 – Germany – architecture – old v new

Monday 18th June – Germany

Our campsite for tonight:  Reisemobilstellplatz, Geisingen – GPS 47.919868N  . 8.649630E

Have not written bullet points for our blog for a few days, so the memory of some of the next few entries may be a little shorter than normal.  We try to do bullet points at the end of each day and find if we don’t, then we have to rely on memory which these days, given the amount we see each day is not reliable.

This campsite is really well laid out with lots of space and grassed areas separating every two pitches.  Lots of greenery and trees which gave it a very lush relaxed feel.

Explored this small village in no time at all.   Not a lot of photo opportunities but a really great overnight spot.

Tuesday 19th June

Made a special happy birthday call to my little brother Mike before heading off on the bikes to explore the many villages in the area.  Happy Birthday little bro!  Judging by the cake on Facebook – well celebrated.

View whilst cycling from Geisingen to Zimmern with Blackforest in the background

Bikeways here were fabulous and saw lots in the couple of hours while passing through a few smaller villages.  Quite a few car dealer places along the way where there were cars with camouflaged paint jobs and fake body parts – new test vehicles my driver tells me, were in a number of car yards so had to stop to check them out.   No badging on these so you could not make out the car type but suspected they were Mercedes, BMW and Audi.

Camouflaged cars

Left the campsite after lunch expecting an hour’s drive to our next destination.  Partial highway closures caused gridlock on the highway directing all traffic (including massive trucks) through a town.  Several roads converged into one intersection where the traffic lights caused pandemonium.

Our campsite for tonight:  Stellplatz Freiburg Im Breisgau, Freiburg – GPS 47.999779N   7.825700E

Four hours later we arrived, very hot under the collar and frustrated.

This is an old Stellplatz but its walking proximity to Freiburg – around 20 minutes to Old Town, made it worthwhile.  Not many places left by the time we arrived so unfortunately we had a choice of only a couple of very hot and sunny spots.

Wednesday 20th June

Straight into Old Town first thing after breakfast.  Beautiful shaded tree lined streets made the walk pleasurable with an amazing school on the way for lots of photos.  Obviously a church school with two massive spires featuring coloured mosaic tiles.

School with beautiful twin spires – does not even get a mention in the tourist brochure

This town is a bikers Mecca with its cycling infrastructure boasted as being unequalled anywhere else in Germany.  We passed by a bicycle parking station -three levels high with a restaurant on the top floor. 

A multi level bicycle parking station complete with licensed restaurant and cafe

In the City, Bicycles were parked everywhere at any post available – literally thousands of them and where normally you would need to look out for cars, here in the city, cyclists are the major hazard.

Part of the University opposite the Jewish Synagogue destroyed by the Nazis in 1938

The Old town’s feature is the cathedral – Freiburg Minster – building of the Blessed Virgin –  with its main tower 116 metres high.  What a wonderful structure taking up a whole block with a large square all the way around it.  Market stalls selling fresh fruit, deli items, food and of course souvenirs took up every spare spot in the square.  Unfortunately the cathedral was closed for several hours with a special mass being held inside.

A view of the Freiburg Minster

Really worth the few hours we spent here going down the many small cobbled streets where leather shops in particular are a feature with so many beautiful bags and shoes to choose from.

Another view of the Freiburg Minster

Left the campsite in the late afternoon as we did not want to stay in our hot spot for the rest of the day – it was around 30 degrees in the shade.

Our campsite for tonight:  Wohnmobilpark Ortenau, Meissenheim – GPS 48.416000N   7.777390E

Another well laid out small Stellplatz in a small town.   Lots of greenery and trees which we welcomed and soon found a shady spot to settle in.    This is a popular spot and soon all spaces in the main section were taken up.  There is an additional overflow area which is just beautiful with a feature being a large communal fire pit and lots of interesting artefacts scattered around.  No shade though and would be a great winter spot.

Bike trails lead out from the back of the Stellplatz linking up to bike trail down the Rhine bikeways – not today though as it was too hot with no breeze at all.

This town has the most amazing modern looking Rathaus (town hall) we have ever seen.  Most town halls are in historic or old buildings but this one was right out there.

Meissenheim Town Hall

A pretty little town but not a lot to do apart from the bike ride.

Another view of the Town Hall

Thursday 21st June

Still hot today so opted to move on without  bike ride.

Our campsite for tonight:  Parking Lehwiese, Schiltach – GPS 48.290871N   8.343960E

This village was highly recommended by our campsite friends (Gunnar and Anna) we met at the campsite near the Eagles Nest.

Rated as one of the top ten most beautiful villages in Germany, this village was truly so picturesque.   The campsite is gratis and mostly taken up with local cars so arrive by 8am or after 6pm.  A tight entry point into the parking area but really worthwhile as it is set in a beautiful grassed area bordering a crystal clear shallow pebbled running stream.

Our view of Schiltach from Ziggy

Views from the car park look across to the Old Town which we couldn’t wait to explore on foot (too hilly for bikes).

Only a short stroll across a beautiful old bridge where on both sides of the bridge, colourful flower boxes were in full bloom. 

Such character

Through and along narrow cobbled streets where every three storey Bavarian home was built in the 17th century. 

Beautiful old buildings

Every home featured brightly coloured window frames with contrasting window shutters – greens, blues, yellows, reds – every conceivable colour. 

Schiltach architecture

The stream ran through the middle of Old Town, again with quaint little pedestrian bridges with the flower boxes.  Everything is so well kept and clean and pretty.

Exciting cobbled streets

It is difficult to describe how picturesque this village is – but should be high on the list to visit.

Looks like a great place for a quiet ale